AUTUMN MAGIC IN CITTA DELLA PIEVE

21 Reasons why Autumn in Umbria is a wonderful season to visit.

Umbria shines as a year-round holiday haven, but it is during autumn that its beauty reaches a whole new level. The countryside transforms into a breathtaking canvas of red, gold, and bronze, while the air buzzes with the exhilaration of grape and olive harvests, truffle hunting, and mushroom foraging. The autumn months bring a vibrant tapestry of harvest time events known as Sagras, dedicated to celebrating the region’s culinary wonders, including freshly pressed olive oil, exquisite white truffles, chestnuts, pumpkins, and succulent porcini mushrooms. Citta della Pieve, with its abundance of delightful eateries showcasing innovative ways to savour these seasonal delicacies, becomes an enchanting gateway to experience it all. If you’re considering a visit to Umbria this autumn, or simply seeking a fresh and invigorating adventure, here are 21 compelling reasons to embark on this delicious autumnal journey.

1. The weather. Autumn finds us enjoying warm days and cool evenings and for those who find Italy’s sweltering summers tough to bear it is altogether more pleasant. The sunny, warm days mean you can finally enjoy the afternoons, go sightseeing and explore all that Umbria has to offer without having to dash through the blistering sunshine from shady spot to shady spot.

2. The changing colors. Autumn in Umbria offers up a natural rainbow of foliage, from hillsides dotted with silvery olive trees to valleys of reddish vineyards and forests of orange, yellow and evergreen. There are a myriad of trails that pass through the wooded forests between Città della Pieve, Paciano and Panicale that can be biked or hiked as well as driving the serpentine mountain roads where views are spectacular – And for those with no fear of heights you can even take a ride in a Hot air balloon .

3. Accommodation: Outside of year-round hot spots most accommodation prices will plunge as soon as Italian children go back to school in the second week of September which makes the late-summer/fall an ideal time to visit for those who are budget conscious or prefer to avoid the crowds.

4. The thermal springs. The cooler months are the perfect time to visit the nearby thermal mineral springs or indulge in an ancient spa treatment both of which have been sought out for centuries for their natural healing powers. Rest and rejuvenate by spending a day outdoors soaking in thermal pools or be invigorated by hydro jets in the warm sulfur-rich waters of San Casciano dei Bagni at Fonteverde Resort Or in Chianiano Terme at Piscine Termali Theia, They also have wonderful eateries and a comprehensive menu of modern and ancient spa treatments and both are just a 30 minute picturesque drive from Città della Pieve.

5. The vendemmia, or wine harvest. Umbria has a number of wine trails that are ideal to travel during harvest time, among them the various routes of the Strada del Sagrantino, from where you can visit such medieval towns and villages as Montefalco and Bevagna. Stopping at top vintners in the area like Arnaldo Caprai and Cantina Scacciadiavoli to sample the robust Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso wines. On the Strada dei Vini Etrusco Romana from Orvieto to Narni (about 63 kilometers), you’ll find vineyards producing Orvieto, the region’s well-known white, and Rosso Orvietano DOCs, and do make time to visit the ancient hill towns of Orvieto, Amelia and Narni along the way. Alternatively, discover the magic of Strada del Vino Colli del Trasimeno with the rolling hills frescoed by the famous painter Pietro Vannucci known as “Il Perugino”. Lago Trasimeno has been known for its beauty since Roman times but now it’s also know for its world class wine. Along this route you can visit the areas famed wineries like Madrevite, Poggio Bertaio and The Lamborghini Estate to name a few, not only will you taste exceptional wines but you will see some stunning views.

6. The olive harvest. Visit local producers during an event called Frantoi Aperti held over four weekends in November. With Frantoi Aperti you can see the olive mills at work; sample the olio novello (new oil), usually slathered over crisp toasted bread by an enthusiastic farmers wife. Or join an olive harvest or cookery class. And at any time of year you can travel the Fascia Olivata (olive belt), a hilly olive-tree covered area reaching for 35 kilometers between Assisi and Spoleto, which like the wine roads passes through many hill towns and villages that are well worth a visit. Among them Trevi, dubbed the “capital of olive oil production”—Oils here are renowned for their finesse and flavor. Closer to Città della Pieve you’ll find the Pan’Olio Festival in Panicale. For more information about the harvest and extra virgin oil production click HERE.

7. The truffles. Umbria packs quite a truffle punch as it produces the most black truffles of any region in Italy. And its rich landscape and beautiful forests provide a perfect backdrop for an autumnal ‘truffle hunt’ into-the-woods. The hunts begin around mid-October with the appearance of the the Tartufo Nero Pregiato di Norcia–the prized winter black truffle of Norcia. Then in November, the best of the best appear, Tartufo Bianco, (white truffles). The area’s where the truffles are found are often a well-kept secret, however if you would like to venture off on a hunt there are many tours available, although there are no guarantees that you will be lucky enough to find this prized product. If you are interested in a hunt go see the boys at Seven Cafe in Monteleone D’Orvieto just minutes from Città della Pieve or a little further a field just above Perugia in the wooded estate winery Chiesa del Carmine.

8. Where the boars are. The Cinghiale (wild boar) population is huge in central Italy and they love truffles! These beasts will dig huge trenches to get at delicious roots, bulbs and of course truffles often destroying other crops in the process. The local government attempts to control the boar population with organized annual hunts. And as you may run into a group of hunters on your travels here’s my top-tip – Watch out as the hunters are not professionally trained and are as unpredictable as the hunted so safety first – if possible divert to an alternate route. You can try cinghiale, (A more gamey version of pork) at many of our local Umbrian restaurants and deli’s, dishes like pici with sugo al cinghiale, delicious stews (spezzatino), salami and even sausages.

9. Foragers Paradise. After the first few rainfalls since the summer heat amazing wild edibles begin to sprout in fields, forests and at roadsides, So if you are out driving and the car in front of you suddenly screeches to a halt don’t be surprised if there is no monument or landscape to admire, they’ve stopped to forage for wild greens known as “erba di campo”, aponzoli, pimpinella, fennel, caccialepre, wild chicory, crispigno, or dandelion greens. Or perhaps you’ll notice a car randomly parked on the roadside its occupants foraging in the woods to find mushrooms —porcini, chanterelles, black trumpets or Caesar’s (Ovuli) to name a few. But remember not any old mushroom will do! So if you’re tempted to go foraging always check with a local that the ones you find are actually edible. There are also many guided foraging excursions on offer in the area. Find out more Here.

10. The saffron harvest. Saffron has been cultivated in Umbria since the Middle Ages and in October the saffron grown in and around the Umbrian towns of Cascia, Città della Pieve, Spoleto and Gubbio is harvested. To coincide with the harvest there is an annual festival and market (ZAFFERIAMO) in Città della Pieve in October, (This year 2023, from the 21st to 23rd). Local restaurants and vendors create dishes that feature saffron like: risotto alla Milanese, saffron beer, wine and cookies.

Saffron has been cultivated in Città della Pieve since the 13th century and is by far, the most valuable spice in the world today. A kilo of saffron costs, depending on the quality, 3,000-14,000 Euros. Saffron is used as a seasoning as well as pigment to dye fabrics and paint, and for medical ailments like fatigue and weight loss and even as a deodorant and aphrodisiac. Top-tip, The saffron for sale during the annual festival is world-class and offered at an unbeatable price so for people who love to cook – You can offset the cost of your trip by purchasing saffron direct from the producers.

11. Chestnuts Roasting. I hear groans of discontent when chestnuts are mentioned. However, I can tell you that the chestnuts here in Italy are not the dry, burnt offerings hawked on the streets of major cities in wintertime. In fact Italian chestnuts, especially those from Umbria are a completely different, sweet and smoky, with a creamy texture and a burnished shell cooked just enough to steam the nut without burning it to a bitter crisp. This seasonal delight is occasionally sold roasted but much more often found raw and whole, sold in outdoor markets and from the backs of trucks parked along country highways. They are delicious roasted on an open fire or as the main ingredient for a wonderful soup or crumbled into a pumpkin risotto. You can discover the joys of the Umbrian chestnut at the annual festival in Piegaro just 20 minutes from Città della Pieve, the festivities begin on October the 7th and run through the 16th (2022).

12. Season of Sagra. One of the best things about visiting Umbria/Tuscany in the autumn is having the opportunity to attend a Sagra, A type of harvest festival or fair centred around one particular food or drink local to the town, (not just A Potato Festival but La sagra della patata macchiaiola) or even a single dish (La Sagra del Crostino). These events are organised and staffed by the townsfolk who take great pride in their presentation. A sagra could last for several weeks or a single day, they are both food festivals and fundraisers and usually revolve around a deeply important competition, race or event of some kind. Locals in medieval dress can be seen be pushing frogs on wheelbarrows around the village square at speed, rolling hay bales up a hill, racing donkeys or wielding chainsaws. Entry is always free. So come and get your Sagra on, you won’t be disappointed. For a full list of Sagre click the link-SAGRE UMBRIA 2022.

13. Vino Novello. While most wines are released at the beginning of the year and have spent time aging, here in Umbria they have a the tradition of Vino Novello (similar to Beaujolais Nouveau), released annually the first week of November. These wines are meant meant to be drunk young and within a few months of fermentation, often accompanied by roasted chestnuts. The Vino Novello production is celebrated with Cantine Aperti (open cellars) where vineyards will often have bonfires, live music and of course delicious food.

14. Markets and farm visits. One of the wonderful things about rural Umbria is the local Farmers Markets which bring harvest bounty right to your doorstep. So if you see a market happening, my advice is to park up and be dazzled by the mountains of fresh fruit and vegetables. Another wonderful fall treat is to visit local farms such as Quintosapore Where you can explore their vegetable gardens and learn about their amazing heirloom crops, After which you can enjoy a delicious lunch whilst enjoying sweeping views of Città della Pieve and Lake Trasimeno. Or for apple lovers, Podere Fontecorino An apple farm where you can choose from their great variety of apples all freshly picked or purchase one of their many apple products like pure apple juice or cider filtered and unfiltered, dried apple chips, vinegar or even an apple prosecco. Or perhaps a pumpkin patch is more your style, if so head to Pumpkin Umbria this farm just outside Spoleto has something for all the family from a hay labyrinth and pumpkin carving lessons to dinner with scarecrows and cooking classes, this makes it perfect for a Halloween excursion.

15. Emphasis on wines and harvest cuisine. Once you have gathered an assortment of delectables from local markets and farms, and for wine enthusiasts who appreciate the infusion of wine into their dishes, it is time for a comforting autumnal banquet. Umbrian gastronomy showcases a myriad of effortlessly prepared dishes like gnocchi with Sagrantino cream sauce, lentil soup (zuppa di lenticchie) seasoned with bay leaf and Sangiovese, tender braised pork in Sagrantino, and poached pears in Sangiovese. A culinary delight hailing from Foligno is salsicce all’uva, a braised dish combining Umbrian sausages with wine grapes. Among the harvest desserts to relish, Roccetti deserves a special mention — a typical cookie from Cannara that incorporates grape skins into its batter. Autumnal dishes unrelated to vines encompass soups like Italian barley soup (Zuppa di orzo) with wild greens, and chickpea-based pasta e ceci with maltagliati (irregularly-shaped pasta). Noteworthy are the distinctive game dishes from Umbria known as cacciagione, such as wild boar (cinghiale), wild hare (lepre), pheasant (fagiano), and small birds (uccellini), often presented as a flavorful stew (stufato) paired with a generous glass of Montefalco red wine, complemented by fragioli beans and crusty bread. For a comprehensive overview of my preferred traditional Umbrian dishes, please refer to my post – THE UMBRIAN TABLE.

16. Eateries offering seasonal fare. If a kitchen is not to hand or cooking is not your forte then be assured you’ll find most seasonal offerings throughout the regions restaurants, osteria and trattorias. In our town of Città della Pieve you’ll find local favourites Bruno Coppetta, Taverna del Perugino, Locanda della Pica and Bistrot del Duca all serving delicious seasonal fare. If your looking for something with a modern twist on classic Umbrian cuisine then visit Molino 49 or Crocus a new farm to table restaurant on the outskirts of town. Whilst away from Pieve, Seven Cafè feature fresh truffles in several of their dishes. Also Libera Lepre – Osteria & Cantina part of the Centumbria family in the town of Agnello are the poster child for sustainability and produce almost all the ingredients on their farm for their bistro and restaurants. Their baked goods are refined and outstanding and alone worth the trip. A new addition to the farm-scene just outside Perugia is Flora Eat and Shop. This farm is immersed in the greenery of the beautiful Umbrian landscape and is dedicated to the enhancement of organic, zero-km and typical Umbrian products. They have created there own garden of eden an oasis of peace, where you can buy products from the garden, wine, ‘oil, jams, honey and much more, Or linger and visit their dining room to explore their menu of typical and innovative Umbrian dishes. Top tip – Some restaurants will charge for truffle by weight – so do check the gram price before you order.

17. Take To The Hills. Fellow hikers, bikers and nature lovers will welcome autumn’s cooler temperatures. If you enjoy experiencing the sunshine without the searing heat of summer then this is the perfect time to explore the many trekking pathways, rolling hills and mountain landscapes on foot or a bike or E Bike. (See my Italian bike club for more great locations to pedal)

18. The ceramic trail of Umbria. Umbria is one of the few regions in Italy that can boast five towns with an ancient tradition of ceramic production: Deruta, Gualdo Tadino, Gubbio and Orvieto, and the coolness of Autumn makes a visit to their ceramic kilns more appealing. Of all the traditional crafts, the production of terracotta and majolica is the one for which Umbria is most well-known globally and you’ll find the major majolica industry in Città di Castello and Umbertide. Visit our own ceramic lab TERRARTE in Città della Pieve, to discover unique, whimsical hand painted ceramics and perhaps purchase a special souvenir from your visit. For more info click here www.terrarte.com.

19. Gallery Hopping. On the odd occasion that you encounter a foggy, grey or rainy day perhaps visit one of the many galleries in Umbria. Like the rest of Italy, Umbria is rich in art and culture, so inclement weather can give you the perfect opportunity to go to a museum, visit an art galley or handicraft exhibition. Here in Città della Pieve you can marvel at beautiful medieval fresco’s by Perugino, or explore the varied art galleries such as Spazio Kossuth, Centro di Cultura Fotografica and Il Giardino dei Lauri to name a few. Other museums not to be missed are the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria and Palazzo dei Consoli and Museo Civico in Perugia.

20. And don’t forget the chocolates! In Autumn as we layer up for winter its the perfect time to indulge in all those calorie laden treats we deny ourselves throughout the summer. And in nearby Perugia you’ll find the International headquarters of the well-known chocolate firm, Perugina, famous for its chocolate and hazelnut confection, Baci. (You can book a chocolatier course at the Perugina School of Chocolate.) And in October from the 13trh to 22rd,(2023) there’s even more chocolate to devour when the 27th edition of Eurochocolate comes to town. This festival offers numerous events, cooking classes and of course opportunities to sample scrumptious ‘guilt-free’ chocolates from the many producers in attendance.

21. Grove Cottage. Although you can stay in our recently renovated cottage anytime of the year, it’s only autumn when you can experience the surrounding forests in all their colorful glory. Or be moved by the early morning fog as it rolls magically across the valley below, or perhaps take part in an olive harvest in the surrounding groves where locals are always ready to welcome helping hands. The cottage is tranquil but only as short walk from the lively historic town center. And with so many activities on offer in Città della Pieve and its surrounds we are happy to help ensure you have an itinerary packed with harvest delights.

BOOK YOUR STAY @ GROVECOTTAGEUMBRIA.COM

Join us to experience the green heart of Italy turn to gold this Autumn and enjoy the very best this season has to offer your mind, body and spirit.

Or if this autumn time does not permit you to come- we do hope you’ll visit our wonderful part of the world another time and choose our GROVE COTTAGE.

Buon Autunno