21 COLLECTION,  BIKING,  GUIDES,  TRAVEL,  UMBRIAN TALES

TRAVEL WAYS: ECO GUIDE TO TRAVEL IN ITALY

PLANES,TRAINS, AND BICICLETTE.

Spring is in the air, spurring us to dream of warm-weather adventures, so in this article, I thought I’d share all the newest, fun, easy, and eco-friendly ways to explore Italy and Europe from right here in our beautiful outpost in Umbria.

Now, Citta della pieve may be a rural delight of rolling green hills, olive groves, and dramatic ravines, but that does not mean that it’s difficult to get to or travel from! We are just a stones throw from the major A1 autostrada that links the North and South, and the train stations of Chuisi and Fabro give you easy access to the airports of Rome, Florence, and one of the busiest ports in Europe, Civitavecchia. Plus, our local airport (PEG), with flights to and from many European destinations, is only a short drive from our Centro Storico, all of which makes Citta della Pieve the perfect place to call home if you are planning a visit to central Italy.

DEPARTING FROM PLATFORM…

Now, if you ask any experienced traveller for their favourite method of travel in Italy, you may be surprised to learn that the train is usually the most popular response. It has a certain romantic allure, offering time to think and reflect as you gaze upon ancient hilltop Borgo’s or sprawling towns, or perhaps the picturesque coastline, or through a dramatic mountainscape or rolling hills and past shimmering lakes, fields of poppies, or golden sunflowers. Yes, there are also amazing historic towns and cities to visit, but it’s all about the landscape! And the best way to see it is by train.

If you’re from a country that doesn’t have a great train system or where the train isn’t a primary method of transport, then know this: The Italian train network is fantastic and far-reaching, stitching together the country track by track. Even off-the-beaten-path towns will usually be served by one line or another, even if their’station’ is simply a single platform with no amenities. And whether requiring one or several connections, you’ll be able to go from pretty much anywhere to pretty much everywhere in the country. By train, you can even get right into the heart of the floating city of Venice and onto the island of Sicily. And let’s not forget that choosing to go by train in 2022 offers a more sustainable travel option that will deepen and enhance your Italian experience in a way that no cheap flight or highway can do. And as an added bonus for the more athletic, you can even bring your bike and accompany it in a dedicated carriage.

THE CHIUSI CONNECTION.

From Chiusi, Citta della Pieve’s closest train station, which is approximately 15 minutes away, you can literally go anywhere in Italy; lakes, mountains, towns, and cities are within easy reach. You can venture north to Reggio Emilia, Bologna, Ferrara, and Verona, or south to Rome, Naples, and Calabria, to name a few. If you are planning a car-free trip, there are taxis at the station and excellent local bus service to and from Citta della Pieve. If you are wanting to rent a car, there are several agencies opposite the station. I would recommend an AUTOMOBLILI SACAR which is a little further away but still doable on foot, as they have the best rates.

In 2019, in response to the increased demand for faster railway connections in our area, Trenitalia introduced its high-speed trains, FRECCIAROSSA, from Terontola to Chianciano Terme. Now we have two new Frecciarossa connections, which allow you to travel to Rome and Florence in about an hour and Milan and Naples in less than three. The Frecciarossa trains are the best of the Italian rail system. These cutting-edge beauties are capable of reaching speeds of up to 300 km/h. And are equipped with WIFI, restaurant service (FrecciaBistrò), a free on-board entertainment portal (Le Frecce), and first, second, business, or executive class service. And unlike flying, where the disparity in cost between cabin classes is huge, on Trenitalia, at most, it’s 50 euros for an upgrade.

To discover more about the old town of Chiusi, click here. CENTRO STORICO DI CHIUSI

The other thing to note is that the TRENITALIA APP is easy to navigate and available to use in several languages. On the app, you can purchase tickets, get travel updates and alerts, and show the QR code for ticket validation, so there is no need to print anything. And if, by chance, you miss your train, you have a one-hour grace period to book a later service, so there is no need to stress. The app is readily available for all devices.

Paris for lunch.

In December 2021, Trenitalia announced that Frecciarossa would run from Milan to Paris. As the first European operator to move into the French railway market, Trenitalia will offer French as well as Italian passengers the chance to travel using the most sustainable, safe, and comfortable means of transport.

The journey is approximately 6-7 hours, just enough time to brush up on your French on Duolingo. Tickets start at a ridiculously low €29 in Standard Class and can be purchased on the Italian or French versions of the Trenitalia.com website, on the Trenitalia app, or at all ticket offices in Italian stations. What’s more, you can enjoy plenty of amenities on board, including comfy seats, free WiFi, reading lights, at-seat power sockets, and lots of luggage space. At present, there are two trains daily going to and from Paris Gare de Lyon and Milano Centrale, with stops at Lyon Part-Dieu, Chambéry, Modane, and Turin. In the near future, they will add a further three trains a day to and from Paris Gare de Lyon, Lyon Part-Dieu, and Lyon Perrache. E voila! LA VILLE LUMIERE (city of lights): here we come.

THE RETURN OF THE ORIENT EXPRESS.

Travelers with a spare 10,000 euros dreaming of an Italian getaway with an extra dose of glamour are in luck. After 46 years, The iconic Orient Express is making a grand return to Italy, where it will launch six lavish new train routes in 2023. Appropriately named “La Dolce Vita,” the luxury rail service’s new trains will cover 14 regions, primarily across Italy, offering scenic routes across postcard-worthy destinations such as Tuscany and the Alps. A stopover in Rome will be included in every journey, where passengers on select routes will be able to experience Minerva, the very first Orient Express-branded hotel, scheduled to open in 2024. Passengers in Rome will also get access to the Orient Express executive lounge at Roma Termini Station.

Orient Express rendering 2
Courtesy of Dimorestudio

The train interiors will be brought back to life with the Milan-based design studio Dimorestudio. Their elegant interiors are inspired by the glamour of Italy in the 1960s and 1970s—a period in time Italians call “La Dolce Vita”—and by legendary Italian architects like Gio Ponti and Carlo Scarpa. The train boasts 12 deluxe cabins, 18 suites, a VIP ‘Honor Suite,’ and a fine dining restaurant featuring a lounge bar for live entertainment. There will be three additional international itineraries that will include routes through Paris, Istanbul, and Split, Croatia. With space for only 63 passengers across the 11 cars, the experience promises to be the epitome of exclusivity, luxury, and glamour. So mortgage your house and climb aboard!

Let’s sail away.

For those seafaring folk, we have options too. I know what you’re thinking—sailing from landlocked Umbria—but how is that possible? Well, the port of Civitavecchia is just an hour and a half drive or a two-hour train trip from Citta della Pieve. Located around 80km north-west of Rome, Civitavecchia, translated as ‘ancient town’, is a busy ferry, cruise, and cargo port. In the early 19th century, the Port of Civitavecchia was connected to Rome by rail, which brought a period of prosperity to the town. World War II put an end to this, bringing destruction to nearly three-quarters of the port. Subsequent reconstruction enlarged the port beyond its pre-war area. Today, Civitavecchia handles over 2,000 ferry and cruise ship movements per year for nearly 2 million passengers, making it the second busiest Mediterranean port. The wonderful thing about this port is that you can park your car or hop off the train right at the cruise terminal.

THE CIVITAVECCHIA EXPRESS.

Civitavecchia Express is the non-stop train for cruise travellers connecting the Port of Civitavecchia with Roma San PietroRoma Ostiense and Roma Termini stations with half-hourly service. The service was fully implemented last year, after a successful trial run in 2019, and now connects cruise passengers to the city with speed and ease. So you can catch the fast train to Rome, connect with the new Civitavecchia Express, and be on board ready to sail away in just under two hours.

DESTINATIONS FROM CIVITAVECCHIA.

cruises from civitavecchia

This popular port is home to many cruise lines, including Italian cruise companies MSC, Costa, and international Royal Caribbean, Oceania, Celebrity, and Regent Seven Seas. The prospective cruiser has a good variety of choices, with itineraries heading into the Western and Eastern Mediterranean, the Adriatic, and the Aegean Seas. In addition, Civitavecchia offers great ferry crossings, so you can easily connect with Sardinia, Tunisia, Sicily, & Spain, with crossings available to Olbia, Arbatax, Cagliari, & Porto Torres (in Sardinia), Tunis (in Tunisia), Palermo & Palermo Termini Imerese (in Sicily), Barcelona (in Spain), and Greece. Civitavecchia Ferry Crossings are operated by Grandi Navi Veloci, Grimaldi Lines & Tirrenia and depending on the time of year, you’ll find a choice of up to 12 ferry crossings daily, with sailing durations starting at 6 hours. They are the perfect way to travel with your own vehicle, camper, Vesper, or bike.

VOLARE-COME FLY AWAY.

Sometimes train or boat travel just won’t do, and flying is the best option. I know that, for me, flying can be stressful and soul-destroying, even on a short flight. That’s why, for me, our regional airport in Perugia (PEG) is heaven-sent.

Perugia airport is the little airport that could, and over the last couple of years, as more and more flight destinations have become available, it has even become better. Why? Because you can park your car right in front of the terminal for reasonable rates, you can access the departure lounge in minutes, and as there are only two main departure gates, the airport is rarely crowded, which makes leaving and returning a breeze, especially if you are traveling in the Schengen area, which means there is no passport control. You literally disembark the plane and are by your car in minutes. There are now four national and nine international routes in and out of the airport. Including a new British Airways route to London Heathrow starting May 26th through October. Plus, Ryanair now has ten routes planned for PEG, thanks to the introduction of new flights from Barcelona, Bucharest, Vienna, and Brindisi. Lastly, Transavia Airlines will connect us with the Netherlands, and Albawings will fly to Tirana.

Here is the complete list of dates and flights to help you plan your summer adventures to some of the most beautiful beaches in Italy or to a fabulous European city for a weekend getaway.
🇪🇸 BARCELONA – RYANAIR – From March 29-2 weekly flights
🇮🇹 BRINDISI – RYANAIR – From 1 May-2 weekly flights
🇬🇧 LONDON HEATHROW – BRITISH AIRWAYS – From 26th May-3 weekly flights
🇷🇴 BUCAREST – RYANAIR – From March 28-2 weekly flights
🇦🇹 VIENNA – RYANAIR – From June 3-2 weekly flights
🇮🇹 CAGLIARI – RYANAIR – From May 1- 2 weekly flights
🇮🇹 PALERMO – RYANAIR – Operative all year round with 2/3 weekly flights
🇮🇹 CATANIA – RYANAIR – Operative all year long with 3 weekly flights
🇬🇧 LONDRA STANSTED – RYANAIR – Operational all year round with 4/6 weekly flights
🇦🇱 TIRANA – ALBAWINGS – Operational all year round with 2 weekly flights
🇲🇹 MALTA – RYANAIR – Operative all year round with 2 weekly flights
🇳🇱 ROTTERDAM – TRANSAVIA – From April 23-2 weekly flights
🇧🇪 BRUXELLES CHARLEROI – RYANAIR – From March 29th-2 weekly flights
For more information, visit the airline sites or www.airport.umbria.it

THE PERFECT PITSTOPS.

If you are travelling from Citta della Pieve to Perugia airport, then I have some wonderful places that make for the perfect pitstop.

Bistrot, Bar, & Bakery.

Centumbrie’s pasty, bread, and cocktail bar is located in the ultramodern complex that houses not only it’s own flour and oil mill but a wonderful eatery that has live entertainment on the weekends. The master baker is Alessandra Chiappini, who gives life to excellent products using “unrefined, very fragrant” flours from the Centumbrie house. The bread is naturally leavened and of Northern European inspiration. They also have daily special bread like turmeric with walnuts and raisons to rye with charcoal. In addition to the wonderful bread, they have some amazing French-style pastries, as well as a huge range of vegan options, which, whilst unusual, makes sense as one of the pastry chef’s is vegan. And I have to say the vegan chocolate brioche bun is incredible. There are also aperitifs and options for a quick and tasty breakfast or lunch break. This is the perfect spot for a bite before or after your journey abroad, or just to pick up some delicious bread.

All you can eat Japanese.

This all-you-can-eat Japanese restaurant was introduced to us by friends, and we were so pleased they did. There are many of these Japanese-style eateries dotted around Perugia, usually owned by Chinese, meaning you get an interesting fusion that’s more reminiscent of Chinese than Japanese, but that is not the case here. Everything was cooked fresh to order and authentic. And the modern interior and self-ordering system through iPads affixed to each table make the process simple and seamless. You can order as much or as little as you wish, and at 16.90 for lunch or 24.90 for dinner, it’s a steal. There are also à la carte options for those with a smaller appetite. Which makes this a perfect pitstop if you are making the journey to Perugia or simply want something different for lunch or dinner.

A Michelin-starred eatery.

You would never guess that there was a gourmet restaurant tucked away in this commercial district on the outskirts of Perugia, but everything changes once you’re inside, where the bright dining room with its open-view kitchen and inspirational dishes combine influences from the chef’s international experience. All his dishes are created using locally sourced ingredients. The menu features a fresh take on Umbrian classics as well as many interesting fish dishes, including it’s name sake, the anchovy. Fans of natural and biodynamic wines will be delighted by the large range on offer. The other amazing thing is that it’s very reasonable, priced at around 40 euros per person. (But I don’t imagine that will last.) For bookings and to view the menu, just click here: THE FOLK or the link below to view their website.

VESPAS AND BIKES: electric or pedal power. 

If you want to feel like a character in a classic Italian film, you could either swim in a fountain or take a spin on a Vespa. The latter is the perfect way to explore Umbria’s varied landscape. With the ease of two wheels, you can venture along the winding serpentine mountain roads, buzz on ancient tracks over the undulating hills, or whizz around lake pathways, taking in all the majestic panoramas. You also have the freedom to pause wherever your heart desires or take a diversion to a pretty hilltop town or vineyard that piques your interest. A great place to hire your vespa is UMBRIA IN VESPA located in San Savino on Lake Trasimeno, a short drive from Citta della Pieve, where you can either opt to venture out on your own or join one of their many guided tours.

THE RISE OF THE RENTABLE E-BIKE.

The world of bike sharing has grown massively in the last couple of years with companies like RIDEMOVI which we used in Florence during our month-long stay (A MONTH OF MONDAYS) and is now operating in all the major Italian cities, from Rome to Milan and Padua, as well as other major European cities. RIDEMOVI’s aim is to make all cities more sustainable by changing the way people move about and improving the health and quality of urban life. Their system is so easy to use; you just download the app, choose a package, scan the bike’s barcode to unlock it, and away you go. The other great feature is dock-less parking, which allows you to drop off your bike at varied locations throughout the city. It’s smart and easy, and it better connects people with their communities and reduces the carbon footprint too. 

Even the municipal council of Chiusi has gotten into the act and approved the final project for the construction of three bike-sharing cycling stations, which should open this June (2022). The parking and charging points can accommodate up to six e-bikes (electric or assisted bikes) and are located in key areas of the Chiusi area: Chiusi-Chianciano Train Station, Piazza Dante in Chiusi Scalo, via Garibaldi in Chiusi Città (near the Casina dell’Acqua), and in proximity of Lake Chiusi. This means you’ll be able to hop off the train, hop onto a bike, and explore.

CITTA DELLA PIEVE’S IMMERSIVE E-BIKE TOUR.

Just minutes from the Centro storico of Citta della Pieve is the small town of Monteleone d’Orvieto, where you’ll find a lovely little cafe called SEVEN. This family business is run by two brothers, Andrea and Michele, who have transformed this humble little outpost that was previously run by their parents. Don’t be misled by the word cafe, as they offer a delicious array of mouthwatering dishes on their creative menu, often featuring fresh truffles sourced from their own farm.

The brothers also wanted a way for visitors to explore the breathtaking landscape of Umbria, taste the unique and delicious food and wine, and discover the many medieval villages, so they created self-guided e-bike tours. Their fleet of prestigious e-bikes (pedal-assisted bikes) allows you to easily traverse from one village to another, and their tours encompass everything from local ceramic making and yoga to wine and truffle tastings. The self-guided tours are accessible on your smart phone using the SEVEN APP and are available in several languages. It’s a wonderful way to explore our amazing area at your own leisure, get in some exercise, and afterwards enjoy a glass of wine or a delicious meal at the cafe. For further information, click here: SEVEN E-BIKE TOURS.

IN PIEDI.

If you do choose to come and stay in Citta della Pieve, or even if you live in the area, you should definitely check out the urban trekking tours that are available from our tourist office. They are a great way to explore this historic town and discover its secrets. The tours are offered every weekend; for information and reservations, contact the Tourist Office of the City of Pieve-The tours are available every weekend; reservations and further information can be obtained by contacting the City of Pieve’s Tourist Office at 0578 298840.

Start planning your spring getaways to and from our wonderful part of Italy. And don’t forget to book your stay at our picturesque Grove Cottage 

Boun viaggia tutti, Travel safely, and do let me know of your travels in the comments section below.

All postcard images are courtesy of the Italia Tourist Board and Touring Club Italia.

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