1. SARDEGNA: A TRIP TO BOUNTIFUL

PART I

“It is said that neither the Romans nor the Phoenicians, the Greeks or the Arabs have ever subdued Sardinia. It is outside the circuit of civilization.”

D. H. Lawrence, Sea and Sardinia, 1921

Sardegna is truly a trip to be bountiful. This was our second visit to the island in as many years, and it still captivated us with its wild hinterland, out-of-this-world beaches, and endearing eccentricities. Here, coastal drives thrill, prehistory puzzles, and four million sheep rule the countyside. The first thing that hits you is just how rugged it is, calling to mind the lush and mountainous islands of the South Seas or Hawaii. The second thing is the prickly pear cacti that dominate the landscape and outpopulate the humans and even the sheep. Sardinia is an alluring dichotomy, a world where natural beauty shines juxtaposed against piles of household rubbish left on the side of the road, and where the glitz and glamour of five-star resorts rub shoulders with poor mountain goat herders living in shacks and shanty’s. All combine to create a heady tapestry that makes this island simply fascinating.

THE SEA.

Situated in the Mediterranean Sea, Sardinia is the second-largest Italian island. Though the ultimate rulers of this region are the whims of the sea,. Here you’ll find some of the most delightful, unspoilt, and pristine beaches anywhere in the world. Yes, the sand really is that white and powdery, and the sea is a myriad of clear blues with colorful tropical fish within a stonesthrow of the shoreline.

Imagine dropping anchor in Costa Smeralda’s scalloped bays, where celebrities and supermodels frolic in emerald waters; playing castaway in the Golfo di Orosei’s coves, where sheer cliffs ensure seclusion; or sailing to La Maddalena’s archipelogo of granite islands. Whether you’re walking barefoot across the dunes on the wave-lashed Costa Verde or lounging in the Costa Rei’s silky smooth bays, one thing is for sure: you’ll never want to leave.

THE MOUNTAINS.

Those who prefer the mountains can explore the area of Gennargentu, the vastest mountain range in Sardinia, with its peculiar moonlike landscape, snow-capped peaks, and serpentine roads that hug the mountain edge like a theme park thrill ride. Remarkably, even in mid-summer at these lofty elevations, the temperature drop is at least 10–15 degrees cooler than the shore. This region is rich in flora and fauna, with its mouflons (wild sheep), golden eagles, Sardinian deer, and lots of cattle. It’s not at all unusual to see cows just meandering along the road or munching grass on the verge. A word of warning though: the animals in these parts have right of way. As you traverse the mountains, you’ll come across towns that seem to be carved out of the sheer cliff, seemingly clinging on to the mountainside for dear life, while others languish precariously against the base of a sheer drop as if daring the cliff to fall.

THE HISTORY.

Sardinia’s strategic position and rich mineral reserves have brought a tsunami of power-hungry invaders to its shores over the centuries, and its rugged, impenetrable mountains have attracted everyone from Stone Age men to 19th-century bandits looking for a hidden refuge. Thanks to a certain inward-looking pride and nostalgic spirit, the Sardi’s have not allowed time and the elements to erase their history.

When you travel anywhere around the island of Sardinia, you’ll eventually come across the ruins of seemingly isolated circular or honeycomb-shaped stone towers—these stone towers are called Nuraghe—scattered all over the territory.

These monuments are unique, testifying to an ancient culture that, though it endured from the 15th to the 16th centuries B.C., still rains rather mysteriously. The Nuragic constructions were built using huge blocks of stone and were developed around a central cone-shaped ‘lookout’ tower. The higher the tower, the greater the strength and power of the occupants. These are very accessible archaeological sites where it is possible to grasp the archaic charm of ancient rituals and domestic life. Travelers can easily dip into the many rich chapters of the island’s past by exploring the numerous tombs, towers, forts, and churches.

FOOD AND WINE.

This paradise is not only made up of nature but also of food, people, and folklore. Sardi’s take pride in their traditions and heritage and are genuinely excited to share it all with you. Food tells the unique story of this territory: Very few places in the world can boast that their food is as authentic as it is in Sardinia. The quality of the produce is amazing, even though the produce in my home town of Umbria is fabulous. In Sardinia, it benefits from strong African, Middle Eastern, Spanish, and French influences that enliven the flavors of the raw produce in a very ‘un-mainland’ Italian way. And to keep your palate refreshed throughout your meal, I recommend their side dish called Pinzimonio, which is just seasonal fresh vegetables such as celery, radish, cucumber, and carrots that you eat with your hands, served in large pieces over ice.

This island is a culinary one-off, with distinct takes on pasta, bread, sweets, and cheeses—including maggoty casu marzu pecorino—that can only be found stashed away in barns in the mountainous interior.

Like many of the mainland regions of Italy, Sardinia has its own variety of wine, including my favorite, Vermentino. This crisp, minerally dry white is said to obtain these qualities from the hard volcanic earth of Sardinia. This lovely wine pairs well with all the delectable Sardi seafood or is perfect for aperitivo. The other famous wine in the region is Cannonau. This light, elegant red has bold, deep red berry flavours and spicey, earthy notes, which work wonderfully with all the hearty pasta and grilled meat dishes on offer.

In addition to the wine, Sardina is known for “Mirto,” a popular liqueur made from the myrtle plant. This bold after-dinner drink is made by macerating a combination of myrtle berries and leaves and letting steep for many days. The result is a deep blue-purple liqueur that has a minty taste. Legend has it that, long ago, Sardinian bandits introduced this process to the nearby island of Corsica, where the liqueur has also been considered a traditional drink. Nowadays, you’ll be offered it at the end of every meal, and it would be rude not to partake.

Another thing you may have offered is “filu ‘e ferru,” or “iron wire” in English. This typical spirit of Sardinia is clear as water but has an alcohol content above 40 proof, a sure fire way to your mind and set your inside ablaze. In some areas of Sardinia, it is also known as “abbardente,” which literally means “water that burns.”. This digestive is perfect to sup after a bountiful sardi meal as it facilitates digestion and cheers the spirit.

There are many traditional Sardi dishes to be found throughout this bella Isola. All of them are steeped in thousands of years of history and are prepared in the same time-honoured fashion as they were centuries ago.

Some of these classic delights include: roasted suckling pig (Porceddu or Maialetto) cooked over open coals with mytrle leaves; lamb, goat, and donkey ragu; char-grilled eels; crustaceans; sea bass; sea bream; and tuna cooked in a thousand ways. Sardinia, like most other regions on the Italian mainland, has its own style of pasta called fregula. The North African influence is obvious in fregula—iit’s like a large-grained couscous and is made from coarsely ground semolina. You find it in soups, but it can also serve as a base for conventional pasta sauces. Without doubt, though, it’s best when it’s cooked in a seafood broth with fresh clams and mussels. Other pasta dishes include spaghetti with fresh sea urchins or bottarga (salted, cured fish roe) shaved on top, and malloreddus (also known as Sardinian gnocchi), an gnocchi-style pasta flavored with saffron and often served with a tomato and sausage sauce or lamb ragu.

Traditional fare can be found in the many family-run restaurants and agriturismos across the island, which are the very best places to experience the ‘ true taste of Sardinia’s great value for money.

GETTING THERE.

By Air.

Sardinia has 3 main airports: one located on the west coast (Alghero ‘Riviera del Corallo), one in the south (Cagliari ‘Elmas’), and one on the east coast, the famous ‘Emerald Coast’ or ‘Costa Smeralda’ as the Sardinian call it (Olbia).

By Sea.

The island is also well connected with the Italian, French, Corsican, and Spanish ports. Ferry companies like Grimaldi, Moby and Tirrenia give you the option to disembark at the Sardinian ports of Olbia, Porto Torres, Cagliari, Arbatax, Golfo Aranci, and Santa Teresa di Gallura. The routes between Sardinia and Italy operate year-round.

Our Journey.

For both our trips, we opted to take the ferry from Civitavecchia (only 1.5 hours from our home in Citta della Pieve). The wonderful thing in these challenging times was being able to avoid the airport, long-stay parking, checked luggage, and security lines.

The ferry experience was seamless; on our first trip in 2019, we took the overnight crossing with a private stateroom departing at 22.45 and arriving at 0.600 in Olbia, and the day ferry on our return. But we found the return-day journey monotonous. Although the ferries are well appointed with a swimming pool, game rooms, sun decks, TV lounges, and gym, it still became a little tiresome after the first couple of hours. After all, it’s not like you are on a cruise where everyone on board is there for a holiday. In 2020, we opted for the overnight passage both ways, which gave us a full day at home before our trip started and a full day in Sardinia before our return. On-board, the cabins are quite spacious, clean, and well-maintained, and they have a good shower and toiletries.

We chose to disembark in Olbia, even though we were headed south to the province of Muravera, where Costa Rei is located. Both the arrival and departure from the ferry were seemless and well organized. The roads to and from the ship are clearly signposted, and in minutes you are on the main highway that takes you all the way down to the south. The three-hour road trip to Costa Rei exposes you to both the spectacular mountainscapes and the beautiful seaside. And of course, the opportunity en route to explore other gorgeous towns, beaches, and interesting historical sites.

However you choose to come to this beautiful island, one thing is for sure: you will certainly be in awe of its grandeur and natural beauty.

“Sardinia, in the end is a strange, wild and different spirit, so diverse and so adverse in differing places, it will smash our mechanical oneness into smithereens…and we shall be left staring.”

D. H. LAWRENCE, SEA AND SARDINIA, 1921

Check out Sardegna–Part Two, where you’ll discover all the places we ventured, stayed, and played on this wondrous island.

Some of the information used in this post was sourced from sardegnaturismo.it