ITALY’S DAYS OF THE DEAD

Journey into the Realm of remembrance.

As the summer tourists depart Italy the locals change gear and move into Autumn harvest mode. The olive groves hum with the sound of abbacchiatore’s as plump olives are felled, winemakers refine their blends and the sweet smell of woodsmoke fills the air as the summers trimmings are sent heavenward from spiralling fires. With the breathtaking turning landscape, harvest traditions, and special dedication to those who have passed away, this time of year in Umbria is a kaleidoscope of delight and wonder. To learn more about what this season can offer, read my article MAGICAL AUTUMN IN CITTA DELLA PIEVE.

However, this time of year brings much more than harvests and merriment – as on November 1st and 2nd ‘All Saints Day and All Souls’ Day are celebrated. Join me as I explore the unique events that unfold across Italy to commemorate this special time of remembrance and reflection, where ancestral customs and traditional symbols come to life through food and captivating rituals.

THE origin story

The origins of commemorating the departed can be traced back to the very beginnings of the Middle Ages, and possibly even earlier. Halloween, All Saints’ Day, and All Souls’ Day are believed to have originated from the ancient festival known as Samhain, celebrated by the ancient Celtic peoples. During the sacred Samhain, blazing bonfires illuminated the night, creating a mystical portal for ancestral spirits to cross over into our realm. A captivating tradition during Samhain was the vibrant art of mumming, where enthusiastic groups of amateur performers traveled from house to house, entertaining spectators with their enchanting acts in exchange for delicious food and drink. These passionate displays added an extra layer of vibrancy and warmth to this celebration of life and the afterlife.

In the ancient days of yore, when the crisp autumn air drove out the last of the summer warmth, the nights drew in and whispered tales of the supernatural accompanied our ancestors as they embarked on the timeless tradition of baking soul cakes, delicate treats resembling delightful shortbread biscuits. These delectable morsels were lovingly shared with “soulers” – often children and the less fortunate. As they roamed from door to door, these souls sang heartfelt songs and offered prayers for the departed. Over time, this sacred observance merged with the Christian celebration of All Saints’ Day, also known as All Hallows Day, honored on November 1st. Thus, the eve preceding this holy day, October 31st, embraced its own identity as Halloween, forever enchanting young and old with its mystical charms.

All saints day / ognissanti

On November 1st, Italians come together to celebrate a momentous occasion – the Feast of All Saints or All Saints’ Day. It is a day filled with reverence, passion, and joy as people honour the saints who have exemplified the epitome of faith and devotion. This is also a time to pay homage to those who bear names inspired by these revered figures. Families across Italy exchange meaningful gifts, symbols of love and remembrance, as we commemorate this extraordinary day. It’s worth mentioning that each region in Italy infuses its own unique flair into the festivities, making it an experience that is both deeply personal and rich in local cultural heritage.

Allow me to guide you through a mesmerizing exploration of the most extraordinary, eccentric, and delightful customs found in various regions. Together, we’ll delve into the captivating tapestry of traditions that make our world so diverse and enchanting.

In cities like Naples and Palermo, traditions come to life in extraordinary ways. Streets glow with radiant lights, melodious sounds fill the air, and there are magnificent processions to honour the saints while celebrating the joy of life. People come together with a sense of awe to witness the splendour of fireworks displays and to savour the unique culinary delights of this occasion, such as zeppole and cassate.

While visitors to Puglia will find the tradition of pumpkin souls – intricately carved and illuminated with flickering candles – known as “cocce priatorje.” These carved pumpkins, meticulously transformed into ghostly lanterns, line the cobblestone streets, casting an otherworldly glow upon passersby. Each pumpkin, with its own distinct face, holds a story within its flickering candlelight and they are coupled with mesmerising bonfires of broom branches known as “Fuoc acost”.

Ah, in the charming village of Bormio, Lombardy, the pumpkin festivities unfold in a truly remarkable manner! Instead of the customary pumpkin carving, the locals embrace a more spirited approach. They fill these vibrant orbs with the nectar of the gods itself – wine! A delightful fusion of autumnal splendour and indulgence, offering a taste of the season in every sip.

Now, let me whisk you away to Veneto, where imagination takes flight with their exquisite “lumere” lanterns. Each intricately carved masterpiece, like a portal to the whimsical world of Halloween, beckons us to marvel at the intricate craftsmanship and vibrant glow. And in Abruzzo, the little ones take on a noble quest, venturing through the streets with wide-eyed enthusiasm. Armed with kindness and innocent smiles, they seek gifts on behalf of the departed souls. The land of Friuli unveils a mesmerizing ritual, where illuminated buckets of water stand as beacons of hospitality. These humble offerings, accompanied by a loaf of bread, ensure refreshment for the ethereal visitors, as if extending the warmest of invitations to partake in the earthly realm. Now, let us venture to Trentino, where reverence and celebration intertwine. Tables adorned with unparalleled grandeur are set to honor the spirits of the departed. The joyous tolling of church bells resonates in the night, calling forth these ethereal guests, ensuring that the journey from beyond is met with love and companionship. Oh, the realm of All Hallows’ Eve emanates such a profound sense of wonder and unity, as traditions and rituals enliven our hearts with the timeless spirits of our ancestors.

And here in the green heart of Italy a carnival and market is held in Perugia in honour of the dead called “Fiera dei Morti” it is considered the biggest and most important Fair of the year. It dates back to medieval times when its name was “All Saints Fair”, taking place in the period of that religious holiday. It was within a rich calendar of fair and market activities in Umbria, during the Middle ages and the Renaissance.

Since then, the spirit of the event seems to have remained intact and it still is a time of fun and shopping, A place where you can find novelty and curiosity, or simply a place to wander carefree, immersed in the aromas and colours of a festive atmosphere. Every year in Pian di Massiano, the Piazzale Umbria Jazz welcomes over 500 exhibitors for five days in November. Visitors can explore a variety of products, including personal and household items, herbal remedies, hardware, car accessories, toys, crafts, agricultural products, and food. Delicious local specialties such as cured meats, torta al testo, sandwiches, crepes, and roasted chestnuts are available to be enjoyed. Alongside the lively marketplace, visitors can also witness captivating street performances, jugglers, and impromptu shows.

Another enchanting Umbrian autumn spectacle is to visit the Pumpkin Patch just outside Spoleto, where you’ll find everything pumpkin-related: haystack mazes, fun activities for young and old, and much more.

All souls day / Day of the dead

The following day, November 2nd, marks the celebration of the Day of the Dead, an occasion dedicated to honoring those who have passed away by visiting the cemetery. However, it goes beyond that. Many of these customs have deep ancestral roots, tied to ancient pagan beliefs about the return of the deceased to the world of the living and the importance of providing them sustenance after their arduous journey.

The Festival of the Dead serves as an opportunity for the departed to “awaken”. Rooted in the ancient pagan practices that were once prevalent in various Indo-European cultures, this day embodies a joyous celebration. It is a moment when the departed are not simply remembered, but genuinely revered. Observed in a familial context, it is a day filled with traditional cuisine, festivities, gifts, and outings spent with loved ones.

Undoubtedly, on the Day of the Dead, a unique bond is formed between the living and the departed, a connection that transcends the barriers of life and death. It serves as a reminder of the importance of honoring those who have passed, keeping their memory alive, and finding solace in the belief that, for a brief moment, our loved ones return to share our existence once more. It is a vibrant, love-filled, and respectful celebration that prompts us to contemplate life and mortality while embracing our own ancestral traditions.

Food for REMEMBRANCE

Italy doesn’t celebrate anything without food, and these two days of remembrance are no exception. From time-honoured dishes steeped in history to delectable sweets that pay homage to the departed, the culinary delights of these days of remembrance add a delightful dimension to the tapestry of this enchanting celebration. So let’s dig in!

One of the most emblematic foods associated with All Saints Day is the “beans of the dead,” known as Fave dei Morti in Italian. These small, almond-shaped cookies pay homage to the departed by resembling the shape of a bean, symbolising the cycle of life and death. Made with almond flour, egg whites, sugar, and a hint of lemon zest, these delicate treats are often enjoyed alongside a glass of sweet wine, adding a touch of sweetness to the remembrance of loved ones.

Another delightful sweet treat is represented by the bone-shaped cookies called “Ossa di Morto“. Originating from the Parma area and popular in various regions of Italy, these cookies offer a pleasant reminder of life’s transience. Made with a base of shortcrust pastry covered in a delicate sugar or chocolate icing and adorned with almonds, these little delights invite you to savor each bite, while also prompting a greater appreciation for the fleeting nature of existence. Rest assured, their exquisite taste far surpasses their macabre name. Treat yourself to the experience of these flavors and let these memento mori serve as a gentle, albeit slightly eerie, reminder to seize every moment and cherish its preciousness.

In Umbria, the Stinchetti dei Morti, or “shins of the dead” cakes, hold significance as a way to commemorate the day and honour loved ones. Alternatively, a culinary treasure hailing from Milan and Tuscany is the famous Pane dei morti, or “bread of the dead.” This dense, spicy bread is traditionally made with ingredients like nuts, dried fruits, cocoa, coffee, and spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. The distinct aroma of this bread wafts through Italian households during All Souls’ Day, filling the air with warmth and nostalgia. Families often gather to bake and share this bread, creating a sense of togetherness and remembrance through this ancient tradition.

A typical Piedmontese preparation is the Cisra-“chickpea soup,” enriched and flavoured with pork ribs. It is also known as Minestra dei morti. Some prefer to accompany it with cotechino or pumpkin. It is not uncommon on such occasions to leave an extra dish on the table to satiate the souls of the visiting deceased. Sicilian sugar puppets and Sardinian “papassini” delight the younger ones. Both are traditionally presented to children, with the tale that they are gifts from the souls of the departed.

In the northern region of Puglia, Colva is prepared, a captivating mixture of softened wheat grains, pomegranate seeds, crushed nuts, vincotto, chocolate, and sugar takes center stage. This delightful concoction signifies the intricate fusion of flavors, embodying the meticulous attention to detail poured into the creation of culinary offerings.

No celebration in Italy is complete without the presence of pasta, and All Saints Day is no exception. Families come together to enjoy a comforting bowl of pasta al forno, a baked pasta dish layered with rich tomato sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan cheese, and sometimes meat such as sausage or ground beef. The flavours meld together, creating a hearty and filling dish that brings comfort and nourishment during this time of remembrance.

If you ever find yourself fortunate enough to experience the extraordinary celebrations of All Souls’ Day in Italy, you can anticipate embarking on a deeply moving and memorable journey as this day offers a remarkable blend of culinary delights and heartfelt tributes.

Visiting the Dead and Italian Cemeteries

A visit to an Italian cemetery on All Souls’ Day is more than just a unique and memorable experience – it’s also a profound connection with history and spirituality. These cemeteries typically differ from those in Australia or North America, more reminiscent of the cemeteries of New Orleans. Here, the deceased receive a funeral niche, sharing a space with others above, below, and beside them, most of them adorned with ornate ceramic plates etched with images of the deceased. Those of higher wealth may even have a small private building where their family can rest together, while large multi-story buildings provide shared space. By day, these cemeteries are filled with the beauty of gardens, trees, and fountains, like the renowned San Miniato cemetery in Florence.

Families often gather to honour their loved ones, bringing fresh flowers, lighting candles, and even sharing a meal at the site.

flowers FOR REMEMBRANCE

The humble chrysanthemum is the flower chosen by Italians to bring to the cemetery; they are for sale everywhere before this holiday. The Chrysanthemum has long been a symbol of love and remembrance. These radiant flowers, aptly named “golden flowers” in ancient Greece, hold profound significance in various cultures. Universally regarded as messengers of prosperity, joy, and goodwill, they evoke a sense of wonder wherever their splendid petals unfurl.

Furthermore, the intricate petals of the chrysanthemums hold a deeper meaning within the realm of magic surrounding All Souls’ Day. Each petal represents a life lived, a memory cherished, or a moment shared. As we walk amidst the rows of graves adorned with these beautiful flowers, we are reminded of the countless stories and experiences that make up the tapestry of existence. More than just symbols of death and mourning, chrysanthemums also embody the celebration of life itself. Their blooming in the autumn season, as the leaves fall and the days grow shorter, becomes a testament to the resilience of nature and the ability to find beauty even in the midst of decay. It is a reminder that life is a precious gift to be cherished, even in the face of mortality.

FINAL THOUGHTS

As I researched All Souls’ and All Saints Day celebrations in Italy, I couldn’t help feeling a sense of profound empathy for the emotions it stirs within us. These celebrations, intertwined with the traditions of Ognissanti, invite us to pay homage to our departed loved ones and hold them close in our thoughts and hearts. Amid the mystical aura of cemeteries and the symbolism of chrysanthemums, we are reminded of the power of remembrance and the immeasurable impact our departed loved ones have had on our lives. While my personal connection to this occasion may not be deeply intense, I can fully empathise with the complex mix of emotions it elicits. The pain of loss lingers long after the departure of those we hold dear, and the act of honouring them draws forth a beautiful tapestry of shared experiences and memories. It is through this acknowledgment and the shared embrace of our own mortality that we find solace and renewal. May we each navigate our personal journeys of grief and remembrance with empathy, extending support to one another and finding comfort in the enduring love that transcends all boundaries.