MILANO: ITALY’S METROPOLIS

An Ultimate Weekend Guide!

Known for its fast-paced atmosphere, old-world charm, and elegance, Milan is Italy’s most cosmopolitan city. A vibrant, multicultural place that combines a big-city vibe with the quintessential Italian spirit. The city is Italy’s financial hub, economic driver and home to the country’s Stock Exchange. The city is an architectural melting pot with a financial district dominated by modern glass-clad skyscrapers and urban parkland, and large historical quarter filled with palazzi harbouring magical hidden courtyards.

A brief history of Milan

Before I dive into the best things to see and do in this cosmopolitan city, lets briefly explore its fascinating history that stretches back to a Celtic settlement in 400BC. Thereafter city was conquered by the Romans in 222BC and later became the capital of the Western Roman Empire. As the Empire declined over subsequent centuries, the city was invaded by many different groups, including the Visigoths, Huns and Lombards.

During the Middle Ages, Milan flourished as a trade hub and from the 13th and 15th centuries, the powerful Visconti family ruled bringing a period of glory and wealth to the city. During their reign the magnificent Duomo cathedral was built in 1386. Although Milan grew as in important Renaissance city from the 15th century, it would also have to put up with French, Spanish and Austrian rule until Italian unification in 1871.

The Kingdom of Italy had, in fact, been declared by Napoleon at the turn of the 19th century, but when his occupation ended in 1814, the Lombard region, including its capital of Milan, came under Austrian control. The Austrians were finally given the boot in 1859 after numerous Milanese rebellions.

Although Rome was appointed the capital after the final phase of unification, Milan swiftly became the real economic and cultural leader. It developed into a pivotal industrial base, with rail links expanding out from the city, and Milanese banks gaining financial dominance over the country.

It was here that the fascist leader Benito Mussolini rose to prominence in the early 20th century. He and his followers marched on Rome in 1922, seizing control of the country. As a centre of Italian fascism, Milan was bombed heavily by the Allies during WWII. And it’s a miracle that so many historic treasures survived from this period, including La Scala opera house, Castello Sforzesco and The Last Supper by Da Vinci.

After the war Milan headed the national reconstruction of the country and the population increased as southern migrants came seeking work, and at this point modern skyscrapers such as the Velasca and Pirelli Towers began to pop up. By the 1980s, many fashion houses that were based in the city (including Armani, Versace and Dolce & Gabanna) were enjoying global success and Milan was suddenly transformed into one of the world’s leading fashion capitals. The city has also emerged as Italy’s major center for commerce, finance, publishing and, recently, as the Italian capital of the media, design and advanced technological service sectors.

Getting around

If you’ve been following my blog you’ll know that our favourite way to explore a city is either by bike or public transport. And Milan is no exception, from the reliable metro and trams to bike lanes and bike-sharing services, this is truly an eco friendly city.

The Metro 

The metro is one of the easiest ways to move around the city and is used daily by locals and tourists alike, with service starting at around six in the morning and ending at around midnight. It currently has four lines (with the fifth one in construction) and it also reaches beyond Milan proper into the city’s suburbs. A single ticket is €2, but you can buy a 24-hour ticket for €7, a three-day ticket for €12 and a 10-trips pack for €18. 

Trams

Trams contribute not only to the city’s infrastructure but also to its iconic image and cityscape with their very recognizable yellow color and distinctive rumbling as they trundle along. There are a total of eighteen lines operating within the Milan city limits, and service runs for 22 hours from around 4am to 2am. Tickets cost the usual €2 and can be bought on the Milanese Transport Agency’s official website or app, as well as at tabaccherie and newsagents around the city.

A fabulous way to sightsee is to take tram 10 which travels a scenic route through the entire city. And make a stop at Via Vittorio Veneto and go to the Parco Indro Montanelli. These Victorian public gardens have a delightfully nostalgic feel thanks to the miniature nursery garden within it–and the children’s train which whisks youngsters around the gardens. There is also an impressive natural history museum and planetarium in the park, making it a wonderful option if you’re traveling with children.

Sharing services

An alternative to your own means of transportation and “traditional” public transport is a sharing service, Whether it’s a car (Milan actually has the most extensive car sharing service in the whole of Italy), a bike or a scooter. While some are cheaper than others, they all follow the same principle — You pick up your chosen vehicle at a location closest to you and drop it off at your destination, paying only for the time you have used. For more wonderful bike friendly cities and towns check out my post MY ITALIAN BIKE CLUB.

Walking

Walking is a great way of exploring the city and catching those interesting laneways and quirky sights you might otherwise miss. And of course is probably the best way to discover the ‘locals’ Milan, away from the main tourist attractions.

What to see and do!

In order to help you plan a short-stay in this interesting city I have prepared a guide of the best things to do over the course of a weekend or five days. 

DAY 1

The Duomo

Milan’s Duomo is the third-largest Gothic cathedral in Europe. The cathedral dominates the skyline with its towering, sculpted facade and golden Madonna soaring heavenward. Although work originally began in 1386, the cathedral wasn’t declared officially finished until 1965. Each of the 3500 statues represents a particular saint, priest, aristocrat, or donor to the cathedral. Climb the 250 steps to the roof, (Or purchase a ticket to take the elevator) for a panoramic view of Milan and, on a clear day, a view of the distant Alps. Top-tip: In high-season skip the lines and visit the official Duomo website to purchase a guided tour.

Museo del Novecento and the Royal Palace

Two of Milan’s most impressive art museums lie just beside the Duomo: the Museo del 900 and the Palazzo Reale. The former houses Milan’s 20th-century art collection, including a major section devoted to Italian futurism. The permanent collection features work by Picasso, Kandinsky, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio de Chirico, to name a few.

As its name suggests, the Royal Palace right next door was once the largest palace in the city. During the period of medieval communes in the Middle Ages, it became the seat of the Italian government. Today it hosts a wide array of temporary exhibitions featuring local and international artists.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Across from the museums lies Galleria Vittoria Emanuele, the first shopping mall in Europe built for King Vittorio in 1915. Today, it houses the flagship stores of Italy’s biggest brands. It also features a vintage bookstore, restaurants, and bars including the famous Camparino Terrace. Legend has it that Milan’s signature drink, Aperol spritz, was created here. With its art deco design including cast-iron chandeliers, a carved bar, and a mosaic floor, it’s easy to see why it was a regular haunt for personalities like Toscanini and Verdi, among others. For more delicious aperitivo cocktail ideas check out my post MY ITALIAN COCKTAIL CLUB

Teatro La Scala

From the Galleria, walk to Teatro La Scala, Milan’s opera house. Built for Empress Maria Theresa of Austria in 1778. La Scala’s luxurious interiors and impressive remit of singers and shows will blow away even the most cultured of tourists. The gilded, atmospheric space will transport you back to Milan’s golden age of entertainment. Guided visits are available and tickets for performances can be purchased online.

Porta Venezia

Cross over Corso Venezia, one of Milan’s main thoroughfares, to admire some of the city’s most spectacular buildings. Having been bombed throughout World War Two, many of the palazzi that line the streets were rebuilt in a plethora of styles:Here you’ll see pre-Renaissance mansions next to fascist buildings and brutalist styles next to medieval courtyards and art-deco façades. 

Also stop to glimpse into the Palazzo Sola Busca on Via Serbeloni, outside of which the fascist-era sculptor Adolfo Wildt, known for his mastery of marble designed a giant ear as the entry phone. Around the corner on Via dei Capuccini, the fort-like Palazzo Berri-Meregalli offers one of the best examples of eclectic art-deco architecture. In the entrance hall, you can admire decadent mosaics, while Adolfo Wildt’s famous sculpture La Vittoria acts as the focal point of this remarkable entranceway.

Brera District

A final stop on day one is Milan’s prettiest central neighborhood. Brera and Moscova are adjoining districts that offer a more traditional Italian feel than the rest of this modern city. White-tablecloth restaurants, upmarket boutiques, and open-air markets line the cobbled streets of Brera. Moscova, however, is central to Milan’s ‘Design City’ status, home to boutiques owned by Seletti, Herman Miller, and Bisazza.  We also discovered a wonderful men’s shop with great grooming products, clothes and even a barber service called Depot-Men’s concept store, It’s well worth a visit.

This neighbourhood lends its name to the Pinacoteca di Brera, one of Italy’s leading art galleries. The Pinacoteca di Brera (open until 7:15 p.m.) houses a vast collection of mostly Italian masterworks. On a smaller but no less impressive scale, the Ambrosian Library (Biblioteca Pinacoteca Accademia Ambrosiana) includes an ornate 17th-century library that looks like something one would see in a Harry Potter film. And there’s also a gallery with works from Da Vinci, Raphael, and Jan Brueghel, the Elder. The library closes at 5 p.m and the gallery closes at 6 p.m. Make sure you finish your visit with a coffee break at Caffè Fernanda, located inside the museum. The recently refurbished bar offers some of the chicest drinks in Milan. 

Day 2

Parco Sempione & Castello Sforzesco

Start with an early morning walk around Parco Sempione, Milan’s equivalent of Central Park. The sandy-colored paths, verdant horticulture, and bubbling streams serve as the perfect backdrop for Milan’s early bird runners, coffee drinkers, or strollers. Enter at Arco Della Pace, a neoclassical arch that rivals France’s Arc de Triomphe in grandeur.

Inside the park there are also numerous coffee vendors offering excellent cappuccinos and cornettos. Have a seat and people watch or take a stroll around the majestic Castello Sforzesco, located on the park’s grounds. Built in the 14th century by Francesco Sforza, the duke of Milan, it was the largest citadel in Europe. Today it houses a number of museums and galleries. This includes a fine art collection, a library, and The Museum of Musical Instruments.

The Last Supper

‘Whatever your beliefs if there is one thing you must do whilst in Milan its see the emotive masterpiece.’ From Castello Sforzesco, walk down Via Dante to reach Santa Maria Della Grazie, the small church that houses Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper. On your way, you’ll pass Corso Magenta, Europe’s oldest shopping street which is packed with independent jewelry shops and old-fashioned pastry shops. Legend says that da Vinci built secret underground tunnels that allowed him direct access to Castello Sforzesco from the church. Make sure to book tickets online at least one month in advance as they sell out fast.

Continue your da Vinci tour with a visit to Casa Degli Atellani, a Renaissance house, and garden. Here, you can visit La Vigna di Leonardo, a small vineyard that once belonged to the famous painter himself. Lovingly restored by the architect Piero Portaluppi, the house is practically unknown to most tourists. It offers a rare glimpse into not just da Vinci’s interest in viticulture, but also Renaissance life in Milan.

Peck-Milan’s Gastronomic Mecca

Milan’s three-floor gastronomic temple, Peck, makes a worthy stop to grab some nibbles in its phenomenal deli—the Italian meats and cheeses are out of this world—or for a fine lunch in one of its three restaurants, the more formal Ristorante Al Peck, the casual Peck Italian Bar, or the café Piccolo Peck.

Sant Ambrogio Church 

After lunch, head over to Milan’s southern districts for an afternoon of religious history before a decadent coffee and Cake at Bar Luce in the Prada Fondazione building. An outstanding example of Lombard Romanesque architecture, the Basilica di Sant Ambrogio was built between 379 and 386, tucked away in a little side street south of the Castello. Named after the 4th-century Bishop who became Milan’s patron saint, the somber red-brick church is filled with historical and artistic masterpieces, including a solid-gold 12th-century altar beneath which lies the saint’s embalmed body.

Prada Fondazione

Head across town to one of Milan’s most avant-garde—attractions, Fondazione Prada, which houses contemporary art in more than 200,000 square feet of space centred around an old distillery. Though there are a range of rotating exhibits, but you’ll always find works from artists Louise Bourgeois and Dan Flavin. If all this art helps you work up an appetite, check out the Wes Andersen-designed Bar Luce for a drink and bite in what feels like a ‘50s movie set.

The Navigli, Milan’s Famous Canal District

It’s hard to believe it today, but Milan was a port until the second half of the 20th century. Its major arteries were once waterways and important trade routes connecting the city with nearby Lake Maggiore and the River Po. Most of the canals were built over in the mid 20th century. today. Today, only two adjoining canals remain; The point where they connect is known as the Darsena, which was renovated for the 2015 Expo. The area is a hub of relaxed, open-air bars and eateries that spread all along Naviglio Grande, the main canal. On the weekends, there are antique, vintage fashion, and flower markets, and by night, the area throngs with locals looking for some of the best aperitivo and cocktails in the city. This area is the perfect spot to end your weekend or mid-week adventure. Dine at one of the many eateries and afterward enjoy a night cap at MAG cafe, an art-deco haunt that serves a wild concoction of drinks and is open until (very) late every night. 

Explore beyond the city

If you’re planning a longer stay and would like to explore beyond the city limits then the possibilities are endless as Milan is considered the crossroads to Europe. With its extensive railway network, you can even get to Paris in time for dinner on TrenItalia. There are also many delightful small towns just an hour or so away from the city. One recommendation is Bergamo, a town with two souls represented by the two main neighbourhoods — Bergamo Alta, the old city center perched on top of a hill, and Bergamo Bassa, the newer area with hipster coffee labs and delicious eateries.

Swiss Alps

Another fun day trip is aboard the Bernina Express Train, Switzerland’s alpine delight, Where for a few hours you’ll traverse one of the most beautiful railway routes in the world.

There are several ways to make this journey and here’s just the simplest: After a coach ride from Milan to Tirano, board the train to travel on the UNESCO-listed route with its unsurpassed alpine views. Look out at the Swiss Alps as you ride along the Bernina Pass to St Moritz, and then enjoy free time to explore the chic mountain town before your return to Milan.

Milan is a constantly evolving dynamic city that seamlessly mixes modern and ancient architecture and styles, has great restaurants, cafe’s, museums and galleries. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit in February 2023 and hope that perhaps, through this post I’ve also inspired you to visit this city of art, work, fashion, opportunity and innovation.