MY ITALIAN BIKE CLUB: A GUIDE TO 21 BIKE-FRIENDLY DESTINATIONS.

As a follow-up to my popular Travel Ways article and in honour of both Earth Day and my love of cycling, I thought I would explore the myriad cycling experiences on offer in Italy.

When you think of Italy, cycling may not be the first thing that springs to mind, but the country is truly a paradise for cyclists and one of the most popular cycling destinations in Europe. Here, the popularity of cycling can be traced back to the inception of the Giro d’Italia in 1909, an event that is still going strong today. You’ll often see gaggles of lycra-clad cyclists training for such an event in the hilltop regions of Umbria, Tuscany, Veneto, and Lombardy. Although I can admire this kind of passion and dedication, it’s not my kind of cycling. I prefer the ease of gentle hills, bike paths, and exploring at one’s own leisure.

I believe nothing beats the freedom a bike affords, and since our New York days, my partner and I have always tried to secure one when visiting a large town or city. Also, for the eco-conscious, they are completely carbon neutral, and for the easily frustrated, you don’t have to worry about parking or dealing with annoying fines incurred for entering the poorly signposted restricted zones found in most places of historic interest. In writing this article, I’ve discovered that Italy has many towns and cities where the bicycle has always been the most common form of transport. And today, thanks to cycling lanes, bike-sharing systems, and a strong green initiative by the Italian government, cyclists of all ages and abilities are accommodated.

This article contains 21 cycling adventures that are suitable for all skill levels and provide an exciting way to explore this stunning country. But if you would rather be on two feet than two wheels, all of these places are equally amazing for people who enjoy walking, trekking, or hiking.

5 GREAT REASONS TO RIDE A BIKE

1. It reduces your carbon footprint: Cycling instead of driving is pollution-free and can reduce household emissions by more than 6%. 
2. It takes fewer resources to make a bicycle: Car production creates 1.2 billion meters of pollution every year. 
3. Bicycles do not use fossil fuels. Cars consume 9.2 million barrels of gasoline every day in the United States. 
4. Bikes reduce traffic: Automobiles produce 0.97 pounds of pollution per mile per year; bicycles are up to 50% faster than cars at rush hour, and by reducing congestion, they reduce emissions. 
5. Bikes produce virtually no noise, while cars create noise pollution that affects the quality of life for all living things. 
By incorporating cycling into your daily life instead of driving your car, you are helping protect the planet as well as improving your health and mental wellbeing. 

“Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race.” (H.G. Wells)

1. Trieste: A city where cafe and bike culture thrive.

With options for all abilities, Trieste and its environs are ideal for cyclists. Nestled in northeastern Italy and close to the border with both Croatia and Slovenia, the city was a crossroads for historic empires, a beloved refuge for artists, and the uncrowned capital of Italian coffee culture. It’s also famous for the Bora wind, a north-east wind that blows on the North Adriatic coast between Trieste and Montenegro. It is a cold and strong wind with gusts that can exceed 150 km/h, so check the forecast before planning a cycling trip. In spite of its distant past, centuries of Austrian rule have left an enduring mark, with the House of Hapsburg having built much of Trieste’s regal core as well as influencing gastronomy with artiginal beers, sauerkraut, strudel, and much more. But the Trieste of today is hardly a dusty relic, as joining the Old World churches, picturesque piazzas, sumptuous palazzo-museums, classic Austrian coffeehouses, and cozy seafood restaurants are a new high-tech photography museum, an expanding nightlife area, and a fancy new marina, Portopiccolo.

2. Lucca: The ultimate bike-friendly city.

Lucca’s historical centre is a huge car-free enclosure, though bizarrely, this is also where the internal combustion engine was invented. So needless to say, the best way to visit all the glorious sites this town has to offer, from the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, the Ducal Palace, and the Clock Tower to Piazza San Michele and the Cathedral, is by bike. Also, the original fortified walls that surround the whole town are wide enough to be enjoyed safely by bike or on foot. There are even four-seater bikes available to rent at various locations around the walls, which are lots of fun, especially for those not comfortable on two wheels. The circumference of the wall is about 4,5 km and peppered with lookout points served by quaint cafe’s where you can rest for a coffee or gelato and enjoy the impressive skyline of the Centro Storico. It’s worth noting that the outskirts of the town remain fairly flat, so you can easily venture further afield and pay a visit to Villa Oliva and Villa Grabau.

3. Verona: A town best explored on two wheels.

Designed in accordance with the bends and twists of the River Adige, you’ll find Verona, a visually stunning city of excellence and one of the 55 Italian sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List. And with 2,000 years of history encased in an expanse of 77 square miles, the city’s architecture integrates the finest artistic elements from several diverse historical epochs. Cycling along the river bank, across the bridges, and then around the arena allows you to quickly see all of Verona’s wonders. Also, the centre is a limited traffic zone, so you can cycle in safety, and for lovers of love, don’t forget to visit the famous balcony and statue of Juliet from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.

4. Firenze: Even more beautiful by bicycle.

Florence continues to enchant through its artistic masterpieces, coloured marbles, and architectural works that evoke the pomp and circumstance of the Renaissance. And the convenience of a bicycle allows you to move from the timeless artworks of Florence’s Centro Storico to the grand piazza of Oltranto in minutes, where you’ll find hipsters frequenting trendy cafe’s and artists hanging out on street corners. Also, the centre of Florence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is closed to traffic, which makes cycling a joy, though do look out for tourists who stop randomly to gaze heavenward to admire the architecture.

For the full scope of what’s on offer in this amazing city, check out my post, A MONTH OF MONDAYS IN FLORENCE.

5. Turin offers 175 km of blissful cycle paths.

Exploring Turin and its surroundings by bike is the best way to discover its majestic historic residences, lush metropolitan parks, local specialties, and glimpses of nature so beautiful they bring to mind famous paintings. Turin offers its citizens and tourists an incredible 175 km of cycle paths. And you or your companions don’t have to be great athletes, as everything is pretty flat, so you can easily venture along the wide tree-lined streets or through the charming old town with its beautiful squares. Then later, explore the path along the Po River or visit the beautiful Valentino Park. There are also several great cycle tour options available from local vendors.

6. Udine: wine, books, and bikes.

Udine is in north-eastern Italy, in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region between the Adriatic Sea and the Alps. It’s city centre is filled with ancient history and legends; according to the latter, Attila the Hun built castle hill, which still dominates the old centre today. Indeed, a culture-bike-driven tour of Udine could start at the castle museums, then continue in the town centre to admire Tiepolo’s masterpieces and Casa Cavazzini, an elegant modern and contemporary art museum. Then onto the spectacular Piazza Libertà, and on through narrow mediaeval streets and past picturesque channels to arrive in Piazza Matteotti, the town’s “drawing room,” where the locals like to stop for an espresso or for the ritual evening aperitivo. The other thing to note is that the area produces a total of 80 million bottles of wine a year, and in tribute to its winemaking tradition, its numerous Osteria’s offer wine tastings as well as a sampling of delicious local dishes. The wine region is also accessible by bike, and you can either explore on your own using the clearly marked trails or take a cycling tour with one of the many vendors offering this service.

7. Ferrara: A city with more bikes than people.

In Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Ferrara is one of my favourites to explore by bike. Famous for its unusual buildings erected by its Renaissance rulers, the Este family. The moated Este Castle with its lavish private chambers and the Diamanti Palace, which is clad in diamond-shaped marble blocks and home to the National Picture Gallery, are well worth a visit, as are the Romanesque Cathedral with its 3-tiered facade and a marble bell tower. The city centre is closed to traffic, and as Ferrara boasts the largest number of bikes per inhabitant, you can cycle both safely and in good company. The city walls also offer the cyclist or pedestrian a great way to circumnavigate the city with 9 km of treks along the battlements and through the moats. More details are here: The itinerary of the city walls  Lastly, there are numerous cycling holiday itineraries for exploring the surrounding territories, with trails suitable for all abilities.

8. Grado: Cycle this lagoon paradise.

Floating between land and sea, Grado is located in the middle of the northernmost lagoon of the Adriatic Sea and boasts over 1,600 years of history. Its vibrant heritage is still alive in the picturesque streets and squares of the ancient Roman castrum. This island prides itself on having one of Europe’s cleanest seawaters and more than 5 kilometres of south-facing beaches, and for this, it has been awarded the Blue Flag certification for 28 years in a row. Thanks to its network of cycle paths, the Alpe Adria Cycle Route and the FVG2, Cycle Route, Grado is a cyclist’s paradise! The island was voted number one for having the best cycle paths in Europe in 2015, with its beautiful mountain, hilly, and lagoon landscapes stretching for 425 km starting from Salzburg; other routes wind through roads, vineyards, fields, and paths that run along the sea and connect Grado to two nature reserves and the scenic golf course. Grado is certainly on the top of my list to visit next.

9. Portoscuso: The new cycle path of Capo Alfano, Sardinia.

Portoscuso is one of the main towns in the Sulcis Iglesiente area, an historical region of Western Sardinia about an hour from the capital Cagliari. This town is famous for its ancient origins and traditions, but the most captivating feature of Portoscuso is the surrounding nature. The rocky and rugged coast offers long stretches of thin sand and pristine seawater, revealing the beautiful sea bed as well as dunes with interesting flora and fauna. All of which are accessible via the recently finished 2-kilometer bike path that hugs the scenic Capo Altano. Strangely, it is recommended to visit on windy days, as you can witness massive waves break on the rocky coast in dramatic style. It is also possible to continue north from the path for a total of 44km along the original dirt track, but for this you’ll need an off-road bike, lots of water, and a hearty packed lunch.

The town itself was once an ancient, sheltered port, but today Portoscuso houses one of the most well-equipped tourist harbors in the region. A modern complex that can accommodate approximately 400 boats, beyond the main port that connects Sardinia to Carloforte (a small island),. Located near the center of Portoscuso is the Spanish Tower, a 16th-century construction that is the symbol of Portoscuso. Today, it is used for social and cultural exhibitions and events. In the adjacent Giovanni XXIII° Square, you can visit the church dedicated to the Madonna of Itria, the Patron Saint of Portoscuso, which contains two ancient art works dating back to the 1600’s. Also not to be missed is the Sagra del Tonno (tuna festival), together with the Sagra del Granchio (crab festival) in June, and the Arrusteddara, which features grilled fresh fish in mid-August. All these popular gastronomic events, plus the amazing beaches and new bike path, make this the perfect place to ride, feast, and swim.

10. Mantua: Bike the sleeping beauty.

The locals call Mantua La Bella Addormentata, a sleeping beauty, because it hasn’t changed since the middle ages. About 40 kilometers south of the popular destinations of Lake Garda and Verona, the city somehow gets bypassed by most travellers. The key to the puzzle is the lakes, a remarkable artificial fortification created nearly 1,000 years ago that effectively closed Mantua from the world. And these encircling wetlands mean the size of Mantua has scarcely altered—even today, it takes only 20 minutes to walk across town, making the bicycle the perfect way to get around. Visit downtown Mantua, the jewel of the Gonzaga family, where you can move from the Ducal Palace to Palazzo Te, Piazza delle Erbe, and the Basilica. Exploring the surroundings of the city is also easy, with lots of interesting sites to see: the lakefronts, Bosco Fontana and Bosco della Carpaneta, the Mincio River Nature Reserve, and the Forcello Archeological Park.

11. Parma: The city of prosciutto, formaggio, & biciclette.

Parma is a university city in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, famed for its Parmesan cheese and Parma ham. I really loved this city with its wide, almost Parisian-style boulevards, it’s art and history, it’s friendliness, and its great food. And as we discovered, there’s no better way to discover its true essence than on a bike. Romanesque buildings, including the frescoed Parma Cathedral and the pink marble Baptistery, grace the city centre and are well worth a lingering visit. And every year, the beautiful Teatro Regio, a 19th-century opera house, celebrates Parma’s greatest son, Verdi, with their famed Verdi festival. For the full program of events, click here: VERDI FESTA.

The Galleria Nazionale inside the imposing Palazzo della Pilotta is also a must, and it displays works by painters Correggio and Canaletto. Another wonderful excursion by bike from Parma is to Torrechiara Castle. To get there, you follow the 36-kilometer bike path, where along the way you’ll pass the hamlet of Vigatto, with the Church of St. Peter and Villa Meli Lupi, which make for perfect pitstops.

12. Lecce: Cycle this baroque car-free city, the Florence of the South.

Cycling in Puglia’s Lecce is a fun way to explore the city, as the centre is completely car-free. This baroque city of white limestone is dubbed the Florence of the South with its wide streets, historical buildings, art galleries, and world-famous cuisine. Even though it is not a big city, there is still a lot to see and do. Don’t miss the Roman amphitheater or the Santa Croce basilica.

For more info about Lecce and Puglia, check out my post-PUGLIA-ROAD TRIPPING.

13. Rimini: Bike the sea, the old town, and the hinterland.

The first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Rimini are rows and rows of beach umbrellas and sunbeds. But Rimini is not only a beach; it is also a great place to cycle. It is not by chance that the Fiab (Italian Federation for the Environment and Cycling) awarded Rimini the title of “Bicycle-Friendly Municipality” for four consecutive years, for it has over 130 km of bike paths. This allows you to experience the city, the hinterland, and the seaside with relative ease and without any annoying traffic. Whether you ride a city bike, a racing bike, an e-bike, or an off-road bike, the Rimini area offers routes to suit. Don’t miss the Arch of Augustus, the oldest and best preserved Roman arch, the Tiberius Bridge, or the many small tavernas serving traditional fairs.

14. Pesaro and the Bicipolitana: the bike capital of Italy.

Pesaro is a city in the Marche region of Italy and is known as “The City of Bicycles” thanks to its huge network of cycle paths. This eco-sustainable cycle initiative, known as Bicipolitana, was introduced by the Pesaro Commune. By using this network of cycle paths, you are able to seamlessly travel throughout the city following a map of coloured lines similar in style to that of a subway map. The blue line connects the port to Fosso Sejore on the seaside; the green line connects Baia Flaminia to Borgo Santa Maria along the Foglia River; and the yellow line connects the city center to Pantano. There are currently a total of twelve lines, with more to come. Line 1, the first of the paths, crosses the heart of the historical center, passing through Piazza del Popolo, the birth house of well-known composer Gioacchino Rossini, and the Miralfiore Park.

15. The Spoleto-Norcia-Assisi Cycleway.

In Umbria, you can cycle the lane between Spoleto, Norcia, and Assisi, which are some of the region’s major historical and artistic beauties. The leg from Assisi to Spoleto is about 50 km long, is mainly flat, and winds through a scenic setting dotted with gentle hills, sprawling fields, and waterways. The second leg from Spoleto to Norcia follows a former railway line, along which you’ll find both gentle slopes and bumpy gravel tracks. The total journey is over 100 km, and it is advised to complete it over several days. There are some impressive stopovers along the way, either for a bite to eat or an overnight stay. These include Trevi, which is listed in the association of Italy’s most beautiful villages; Bevagna, an old town with a lovely medieval square; Spello, with its flower-adorned streets; and Pissignano Castle.

16. Lago Trasimeno: The Ring Cycle.

One of the most captivating cycle paths in Umbria is undoubtedly the ring cycle of Lake Trasimeno. Not to be confused with Wagner’s opera, although this trail is equally epic. The trail has a total length of 70.5 km. My suggestion would be to traverse it in intervals or over a couple of days. The Ciclovia (bike path), as it is known, covers about 75% of the lake’s perimeter, can be travelled on mountain, gravel, and e-bikes, or on foot, and consists of dirt roads and town streets. The route also unites the small medieval villages around the lake, such as Passignano sul Trasimeno, Tuoro sul Trasimeno, Castiglione del Lago, and San Feliciano, while along the way you will find wineries offering tastings and olive groves where you can sample fresh olive oil.

17. Lago Garda: Cycle a suspended path above the lake.

The hanging ‘Cycle Path of Dreams’ has justly earned its moniker because it not only shows off the country’s very best in engineering and design but also meanders through a spectacular natural setting. Where steep cliffs rise from the sparkling blue lake water and verdant rolling hills are speckled with cypresses, below which picturesque fishing villages hug the shoreline,. At every turn, the cyclist is presented with stunning landscapes that have inspired famous painters and poets through the ages. The hanging section of the trail is located on the north-west side of Lake Garda’s stretched arm and connects the towns of Limone sul Garda and Capo Reamol. The section currently stands at 3km in length and forms part of the 140km trail that runs the circumference of the lake. It is paved with planks of wood and is comfortable for all types of bikes. For more information, click the link here-‘Garda by Bike’.

18. Lago Bolsena: Peddle this volcanic beauty.

Bolsena’s Lake was formed more than 300,000 years ago from the crater of an extinct volcano. It is located in the Lazio region known as “High Tuscia.” Particularly renowned for its panoramic views and hills carpeted in vineyards. To tour the entire lake, begin in the village of Montefiascone, where signposts clearly mark the route; alternately, there are a variety of smaller routes. For more information, click here: KOMOOT CYCLE GUIDES.

19. Cagliari and La Spiaggia dei Poeti: Bike the longest beach in Italy.

Cagliari is the largest city in Sardinia, and the island’s capital has played an important role throughout history, particularly because of its harbour, which boasts one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean Sea. Cagliari is built over seven hills, just like Rome, so be prepared for a few challenging ascents and speedy descents. Cycle through the streets of the landmark neighbourhoods of Castello, Villanova, and Stampace, where you’ll discover the main cathedral and other storied churches, the historic city gates, soaring towers, and many other local treasures. 

The other great cycle path is Cagliari’s beautiful Poetto beach, which extends for 8 km and is not only one of the longest beaches in Italy but in all of Southern Europe. This vast city beach extends between Cagliari and Quartu Sant’Elena and is also perfect for relaxation and water sports. Another thing to note is that right across from the beach promenade is Molentargius Natural Park which is home to thousands of pink flamingos. As you cycle past, see if you can spot them flying over the city skyline or feeding on the vast salt lake.

For a complete rundown on the beautiful island of Sardinia, check out my post, SUD SARDEGNA.

20. Milano: The futurist cycle city.

Milan is set to create 750 kilometres of dedicated cycle paths by 2035 as part of plans to cut pollution and boost sustainable travel. That said, Milan is still a cyclist’s dream, and for those who enjoy lively, urban life, Milan by bike is a must. With 1.4 million inhabitants, the city is Italy’s second largest and is renowned as both a fashion capital and for its excellent university. Milan’s location in the Po Valley means there are very few hills to contend with; in fact, it’s flatter than a margherita pizza, with wide, well-paved roads and a compact centre spanning just 15km from top to bottom. In a matter of minutes, your two wheels can take you from the city’s spectacular gothic Duomo to the bar-lined canals of the Navigli District. The same goes for Milan’s other big draws: Leonardo da Vinci’s ethereal Last Supper; the masterpieces of the Pinacoteca di Brera; and the imposing hulk of Castle Sforza. By bike, none of them are more than 30 minutes apart. The best time to visit and bike in this northern Italian city is from March to June and September to November. 

21. Roma: Cycle the Eternal City.

Rome certainly doesn’t have the reputation of being a cyclist’s paradise, but in my experience, it’s a great way to get around quickly while seeing the sights. And don’t believe the hype—the Eternal City actually offers plenty of advantages for two-wheeled tourists. If you ride smart, you’ll find that cycling is the fastest and funnest way to get around. I know Rome’s infamously aggressive drivers, traffic jams, unpredictably gestural pedestrians, and cobblestone-infested hills make cycling seem unlikely, if not impossible. But honestly, it’s not that bad. First, traffic jams are certainly an enemy of drivers, but cyclists can pedal around or through them. Secondly, if pedestrians know you are approaching, they will move, so use your bell liberally. And if you’re not sure which route to take out of a sticky jam, there will always be an iconic Vespa to lead the way—perhaps not to where you wish to go, but hey. There are also many pedestrian zones in Rome where cyclists are allowed, but unfortunately, there’s no cure for the bumpy cobblestones. But that authentic experience is what you’re after in Rome anyway, right? Let some air out of your tyres (it reduces the bounce) and enjoy the ride!

On your bike, folks!

Cycling in Italy is generally safe, but please pay attention, be conscious, wear a helmet, and follow all safety guidelines and road rules. Also bear in mind that motorists can be unpredictable, especially in peak season when the roads may be filled with tourists uncertain of their routes or who stop unexpectedly to photograph the gorgeous scenery, so wherever possible, stick to the dedicated bike paths. Lastly, please remember that your safety is paramount and that it is your own responsibility even when following my suggestions.

I hope I’ve inspired you to ditch the four wheels for two, if only occasionally, to go explore this gorgeous country. And if you want to make this a really eco-conscious adventure, TrenItalia has designated carriages for cyclists who wish to bring their own bicycles, so you can hop the train to your desired location and cycle away totally car-free. Alternatively, most, if not all, of the places I’ve recommended have bike-sharing companies that are easy to use and hassle-free. You can rent city bikes, mountain bikes, e-bikes, or even e-scooters if you’re so inclined. All you need to do is download an app for the specific company and follow the instructions.

So on your bikes, folks… Peddle safely and have fun!