CEFALU, SICILY-LAST OF THE SUMMER WARMTH.

A WEEK IN PARADISE.

Cefalù is pronounced chef-a-loo, with the stress on the accented last syllable.

Last October, due to my husband’s reluctance and refusal to let the summer go as the cool Umbrian winds ushered in the autumn and the temperature hovered around 16 degrees, we found ourselves unexpectedly hoping for a flight bound for Cefalù, a small, beautiful seaside town about an hour from Palermo. The 45-minute flight was quick and painless from Perugia airport (PEG) and before the cabin crew even had a chance to sell their lottery tickets, we were on the ground in Palermo (PMO), where the temperature was a balmy 32 degrees.

As we waited for our driver to take us to the rental car office, the rumble of thunder rolled in from a distance, and by the time we were on the road to Cefalù, the storm had made its way to us, engulfing us in a deluge of biblical proportions. Amazed by the caution of local drivers who parked up in the multitude of tunnels, we eventually followed suit and watched in amazement as our Fiat Panda rocked from side to side and rivers of mud cascaded down from mountainsides coating the roads as the sky was wild with lightning chucked down hail the size of golf balls. All we could do was laugh; this was not the end of the summer holiday we had imagined and certainly a far cry from the sunshine and high temperatures we’d left just 30 minutes prior in Palermo. Thankfully, by the time we had reached the outskirts of Cefalù, the black, angry clouds had moved on, leaving only blue skies and sunshine, which, as we descended the winding approach road, illuminated La Rocca (the great hill that rises dramatically behind the town) like a golden crown, while below a sea of terracotta roofs and white washed houses lay like a carpet in front of the vast, deep blue sea.

TIP: Rental car hire in Palermo airport is very, very cheap, and driving is by far the quickest and easiest way to get to Cefalù. We drove there, parked and returned to the car only at the end of our 7-night stay.

Cefalù has many charms, from beautiful sunsets and sandy beaches to its picturesque historic centre with a breathtaking Norman cathedral and delicious Sicilian food, which quite rightly make it one of Italy’s most delightful seaside destinations.

Unlike the modern beach resorts and lidos that have overrun picturesque fishing and seaside villages that punctuate Italy’s mainland coast, Cefalù has grandeur in its past. It was important enough that one of Sicily’s Norman rulers, Roger II, felt the calling to build a glorious cathedral here. And while its later history may have been less distinguished, there are still many substantial and elegant buildings, as well as architectural and culinary reminders of Sicily’s varied influences, not just Norman and Byzantine but also Arab, Spanish, and finally Italian. Nowadays, tourism is a big industry, and the modern town spreads out along the coast from the centro storico (historic centre).

Cefalù has everything we look for in our ideal coastal getaways: Beautiful scenery, a large beach, and charming streets with a lively atmosphere and (off season) the perfect mix of locals and tourists.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN CEFALÙ

One of Cefalù’s prime tourist hotspots is the sandy beach which stretches the length of the town, though visitors should be prepared to find the sands busy in the peak summer months of July and August and partially occupied by fee-charging beach lido’s. But when we visited in October the beach was peaceful and the sea still warm and inviting. Besides the sandy beach you’ll find a large concrete pier and breakwater which protects a small marina. Here young locals both sun themselves and dive fearlessly into the surf as large waves roll in from the sea.

If Cefalú looks familiar, it’s because it should as the seaside town provided the back-drop to one of the most beautiful Italian films ever made, Cinema Paradiso, for a list of my other favourite Italian films click HERE. The 1988 classic was shot on location at various points around Sicily including Palermo, with Cefalú starring in several of the film’s most memorable scenes. And Cefalù is about to star in another film, the upcoming Indiana Jones movie, and as luck would have we arrived just days before shooting started in October 2021. The town was a hive of activity, as the crew and art department feverishly transformed storefronts and piazza’s to the style of the 1960’s. (SEE IMAGES BELOW) And for one dramatic scene they even filled the cathedral square with sand.

Cefalù’s great historic attraction is the town’s Duomo, a handsome and imposing two-towered Norman cathedral. Begun in 1131, this mighty church dominates the rooftops of the centro storico. The building’s interior is decorated with lovely mosaics created by twelfth-century Byzantine artists: a large Christ Pantocrator on a gold background dominating the apse, above the Madonna, archangels and Apostles. These gleaming mosaics are one of Sicily’s greatest sights; if you want more, take a trip to Monreale, outside Palermo. Alongside the church is its restored twelfth-century cloister (admission fee), which is an atmospheric space lined with double columns topped by curious capitals depicting an odd range of scenes, from Noah’s ark to strange contortionists.

Towering above the Duomo and the town centre is the massive crag called the Rocca. It’s a steep ascent to the top of the hill (take a bottle of water and don’t attempt the climb in very hot weather) but it’s well worth the effort. Near the top you’ll reach the evocative ruins of the so-called ‘Tempio di Diana’ (temple of Diana), an ancient megalithic stone structure which was given a modernisation in the 5th-century BC in the classical Greek style. Around the summit of the Rocca are superb views and various bits of old fortifications, including a stretch of (reconstructed) battlements.

Back in town visitors can admire the picturesque harbour, alleys and medieval buildings. A Saracen wash-house, the Lavatoio, is another sight worth seeing, as is the medieval Osterio Magno, the remaining part of a large 13th-century palace. A rocky path winds along the shore below the city’s seafacing walls, and it is quite an adventure to clamber along and explore.

An important stop on any cultural itinerary is Cefalù’s town museum, the Museo Mandralisca. The collection is neither huge nor demanding, but it includes several gems, including a portrait by Antonello da Messina and a striking vase from the fourth century BC decorated with a fishmonger chopping a tuna fish; a sight you may well see today in Sicily’s fish markets. The museum’s latest opening hours and admission fee are listed on the official website.

Around Cefalù, places of interest include the Sanctuary of Gibilmanna, a hillside pilgrimage destination, the ruins of Greek Himera and the Monti Madonie mountains, where holiday-makers will find skiing in winter and good hiking in spring and autumn. Palermo is an hour away by train, and the volcanic Aeolian Islands can be reached by hydrofoil in the summer. A trip by bus or car to picturesque Castelbuono, in the hills, makes another pleasant excursion – buses operated by SAIS depart from Cefalù railway station and the journey takes 40 minutes. Local tourism agencies organise tours and excursions.

Not far from the town centre, there is a beautiful illuminated pathway that runs along the cliffs, a lovely place to relax, take the sun, take a dip in one of the many rock pools or simply watch the sunset. After this interesting immersion in art and culture, all that’s left to do is to find a good spot in front of the beautiful sea, order fresh fish, a glass of crisp Sicilian white wine and watch the days light end as the the illuminated harbour lights up the night.

WANDER, EXPLORE, GET LOST…

Guidebooks, tourism board websites, this blog. All of us list countless things to see and do in Cefalú, rated and presented in easily digestible chunks. But it’s not there, hidden between activity A and activity B that you will discover your love for this beautiful city.

No, it’s within its winding streets.

Naturally, any visitor will spend time tracing the steps of thousands before them along the popular Corso Ruggero, or Via Vittorio Emanuele, each offering up countless restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops (mostly the tasteful kind), we certainly did. But once you have orientated yourself, just wander. Cefalù is best appreciated through that serendipitous decision to go left and not right, through breaking off from the tourist throngs and seeing where your feet or your camera lead you. And whether it ends at the ocean or at a table with another Aperol spritz, I can guarantee it will have been a good day.

WHAT AND WHERE TO EAT

Food is culture, and tasting it is a good way to visit and learn about Cefalù’s history, And in our opinion the best way to discover the amazing cuisine is with a food tour with one of the local guides. We chose one of the airbnb experiences and had a wonderful guide named Ambra, She was young, fun and full of interesting facts and tips – We’d highly recommend her. For more info click here-Cefalu’s street food tour.

THE LOCAL DISHES TO TRY.

Taianu is a delicacy of the village it is basically pasta in a pot, seasoned with meat, fried aubergines, pine nuts, sultanas and pecorino cheese placed in layers in a large earthenware pot.

Panelle Sandwich (U’ Pane chi Panelle), is one of the most classic and oldest examples of street food in Cefalù. Economic and delicious you can easily find one of the many “Panellari” (Sicilian word for “Panelle Maker”) in almost every corner of town.

Arancini (or arancine) rice balls, the pride of Sicilian cuisine, can be eaten as a snack or served as an appetizer, first course, or even main course. You’ll find them everywhere in Sicily, at any time of day or year, always served hot and fragrant. Although their shape and size will often vary from town to town, from oval to pear-shaped or round, depending on the filling. There are around 100 variations on the arancino, from the most traditional, with ragu and ham, to the most original, like pistachio or spinach, and you’ll even find them baked! Our favourite’s came from  Antica Focacceria Sapori Siciliani a tiny storefront tucked in a side street where most all are made to order.

Sfincione is an exquisite rustic leavened product; typical street food of Palermo gastronomy. It is a kind of high and soft pizza topped with an onion sauce, Sicilian caciocavallo, oregano, anchovies and breadcrumbs. A unique rich flavor, delicious scent and a soft consistency like a “Sponge” with slightly crunchy edges! La Gallizza is a local favourite and they do lots of yummy local dishes but here is where you can indulge in the yummiest Sfincione in town.

Carne murata, this is definitely for the adventurous eater. This sandwich is built in layers with offal meat (liver and veal entrails), onions and potatoes and topped with fresh basil, oregano, pepper and squeeze of lemon. The locals love it, I on the other not so much.

Sicilian Cannoli-Now let’s move on to dessert. What’s better than closing a lunch with a Sicilian cannoli?The king of Sicilian pastry is made up of a fried wafer that is filled on the spot with a cream of ricotta to which you can add pistachio nuts or a few drops of chocolate.

Granita-If the cannoli are too much to close a lunch, then you could opt for a nice “granita”! Sicily is the home of the granita and you can choose from an infinite number of flavours: the fruit ones are excellent (The mulberry a favourite of ours), but you should also try the pistachio and coffee, the latter perhaps with a fresh cream topping! In Sicily in summertime it is customary to start the day with granita so don’t be surprised if at breakfast they offer it severed with brioche.

WHERE TO DINE

You are certainly spoilt for choice in Cefalu, you’ll find everything from tiny hole in wall joints to up scale 5 star restaurants. But I’ve select just a few can’t-miss spots to dine, drink, and feast from our week of culinary exploits.

Le Chat Noir – Rustic setting in a 16th-century building for classic & innovative Sicilian dishes & local wines.

Cortile Pepe – Among the narrow streets of the historic center, and just a short distance from both the Cathedral and the sea, you’ll find this charming eatery with a beautiful walled courtyard garden and equally lovely vaulted dining room. Here you’ll find traditional style Sicilian cuisine reimagined with in a refined and modern technique; the tasting menu is highly recommended.

B.I.F. Braceria Italiana Fuorimondo – This recently renovated stylish and elegant restaurant, is a meat lovers paradise. At BIF you will find the exceptional quality produce with prime quality cuts of meat from all over the world. All dishes are prepared to perfection either on an open flame grill or oven. We had one of the best meals of stay here. PS. GO HUNGRY the potions are enormous and great value.

Tatiana Melfa Bakery Garden– This cafe and bakery has a wonderful garden where you can enjoy their yummy homemade pastries and cakes. It’s also the perfect spot for breakfast.

Tinchite Taverna -This hip modern space is dedicated to the traditional tastes of Sicily, not just a Taverna but also a Putia (Deli or Bodega in Sicilian) where you can buy all kinds of yummy local meats, cheese wines and other delicacies. At Tinchitè their Sicilian cuisine is inspired by their grandmothers recipes. They also have a sister restaurant called Ittico Cucina & Co on the water front that serve great seafood and pizza.

Al Porticciolo – Charming seafront restaurant with a terrace, serving Sicilian meat & fish plates & creative pizzas.

Jureka Wine Bar – This lovely little wine bar just on the outskirts of town towards the port is perfect for an aperitivo or light dinner as they serve delicious charcuterie boards/bruschetta with lots of local meats, olives, preserves and cheeses. The service was fantastic, really friendly and you have an wonderful seafront view to boot.

TRAVEL TO CEFALÙ

Cefalù is within reach of the international airport at Palermo, for us in Umbria there are direct flights from Perugia airport that get you there in less than an hour. The two towns are connected by the Autostrada 20 and also by a railway line (with trains approximately hourly). Urban buses provide transport within Cefalù, and more bus services link the town with surrounding towns and villages. The railway station is in walking distance of the historic centre and beaches – to reach the Duomo, head right outside the station until you reach Via Matteotti, turn left and then just walk straight down this street, which turns into Corso Ruggero, the main artery of the centro storico.

It’s not a good idea to try driving right into the heart of Cefalù as most of the Centro Storico is restricted to permit holders – if you are taking a car to a central hotel or B&B, contact them first to ask for directions and parking information.

WHERE TO STAY IN CEFALÙ

Although the parking situation is a little less than desirable for long stays, don’t let that put you off making Cefalù your base for a few days in the north of Sicily – it’s ideally located for day trips and the small town has everything you need.

The first thing you need to note before booking your accommodation however, is that the vast majority of the large hotels and resorts listed on booking sites as being in Cefalù are not actually, well, in Cefalù. Instead, they’ll usually be around a twenty minute walk away. Absolutely not a problem if you want a summertime retreat for a week, but potentially less than desirable if you’re only in town for a couple of nights. Below you’ll find my picks for the hotels/B&Bs/Airbnbs that are centrally located.

HOTELS IN CEFALU

Agrodolce | Slap bang in the historic centre and only a few minutes walk to the beach, Agrodolce is a charming little B&B with a Mediteranean vibe. Great breakfast that can be taken on the pleasant little terrace. For more information or to check availability, click here.

Hotel Kalura | One of the out-of-town options, but Hotel Kalura is too beautiful (and popular) not to mention. Modern and stylish rooms with balconies overlooking the sea and access to a private beach. Comes with all that you would expect form a luxury standard resort hotel as well. For more information or to check availability, click here.

Azzurro B&B | Homely yet chic design, this small B&B has a great location in the old town (just a few minutes from the beach as well), and comes highly rated amongst guests. Exceptionally helpful staff and a great breakfast to boot. For more information or to check availability, click here.

Lirma B&B | Comfortable yet well designed rooms, a large outdoor area overflowing with plants and greenery, great staff and an excellent breakfast. It’s also well located for the old town and beach, only a few minutes walk to each. For more information or to check availability, click here.

AIR BnB IN CEFALU

We booked our stay with AIR BnB in a sweet little apartment just a short walk from the town center with a lovely sea view and its own little balcony to enjoy our morning coffee. You’ll be glad to know there are a good selection of alternatives stays on AIR BnB starting from 50 EUROS.

PALERMO PITSTOP

Visiting this complex city, caught between West and East for millennia, is a deliciously mad and intense experience. Full of dazzling buildings, hidden corners, chaotic markets and endless cups of espresso, the Palermo tourism experience is striking – even one day in Palermo will leave you with strong impressions and memories that last. 

The city is characterised by an interesting mix of cultures due to the various nations that have dominated Sicily over time. And as you walk the streets you’ll find architectural masterpieces with elements from Arab, Roman, Greek, and Gothic styles, Charming outdoor restaurants serving genuine Sicilian dishes, centuries-old markets full of fresh produce and an exciting street food scene. On top of that, if you visit off-season there won’t be many tourists which means you’ll hopefully get to experience the authentic local culture. 

Some of the places not to miss are the Cappella Palatina (Palatine Chapel), Palazzo dei Normanni, the Capuchin Catacombs and Mondello beach. To get a glimpse of authentic Sicilian life, head to one of Palermo’s street markets. The three main ones are Vucciria, Capo and Ballaro markets, the latter being the biggest and busiest of them all, and the one I recommend you visit. Be ready to have your senses stimulated because Ballaro is loud, colourful, and full of unusual (and not always pleasant) smells.

If you’re planning to spend just a day in Palermo then I would highly recommend a walking tour with ‘Tours by locals’, It is a wonderful way to get an informed overview of the city from a local, not a generic official tour guide. These locals offer many useful tips and information from their own personal experience.

Final Thoughts.

Even though Cefalu is considered one of Italy’s finest resort towns on which I concur, there’s more to do than just swim and sunbathe, especially in the off season. This lovely seaside spot with its Norman cathedral, medieval old town, archaeology museum, and delicious Sicilian fare makes it the perfect destination for a long weekend or a week long getaway. If you are considering a trip to Cefalù, do also reserve some time to explore Palermo you won’t regret it.

For more wonderfully easy getaways from Perugia airport check out my post Travel Ways.