OLIVE HARVEST UMBRIA

“The Olive groves were God’s first temples”- William Cullen Bryant

WHAT WE TALK ABOUT WHEN WE TALK ABOUT OLIVES

The exquisite red bricks of Citta della Pieve have, without a doubt, captured our hearts and led us to the enchanting region of Umbria. And how could we resist the allure of the landscape? The gentle rolling hills, adorned with majestic silver-leafed olive trees, whispered tales of ancient wisdom and tranquility. These resilient emblems of peace have stood tall for generations, gracefully gracing the picturesque Umbrian countryside. As the lively harvest season approached, a palpable sense of excitement filled the air of each quaint village. Every corner became a stage for conversations centered around the beloved olives. Whether strolling along the age-old cobblestone streets, savoring moments in cozy cafes, or stopping by the local petrol station, the collective passion for the olive harvest could be felt, forming a deep connection in the very fabric of Umbrian life. For more about this beautiful season check out my post AUTUMN MAGIC IN CITTA DELLA PIEVE.

The Trees

In folklore, the act of extending an olive branch has always been considered a powerful symbol of acceptance and peace. This ancient gesture dates back to the story of Noah’s ark, where a dove returning with an olive leaf signaled the end of the great flood. Here in the enchanting region of Umbria, this symbolic branch holds even deeper meaning.

In Umbria, the olive branch represents more than just peace. It is a symbol of longevity, abundance, and glory. Standing proudly in the picturesque landscape, the olive trees bestow us with their blessed fruit – the golden-green elixir known as olive oil. The hills of Umbria are adorned with six main varieties of olives: Dolce Agogia, Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino, Rajo, and San Felice. Each variety possesses its own distinct qualities and flavor profiles, adding richness and complexity to the olive oil produced in this region.

It is fascinating to discover that Italy boasts over 500 different varieties of olive trees, showcasing the exceptional diversity found in this beloved fruit. Some ancient olive groves in Italy have stood for hundreds of years, surviving the tests of time and still gracefully bearing fruits. These enduring groves seem to tell stories of generations past, connecting us to the land and history of this remarkable country.

With every drop of olive oil produced, Umbria shares its fruitful heritage with the world. This liquid gold not only enhances the flavors of countless dishes but also serves as a reminder of the rich traditions and cultural wealth that have been passed down through generations. So next time you gaze upon an olive branch, let it serve as a reminder of the beauty and abundance found in the charming land of Umbria, where prosperity and peace intertwine amid the ancient olive groves.

The care

Maintaining and pruning these splendid trees can be approached in different ways, each with its own charm and practical considerations. One approach is to allow the tree to grow naturally, with its branches reaching out in all directions, creating a lush and untamed beauty. The other approach is more romantic and practical for harvesting, as it involves carefully pruning the branches to cascade downward, making the fruit easier to reach. This method also ensures that sunlight can touch the heart of the tree and allows birds to freely explore its branches. Whichever method you choose to care for these resilient and timeless trees, one thing is certain: they will continue to grace the Italian landscape for generations to come, adding to its timeless allure.

Olive oil is an essential ingredient for “la dolce Vita”, it’s a staple of our community along with bread, pasta and fresh air.

The Talk

Ah, behold the momentous query of when to embark upon the noble harvest! Such a crucial determination that shall wield extraordinary influence over the very essence of hue, flavor, and fervor within the golden elixir! And let us not dare to neglect the capricious mistress known as weather, for in the wake of a scorching, parched summer, a gentle cascade of blessed rain becomes indispensable to plump the olives, yet with caution must we tread, lest the deluge transform them into mere pulp! Ah, and let us bewail the accursed “black fly,” that audacious intruder from distant lands, whose insidious deeds threaten to lay waste to our beloved olives, its nefarious eggs penetrating the very flesh of the fruit! In true Italian fashion, these matters of great import are engaged with fervent passion and enlivened discourse, consuming countless hours of spirited debate!

The harvest

Once the decision to harvest has been made, it’s important to consider the role of Mother Nature and hope for favorable weather conditions. Gathering a supportive group of friends, family, neighbors, or even serendipitous acquaintances can truly make a difference while embarking on this endeavor. Remember, their assistance and camaraderie can be invaluable during this time.

I understand that the business of olive picking may not be perceived as glamorous. It requires a lot of physical effort and can be quite demanding. However, there is a certain sense of satisfaction that comes from working hard in the midst of the picturesque Umbrian countryside, accompanied by good friends. Engaging in conversations ranging from politics to recipes adds a sense of camaraderie to the experience. At the end of the day, there is a genuine feeling of accomplishment and the notion that, in some small way, we have made things right in the world.

The Picking

Picking olives, ah, a timeless tradition. Like a dance between humans and trees, with nets as our stage and olives as the stars. Some choose to serenade the olives, gently plucking them one by one, while others prefer a more quirky approach, like using a plastic rake or a battery-powered contraption that could easily moonlight as a prop in a Tim Burton movie. It’s an olive extravaganza! And after a day of olive theatrics, we gather our bountiful harvest, load up our trusty vehicle, and off we go to the grand finale – the olive mill. Bravo, olives, bravo!

The Mill Experience (Frantoio)

These olive pressing Mills are often operated by local farming families, and for those not familiar with the farming community, they provide a fascinating glimpse into their world. These mills open sporadically for about 8 weeks between October and December each year. To mark the opening of the frantoio, a festive day is held where delicious food, music, and wine are generously offered by the owners.

Before visiting the mill with your precious olives, it is important to schedule an appointment. However, upon arriving at the designated time, you may still need to determine your position in line for pressing, which could entail waiting for several hours. As is often the case in Italy, adhering strictly to a regulated appointment system is not the norm. It is only after you secure your place in line at the mill that you can truly relax and engage in the time-honored tradition of gathering around an open fire, savoring bruschetta topped with freshly pressed oil and crunchy sea salt, and enjoying local wine while conversing about your harvest.

How much oil did you manage to yield? Did you harvest all of your trees? Are you considering selling your oil? Beneath the cheerful conversation lies a friendly competition to see whose oil will win the favor of the frantoio owner.

The Press

The olives are carefully weighed and gently tumbled through running water, ensuring that every single one is treated with utmost care. This process helps to cleanse the olives, removing any twigs or leaves that may have found their way into the batch. Once washed, the olives are crushed and milled to create a rich paste, brimming with flavor. This paste undergoes a melaxing process, allowing the precious oil droplets to be set free.

To separate the oil from the vegetable water and solids, the traditional method involved the use of presses. However, with advancements in technology, centrifugation has become the preferred method. This modern technique ensures a more efficient and precise separation. The entire process takes approximately 40 minutes, resulting in the creation of virgin olive oil: a vibrant, dense, and aromatic liquid that is untouched and unfiltered, preserving its pure essence.

For optimal results, it is recommended to let this freshly pressed oil rest in its barrels for an additional week. During this time, gravity works its magic, facilitating the final separation of any sediment. This patient approach guarantees an even higher quality oil, ready to be savored and enjoyed.

The wonderful thing about the olive harvest is the immediacy of it, unlike grapes where you have to wait for the process of fermentation to taste the fruits of your labour. Olive oil can be enjoyed as soon as it comes out of the press. In fact it’s required. 

Before leaving your account must be settled: You can either pay for the pleasure of having your olives pressed with oil or in cash. The mill owner will happily collect oil from customers by way of payment and then bottle it for sale under their own label or sell it in bulk to a larger commercial company. You may be at the Frantoio for many hours as the process is very organic and driven primarily by the weather and mood of the mill owner. However, if you have patience one thing is for sure and that is that it can be a wonderful experience filled with community spirit, camaraderie and cheer that typifies what small town living within a farming community is all about.

The E.V.O.O (The Extra Virgin)

No virgins were harmed in the making of this oil! It’s pure unadulterated goodness comes exclusively from its fruit and the organic process of extraction. Each Italian oil-producing region is distinct in flavour, colour and aroma. I may be biased but I do think the Umbrian oil is the best. It has notes of artichoke, fresh cut grass, bitter almond and aromatic herbs and is slightly fruity in taste with a nutty, peppery finish. Why not do your own taste test and purchase a couple of bottles of oil from different Italian regions and decide for yourself.

” I always have parmigiana-reggiano, olive oil and pasta at home. When most people get sick, they want chicken soup; I want spaghetti with parmesan cheese, olive oil and a bit of lemon zest. It makes me feel better every time” – Isabella Rossellini

For more wonderful Umbrian Dishes don’t forget to check out my post –THE UMBRIAN TABLE

Tips

A couple of things to note when buying oil: 1. Anything over a litre should be in a can, it will keep it’s freshness longer if not exposed to light or heat. 2. Always try to purchase oil that says it is made in a specific region i.e. Umbria, Tuscany etc… Or made in Italia. Olive oil labelled made in the European Union will most likely come from a mixture of olives grown outside of Italy and may not be as delicious.

Next time you dress a salad or toss your fresh pasta in olive oil spare a thought for all the hardworking farmers that toil, cultivate and harvest this humble fruit.

Buon Appetito