CYPRUS-BIRTHPLACE OF APHRODITE.

LAND OF SAPPHIRE SEAS, BOUGAINVILLEA AND ORANGE GROVES.

It was sunset on a late September day when our plane began its final descent into Paphos airport, from the window we could see the harbours ancient marble fortress illuminated by a dazzling, almost otherworldly amber light which bounced from the sapphire waves right up to our window as if guiding us home. Moments later after we touched down at the small airport and exited the air-conditioned cabin I was greeted instantly by the warming dry heat of this island, lifting my spirits and reminding me that summer wasn’t quiet over yet. This being my husband’s ancestral home he was equally thrilled as its a place he’s been lucky enough to visit regularly since he was a small child. And since moving to Italy I’ve had the pleasure of visiting this magical island several times, all the while benefitting from my husband’s insider knowledge. From secluded mountain monasteries and ancient Roman cities to mysterious shipwrecks and historic lighthouses and much more, details of which I will share in this article.

This island of legends and gods maybe the third largest in the Mediterranean but it’s just a third of the size of Sicily, and given it’s relatively compact size and modern motorway network it’s very easy to explore. And with it’s arid, parched landscape turning to lush forests and warm sapphire seas and golden sands rising up to the snowy central Troodos mountains it really does offer something for everyone . And then there’s the food, omg the food, delicious fresh fish and seafood, meats roasted over open flames, potatoes pulled freshly from the rich red earth, crisp salads and the best cucumbers I’ve ever tasted. All this is just a short and economic flight from Rome’s ciampino airport.

Although Cyprus is compact there is still too much to fit into a single post so in this article I will focus mainly on Paphos (Pafos as it’s know in greek) and the surrounding areas. This once capital of Cyprus is a strategic ancient port city steeped in Greek mythology and known as the mythical birthplace of Aphrodite. Although today its palm-fringed seafront and buzzy harbour have put Paphos on the beach-holiday tourist map there is still a sense of ancient timelessness in its crumbling ruins draped in brilliant coloured bougainvillea, backstreets leading to covered markets, medieval baths and catacombs. Whilst inland you’ll discover vineyards-carpeting hillsides, lush orange groves, ancient olive trees and herds of mountain goats.

PAPHOS-A BRIEF HISTORY.

Old Paphos, which was settled by Greek colonists in the Mycenaean period, contained a famous temple of Aphrodite and was not far from the legendary site where Aphrodite was born from the sea foam (Apparently legs up and splayed). The islands strategic position made it an important place to conquer and its notable that in Hellenic times Paphos was second only to Salamis in extent and influence. The Cinyrad dynasty ruled Paphos until its final conquest by Ptolemy I of Egypt (294 BCE). Old Paphos dwindled in influence after the fall of the Cinyradae, the foundation of New Paphos, and the Roman conquest of Cyprus (58 BCE). It was finally deserted after the 4th century BCE.

New Paphos, which had been the port town of Old Paphos, became the administrative capital of the whole island in Ptolemaic and Roman times. The city was attacked and destroyed by Muslim raiders in 960 CE. The modern town began to grow only after the British occupation in 1878. The harbour, centre of the city’s life, was improved in 1908 and 1959 but remains too small to handle large commercial traffic and thus serves only an active local fishing fleet. Despite economic difficulties arising from the settlement in Paphos of some 5,000 Greek Cypriot refugees after the Turkish occupation of 1974, by the end of the decade the city had become the focus of strong economic development, including an industrial estate and tourist hotels. The city’s manufacturing consists of small enterprises producing clothing, footwear, canned meat, beverages, and vegetable oils. In 2018 it was made the European city of culture and received a large injection of funds to restore and beautify the old town much of which has been returned to its former glory.

Best time to visit.

If weather is a factor in your travel plans, not to fret you can honestly visit Cyprus year-round and expect warmer temperatures than the rest of Europe. This makes it one of the most popular winter sun destinations! However, personally I think, the best time to visit is between September – October and May – June. These months provide excellent weather in the high 20’s/early 30’s and will ensure you avoid the crowds of the peak summer season.

As with most of Europe July and August are the hottest months of the year and also the busiest. Expect slightly uncomfortable temperatures in the high 30’s and higher accommodation costs.

Arriving and departing.

Paphos Airport is located approximately 14.5 kms away from the town centre, and from there you have two main transport options, bus or taxi. The two bus lines run 24/7, however, they aren’t super-frequent, Still, they are cheap at around 2 Euros per person with a journey time of about 50 minutes. Taxis are of course the most expensive option and are around the 35 Euro mark for with a 20 minute journey time. Taxis can be pre-booked, or taken from the taxi rank beside the arrivals hall. Private pre-booked transfers are available here: Paphos Airport Transfers.

Getting around Paphos.

If you’re planning a car-less holiday then Paphos is the place to go, especially if you stay near the harbour or the old town where most regular seaside activities are within walking distance. If you’d like to go further afield the Paphos bus service is very good and inexpensive. The large, air conditioned buses are modern, usually on time, and although run by different companies in each district the fares are standard: Single journey €1.50, daily ticket €5, weekly ticket €20, making this both an eco-friendly and economical way to get around. And if you would like to explore the mountains or other sites outside of Paphos there are lots of tour companies that offer day trips, one of the best reviewed is ECOTOURS ADVENTURES, who run both group and private tours.

By car and motorcycle.

If you’re thinking of exploring much further afield then renting a car is necessary, Or, if you’re not put off by their poor safety record, motorcycles, quad bikes, scooters or beach buggies. Car rental starts at around €60 per day in summer, €35 per day in winter – the longer the rental period, the lower the rate – but it’s worth prebooking and shopping around. And if you intend exploring the beautiful Akamas peninsular or remoter parts of the island, it is well worth splashing out on a 4WD, especially as normal rental agreements often exclude driving on dirt roads. 

By bike.

Cyprus’s mild climate is ideal for cyclists, though during midsummer the obvious precautions – helmet, sun cream, plenty of drinking water – should be taken. Paphos has many bike rental companies offering mountain, road and electric bikes. Rentals usually begin around €50 for three days or €100 for a week. A new cycle track has recently been established in the Troodos Mountains with nearly 60km of well-signposted surfaced and unsurfaced track, Also there is a picturesque path along the coast from the Paphos harbour to Coral bay (approx. 13km). 

The beaches.

Paphos has the longest coastline of any region in Cyprus and has a wealth of glorious beaches offering something for all tastes. From untamed dunes and undisturbed stretches of the Akamas Peninsula where sea turtles nest in the electric-blue bays to family friendly coves with sun-beds and umbrellas. It’s no wonder spending time by the sea is one of the top things to do here. With so many options I’ve simply chosen to provide you with a list of my five off-season favourites:

Best for golden sands and swimming: Venus beach.

This lovely stretch of golden sand is located between two hotels about three kilometres north of Paphos Town. Rocky wave breaks shelter the area, making it calm enough for safe swimming. There is a Lido area with sunbeds and umbrella’s to rent, free showers and an ice-cream van offering refreshments. You can either enter from the Venus beach hotel or the Blue lagoon Kosher hotel, also off road parking is available.

Best for Greek legends: Petra tou Romiou.

If you ask anyone what to do in Paphos, they’re likely to say visit Aphrodite’s Rock (Petra tou Romiou). According to legend this is where the Greek goddess of love and beauty rose from the sea (apparently with legs akimbo). It’s believed if you swim around the rock three times, you’ll be blessed by eternal beauty – although the turbulent sea and changing beach landscape prohibit this. The pebbly beach overlooks the picturesque rock and is best appreciated at sunset when you can enjoy an aperitivo from the quaint cafe adjacent.

Best for a relaxing escape: Polis.

On the north coast of Paphos, the little port town of Polis sits on the banks at the point where the Chrysochou river spills into the bay. Its unspoiled stretch of coast is home to a sandy beach with views of the Akamas Peninsula. There’s a campsite here for people who want to stay overnight, plus a clutch of very good restaurants serving traditional Cypriot cuisine and fresh fish from the days catch. It has a nice escape-it-all vibe.

Best for families: Coral Bay.

This horseshoe-shaped cove bites into the west coast of Cyprus, fourteen kilometres north of Paphos Town. Steep limestone cliffs shelter the bay, making it calm enough for safe swimming. Water-sports facilities include water skiing and diving, plus there are inflatables for younger ones. Parascending is also on offer. Thatched parasols and sunbeds dot the beach, which is lined with restaurants and bars. It’s one of the best beaches in Paphos for children. While it is quieter outside of peak season, even in the summer it’s possible to stake a claim on a patch of sand. A 13th-century BC settlement, Maa-Paleokastro, can be found at the northern end of the beach.

Best for wildlife-spotting: Lara Bay.

Further north along the coastline, Lara Bay is a remote sliver accessible only by 4WD. It’s a beach of natural wonders: providing an ideal habitat for nesting loggerhead and green turtles from May to August. While you must not disturb the creatures or the nests, the Lara Bay Turtle Conservation Station welcomes visitors who want to see rescued hatchlings paddling about in large tanks and to learn about environmentalism. And a top-tip: The old lady who runs the rickety cafe hanging onto the cliffside beside the bay makes the best cakes!

Things to see and do.

Obviously it’s a Mediterranean island so the beach is the star, but what to do in Paphos after you’ve bathed in crystal clear waters, relaxed on the sandy blue flag beaches and eaten your fill of the island’s fabulous food? Well, Paphos has a myriad of attractions for lovers of archaeology, history and culture from the Tombs of the Kings, a Unesco World Heritage Site to the 12 museums in the old town. For sports enthusiasts, it offers a variety of water sports and what’s more, you can go horse riding, cycling or hiking in the nearby countryside or along the coast. There’s literally something for everyone, Below you’ll find my picks for a fun day out in and around Paphos:

Tomb of the Kings.

If you only visit one archaeological site in Paphos, it should be the Tomb of the Kings. This remarkable collection of underground tombs are carved out of solid rock and feature beautiful mosaics which date back to the 4th century BC. There is some debate as to if actual Kings were buried here and it is currently thought, that they were only high ranking officials. Still, it would be a testament to the power of this civilisation if bureaucrats were entombed in such an extravagant manner.

Top-tip: If you decide to add a visit to the Tomb of the Kings you should allow at least a couple of hours as this is one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe. It is hot and affords no shade, so avoid the peak heat of the day, and bring a wide brimmed hat and plenty of water!

Kato Paphos Archaeological Park.

History lovers will enjoy Paphos Archaeological Park, one of the most important sites in Cyprus. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a top tourist attraction, Either visit alone or take a private guided tour.

The Mosaics.

Some of the Mediterranean’s most impressive and best preserved mosaics can be found at Kato Paphos Archaeological Park and were accidentally discovered by a farmer out ploughing his fields in 1962. Five Roman villas are also on the site although little remains other than a few pillars, low walls and foundations. The colourful Roman mosaics are the stars and show scenes of ancient Greek mythology and everyday life.

Take a Boat Trip.

The crystal clear waters of the Blue Lagoon make for a wonderful day trip. Companies offer a variety of options and provide hotel pick-ups which make the whole experience seamless. Swim in the Blue Lagoon, snorkel, canoe and explore the sea caves. From deck you can relax and take in the scenic Akamas Peninsula and the picturesque Latchi harbour. Many of the tours also include a buffet lunch and open bar.

Viator has many different tours on offer-click here for more info-VIATOR

Explore Paphos Old Town.

Paphos was voted the European Capital of Culture 2017 and with European funds the old town enjoyed a huge makeover. The pedestrian zone was expanded and the municipal market sells everything from fruit and vegetables to clothing, pottery, jewellery and souvenirs. The periphery of the old town sits high on a hillside and many of the cafes and restaurants bordering the old town offer spectacular views of the coastline. Also seek out the street art or check out local handicrafts at THE PLACE CYPRUS.

Free daily walking tours of the old town are offered by the municipality, For more information click: OLD TOWN WALKING TOURS.

Hiking and Mountain Climbing.

The terrain in the vicinity of Paphos makes it ideal for adventure-seekers whose idea of exploring a new place is biking, hiking or mountain climbing. The nearby Akamas Peninsula and the Avakas Gorge have well signposted trails and afford some of the best views in Cyprus! A couple of hours from Paphos the island’s own Mount Olympus, at almost 2,000m above sea level, provides an impressive focal point amid the cooling pine and cedar forests of the Troodos mountains where you will also find some spectacular churches. Ten of which have been awarded World Heritage Status in recognition of their detailed and vibrant Byzantine frescoes.

Agios Neophytos Monastery.

Located about 9km north of Pafos (Paphos), the monastery of Agios Neophytos was founded by the Cypriot recluse and writer Neophytos in the second half of the 12th century, in what used to be a secluded location at the head of the picturesque valley. The hermit carved a cave out of the mountains called the ‘Enkleistra’, which is covered with some of the finest examples of Byzantine frescoes that date back from the 12th to 15th centuries. The monastery has a noteworthy ecclesiastical museum and its later church also contains some of the finest Post-Byzantine icons dating to the 16th century. It is the most serene, peaceful, beautiful place to relax and reflect. And in the height of summer if you are in need of some cooling this monastery complex is the place to be and enjoys a micro-climate all of its own. There is also a great little cafe under the shade of some grand old trees where you can enjoy delicious Cypriot delights such as Mahalebi – this is a traditional Cypriot pudding is made with water or milk and corn flour served over ice and rose flavoured water. A word of warning- try to avoid going on Sundays or religious festivals as they are usually mayhem, always very crowded with church goers and parking is close to impossible.

For cat lovers: Just before you reach the monastery there is a wonderful cat sanctuary and refuge, where volunteers care for hundreds of the unusual, long legged cats unique to Cyprus that one would imagine found their way here with the Egyptians. You will find images of these beauties on lots of tourist souvenirs around the Island. For more info or to make a donation click the link here: THE TALA CAT SANCTUARY.

Food and Drink.

Traditional Cypriot dishes merge the influence of all its conquerers, and whilst not too far removed from typical Greek cuisine familiar dishes will generally feature a ‘twist’ in flavour and presentation.

Cypriot cuisine.

This yummy cuisine is aromatic and flavoursome, with influences from the Middle East, Turkey, and Greece. Locals linger over shared plates of mezze, followed by classic dishes that draw on the bounty of the land. The absolute best way to get acquainted with Cypriot food is to order a meze platter; this will likely include many of the local specialities and served with a variety of breads and dips. The traditional dips include tzatziki, which is made from yogurt with peppermint and cucumber, and taramosalata, which is pink and is made by combining cod roe, potato puree, lemon, onions and oil. Also, it’s worth noting that a meze will undoubtedly include halloumi cheese char-grilled over an open flame, and unlike halloumi from anywhere else in the world, as it often comes from the milk of local thyme-fed goats.

Other dishes you’ll find are souvlakia (grilled meat kebabs), sheftalia (grilled sausage), afelia (pork marinated in coriander and red wine), calamata olives, pitta bread, kolokasi (root vegetables), lamb souvla, steamed artichokes, chickpeas and rabbit or beef stews (stifado) packed with onions and wine, also the Pasticchio, layers of pasta, a rich cinnamon-spiked red wine meat sauce, topped with a thick cheesy béchamel sauce baked in the oven until set then served in huge squares.

Cypriot wine.

The history of winemaking in Cyprus can be traced back around 6,000 years. Vineyards in Cyprus are mainly concentrated in two areas: Paphos and on the southern slopes of the Troodos mountains. Cyprus has its own indigenous grape varieties, predominantly Xinisteri for white and Mavro and Maratheftiko for red. The best way to discover Cypriot wines is to go on a tour and a great place to start is the Kolossi Castle, where its surrounding vineyards are responsible for the island’s best – and oldest – wine: Commandaria. Some other great wineries are Vasilikon in Kathikas and Vouni Panayia in the eponymous village. If you happen to visiting during the harvest season in October and November you’ll find myriad of wine events the best being in Kilani just outside Paphos for there annual grape festival. They also have a dedicated wine-trails details of which can be found on this link: THE WINES AND WINERIES OF PAPHOS.

Cypriot coffee.

Coffee, just like Italy and Greece is an art form in Cyprus. Cypriot coffee is prepared with fine grounds that are heaped into a tall, narrow pot known as a briki which is then plunged into red hot sand in a special trough and brought to boil, Just as one might imagine the nomads did in the desserts of the Middle East or Africa. The coffee is very strong with foam on the top called a kaimaki and served with the coffee grounds at the bottom of the cup. The different ways to order it are (“glyko”) which is served extra sweet, (“metrio”) black with just a hint of sweetness, or (“sketo”) black and sugarless. It’s the perfect way to begin the day or finish a meal accompanied by a shot of ouzo.

FAVOURITE SPOTS TO EAT.

Where to stay in Paphos.

Paphos has a range of accommodation to suit all needs and budgets. That said, if you want to visit Paphos in the peak months booking well in advance is advisable. I’ve found that Booking.com is a good site to research accommodations, but do cross-reference on other sites as sometimes prices for the same property on the same dates can vary dramatically. Also Airbnb is great if you’re looking for a private Villa or self-catering stay. And for something completely different book a stay at Yurts of Cyprus: Where you will be allocated one of their quaint Mongolian fully loaded yurts for a total off the grid adventure. This unique sustainable and ecological Bed and Breakfast is set high in the hills in a rural valley just outside Simou village in Paphos.

See you in sunny Cyprus.

You are now armed with an arsenal of cool places to eat, drink and explore and I hope I’ve inspired you to visit the beautiful island of Cyprus. Go for the sunshine, go for the culture, go for the food, honestly, just go!

If you have any other questions about Cyprus, be sure to send me a message or comment below.

Looking for another fab Mediterranean Island to visit check out my post about the simply sensational Sardinia.

Buon viaggio a tutti.