2. SARDEGNA: A TRIP TO BOUNTIFUL

WHAT TO SEE AND DO.

Cagliari.

The island’s largest city sits on the shores of a wide bay, its historic center extending up from the seaside at Via Roma to the hilltop Castello quarter.

Given its geographical location, Cagliari’s port is central to the city’s whole identity. Over the years its strategic position has meant that trade here has been plied with the Phoenicians, Lebanese African’s and more.

However, as is so often the case, A successful and prosperous port city attracts hostile intent. A history dating back to the Roman times reveals incursions and invasion by Vandals, Goths, Saracens and latter cessions to the Aragonese. Cagliari also suffered heavy bombardment during World War II. But today it is at peace and enjoys the heritage that has made it a true melting pot of cultures and cuisines. And, as we found is the ideal jumping-off point for exploring the rest of the southern coast.

Eat + Drink + Watch.

During aperitivo, head to Bastione di San Remy, the citadel at the top of the Castello district. Order an Aperol Spritz at Caffè degli Spiriti , a quartet of glass-​enclosed pavilions surrounded by umbrella-​shaded tables that draw sophisticated locals.

If the weather isn’t cooperating, the Antico Caffè  is an old-world haunt with vaulted ceilings, black and white tiled floors, and cozy leather banquettes. Or try the year-old Cucina.eat, a chic gourmet shop that doubles as a bar and restaurant come nighttime.

Our favourite was Agriturismo Il Bombo d”oro, in fact we went there several times on our first trip. It is hidden away behind large domed greenhouse down a very unlikely bumpy gravel road. It’s well worth seeking out as with only a fixed-price, multi-course daily menu you will get to try lots of delicious typical specialities and drink agreeable local wine, It’s great value for money but don’t forget to bring a very big appetite.

Do.

Tour the historic center’s Baroque limestone churches—Sant’Anna (Via Domenico Alberto Azuni) has a particularly lovely and recently restored façade—then venture underneath the cathedrals of Santa Restituta and Sant’​Efisio (both on Via Sant’Efisio) to the cavelike early Christian chapels.

The Palazzo Vicaregio is worth a stop for its decorative interiors (gilded mirrors; fresco-​adorned ceilings; damask-covered walls). Afterward, head to the Cittadella dei Musei (Piazza Arsenale) to see the Pinacoteca gallery and National Archaeological Museum, which displays artifacts from Sardinia’s pre-Roman nuraghic civilization.

The Poetto coastline in the heart of Cagliari is an 8 km stretch of beach from Sella del Diavolo up to the coastline of Quartu Sant’Elena. The entire stretch of the Poetto beach is a broadwalk, and can be explored by foot or bicycle. The sea water is clear and the seabed sandy and shallow for tens of metres, thus being ideal for children to play. There are plenty of kiosks and restaurants near the shoreline that offer refreshments and entertainment. Bathrooms and showers are also available, with some places reserved for dogs. The other draw here are the salt flats that run parallel with part of the shore known as Saline di Quart. Here they were once used to mine salt but nowadays is a nature reserve that attracts thousands of pink flamigoes that come to nest each year.

Shop.

The AB Factory whose name pays tribute to the famous “Silver Factory” by Andy Warhol is a venue which looks to suport culture, art, artists and creativity and is dedicated to exploration, research and artistic experimentation. The philospy they have adtoped is that all art should be affordable so it’s definatly worth checking out.

The bookshelves at La Libreria di via Sulis are stocked with art, design, and photography books from the likes of Rizzoli, Taschen.

On Largo Carlo Felice, Bonu is a one-stop shop for regional wines and edibles such as crisp white Vermentino and nut-​studded nougat.

For high-end Sardinian souvenirs, swing by I.S.O.L.A., where you’ll find objets décoratifs by local artists. A highlight: iron sculptural works by Roberto Ziranu.

Villasimius.

A colorful village east of Cagliari: Here, the broad Via Umberto gives way to beaches, resorts, and a marina, all fronting a protected marine reserve. Villasimius is a charming fusion of picturesque architecture, hip nightlife and historical culture. This former fishing village is nowadays the nexus of summertime activity on the Costa Rei coast with a string of stunning beaches and secluded bays that make this coastline one of the most beautiful in Sardinia. Shopping fans will be delighted with the plethora of pretty little shops offering everything from designer fashions to local patisserie.

The piazza at the heart of the village unveils the authentic, Mediterranean character of Villasimius – and inspired Ernst Jünger to write his novel Am Sarazenenturm back in the 1960s. Dating back to the 17th century, the old Fortezza Vecchia stands proudly over the harbour. Today, it plays host to regular art exhibitions. 

Eat + Drink.

Start the evening at Baccusardus, a food and wine store that turns into a lively bar around 7 pm. Order a glass of the house red, Monica di Amabile, from its private label.

In town, the glass-​walled Sa Tankitta (240 Via Umberto I; 39-​070/​791-338) serves traditional fregula, a large-grained Sardinian couscous, topped with shrimp and octopus.

At Panificio Frau (bakery) you find lots of deliciuos typical Sardi baked goods and is great place to pick up a paninni for the beach.

By the beach, there’s Bar Ristorante Il Miraggio, with tables that spill out onto the sand.

Don’t miss the all-natural gelato at the gelateria Chiccheria, back in Villasimius. The black-mulberry granita and vanilla almond are standouts.

Do.

Il Museo Archeologico di Villasimius is located in the heart of the centro storico on Via Frau. Here you can admire archaeological artifacts from the surroundings of the rural church of Santa Maria, once the location of a Roman bathhouse. In addition, you can marvel at the relics found at the necropolis. However, the most beautiful room is probably the one devoted to the sea, Mare. This room is devoted to all the relics and treasures found off the Villasimius coast including the booty discovered in the Medieval shipwreck of the coast of Isola.

The beaches closest to town are the wide, pristine Simius and Notteri, and the family-friendly Porto Giunco, where the Delfino Club rents Jet Skis and Windsurfers.

Charter a vintage sailing yacht from Maby Mare (from $100 per person) to explore the islands of Isola di Serpentara and Isola dei Càvoli.

The region has great diving, thanks to its location on the marine reserve. Learn the ropes with a lesson from Subaqua and explore this wonderful underwater world.

Shop.

Koros Enoteca is a charming little wine shop where you can find some yummy Sardinian salumi, cheeses, pastas, preserves and of course wine. Plus on Wednesdays and Thursdays between 7 & 10pm you can do wine and cheese tastings.

Rey (76 Via Umberto I), for woven leather clutches and hobo bags.

Anna Segreto, which specializes in pibiones—hand-embroidered Sardinian wool rugs—and tablecloths in cotton and linen.

Costa Rei.

The region of Costa Rei is a littel further north of Villasimius and is a largely residential seaside town where private villas cling to the hillside hidden amongst gentle cliffs. The star here is the seaside. They say in Sardinia ‘If you don’t like the beach just walk 50 meters and you’ll find a new one’ And that statement could not be more true in Costa Rei. Here you’ll find every sort of beach you could imagine from powderey white sand to coves of volcanic rock and almost everything in between. The main street in the town center is serviced by a handful of bars, restaurants and hotels, there are a couple of supermarkets, a very popular butchers and a bakery that serves delicious Sardi pastries. The beauty of Costa Rei is that everything is built within a stones through of the beach.

Eat + Drink.

For a casual alfresco lunch or dinner—a Fregola with seafood broth and red prawns—​ I reccomend the stylish Lido Tamatete which is a glass walled eaterie that sits right on the beach and is located just a short drive from Costa Rei in Cala Sinzias.

La Bottega Pane e Vino (Via Marco Polo, 7) located just off the main strip in Costa Rei is a delightful low-key Bottega. The food is simple, delicious and well made. The standout dish for us was the Maialetto, one of the best we ever had. The staff were attentive and the overall atmosphere was charming in a rustic beachy way. It’s also the perfect place to pick up a panini, bottle of local wine or some scrumptous sardi meats and cheese to take to the beach. Sadly we only found this gem on the last night of our holiday – And then we delayed our departure the following day so we could slip in a quick lunch before we left, Yes – the food was that good!

Dream Costa Rei (Via delle Rose)  became our go to place for apperitivo, located right on the beach it’s the perfect spot to end the day and enjoy a cool glass of vermentino and some yummy bites. It’s open all day and also offers sunbed service on it’s private beach, And jet Ski, paddle board or canoe rentals.

In addition to resturants we also visited a couple of local Agriturismo’s –Il Nuraghe and Praidis, Both give you a prix-fix set-menu’d taste of authentic Sardinian cuisine. These working farms are family run with mum cooking in the kitchen and the kids serving out front, The food is uncomplicated and often features traditonal family recipes. They are also great value costing between 30-40 Euros per person: Which includes 6-7 courses, wine ( red and white), water and coffee, So go hungry.

It’s also worth mentioning that you can also stay overnight at theses Agriturismo’s for an immersive farm experience.

Do.

Among Costa Rei’s top beaches is the golden-hued Cala Sinzias, where the club Lido Tamatete has slick, white-cushioned chaises and a buzzy cocktail scene with live music in the evenings. Here you can rent sunbeds and umbrellas on their private beach with full service from the restuarant.

There is also a wonderful, easy coastal trek with stunning views that takes you from Costa Rei to Cala Sinizias. Alternatively, you can walk along the beach, although you may have to traverse some rocks at high tide or swim around them. One word of warning: Do pay attention to the lifegaurds as the sudden rip-tides in this cove can be treacherous.

Shop.

Thursday and Saturdays they have a lovely little pop-up market where you can find local goodies from wines, cured meats, cheeses and fruit and vegetables. You can also pick up some Sardi handicrafts like the Pibiones (woven linens) for much less that you would pay in a retail shop.

If you don’t make it to the market you can always pick something from the guys on the beach who sell everything from hats, towels and beach blankest to inflatable toys and games. These colorful charecter’s are a staple on most of the beaches in Sardinia and bizarrely will show up on even the most secluded ones. But don’t forget to haggle….

Pula.

Is the main coastal town and located about 25 kilometres southwest of Cagliari. Pula is primarily a holiday resort and is close to the ruins of the ancient city of Nora which is among the most important archaeological sites in Sardinia. Pula itself is charm personified, with low sqaut spanish style buildings washed in coral pink and orchre. Along with cobble stoned streets festooned with coloured flags which gives it an almost South American or Mexican feel. This town is serviced by authentic one-​off boutiques and alfresco restaurants and on most summer nights locals mix with tourists in the Piazza del Popolo to enjoy live, free concerts.

Eat + Drink.

Sardinians flock to Fradis Minoris (Laguna di Nora; 39-070/920-9544) for the fresh-caught fish. Let the chef guide you through the daily tasting menu, which may include barracuda with squid-ink sauce. This picturesque restaurant overlooks the water of the bay, between Agumu beach, the promontory of Nora lagoon.

At Cucina Machrì, a white-on-white dining room provides the backdrop for innovative seafood dishes such as nutty flavored black rice with sweet red shrimp, followed by monkfish confit.

The low-lit Su Furriadroxu  serves hearty staples in a quiet courtyard shaded by palm trees.

Do.

Take a guided tour of the nearby ancient port city of Nora, stopping by the medieval Chiesa di Sant’Efisio.

Every Tuesday, just outside the charming town of Pula in Southern Sardinia, farmers, cheese makers, honey producers and their ilk, gather for the weekly market, their stalls overflowing with succulent fruits, plump vegetables and tasty treats typical of Sardinia

Shop.

Davide Sessa creates custom leather sandals, along with wide-brimmed hats and belts made from local cork.

For regional crafts such as colorful ceramic dishware and handwoven baskets, head to Arte Sarda di Sollai.

Chia.

Chia has some of the most stunning beaches in Sardinia, curving arcs of pale gold, powdery sand set off by turquoise lagoons where pink flamingos flock in early summer. All this beauty does draw a crowd, there is little else to do here in Chia as a result the beach were brimming with people. The other thing to note is the parking area was quite a hike from the beach. This was my least favorite beach excursion, It felt like more of a scene to be seen in rather than a place to relax.

Eat + Drink.

The laid-back Trattoria da Angelo (Domus de Maria, 39-070/923-6363) sits inland, but it’s worth the short drive for a taste of the seafood risotto prepared by Angelo’s wife.

Il Poseidon is one of the only beach bar and restaurants right on the seafront in this area. It’s only a 11 minute drive from Chia in Turredda and is a local hot spot for aperetivo. They also provide full beach service including: sunbeds, deck chairs, pedal boats, boat rentals and trips, showers.

Try the wood-beamed Mirage for crowd-pleasers such as salmon with wild fennel. Caveat: tables fill up quickly, so arrive early.

Cala Gonone.

This region is known as Supermonte and boasts 225 square kilometres of wilderness, one of Sardinia’s largest and most beautiful areas, known for both its hinterland with its mantle of fragrant woods and for its gorgeous coast and emerald seas.

Turning from the highway (SS125) you pass through a tunnel in the mountainside and descend a narrow, winding road to Cala Gonone, Itself famous for its stunning coves and inlets. This is a destination for nature lovers, adventure and romantic boating excursions. Among the many Coves that make up this area you’ll find beaches of golden pebbles and coarse colorful sand that are perfect for finding shells and sea glass.

The town itself is set a little way up from the sea on a clifftop and is known for its archaeological remains and craftsmanship. The characterful streets of the historical centre are peppered with houses made of volcanic rock and restaurants that cling to the cliff side offering dramatic ocean views. Boutiques featuring delicate filigree jewellery and ceramics that, along with rugs, exemplify the artisanal vocation of this town are plentiful. 

Eat + Drink.

Hotel Cala Luna is the perfect spot for an aperitivo with two delightful ways to enjoy the wonderful view and a cocktail. The Skybar Cala Luna is located on the top floor of the hotel. It is open to all from 3:30 pm to midnight. With a great selection of cocktails, national and international wines and the best view of the Gulf of Orosei. The buffet aperitivi is included in the drinks and starts at 6:30 pm and continues until 8:30 pm.
The second option is The Cala Luna Lounge bar which is located right in front of the hotel, above the Cala Gonone beach.

Ristorante Il Pescatore (Lungo Mare Acqua Dolce 7) this charming restaurant is run by a family who arrived in Sardinia in the 1920’s from the island of Ponza, when Cala Gonone was still a tiny village of just a few houses. They taught the locals the art of fishing and began preparing and serving their daily catch to the towns folk. Today you’ll find a crisp white dining room with vaulted ceilings and an outside terrace that overlooks the gulf. The seafood is the star here, especialy the crudo.

Along the stretch of sea front in Cala Gonone there are a string of restaurants with outdoor seating on terraces that overhang the cliff edge, Their kitchens are seperate and can be found accross the coastal road and the experienced waitstaff must dart back and forth deftly dodging traffic with bowls of steaming pasta and mountains of raw fish or dirty dishes. Ristorante Snoopy is one such restaurant and where we had a very enjoyable lunch, It is moderately priced and serves pizza’s, local pasta dishes and fresh fish.

Do.

Cala Luna, which borders on Baunei, is one of the Mediterranean’s most enchanting beaches and definately worth the trek to visit it. You can reach it by boat or a strenuous hike. This alluring cove is graced with a beach of powdery sand and surrounded by blooming oleander trees. It was the setting for the Lina Wertmüller cult film Swept Away.

There are many guided boat excursion from Cala Gonone, But I recommend the famous natural Grotte del Bue Marino. It is a series of grottoes that are home to ‘forests’ of stalagmites and stalactites, An underground saline lake and once dwelling of the Monk seal. also during the Cala Gonone Jazz fest, the grotto becomes the venue of a truly unique and spectacular concert.

And finally, Don’t miss a visit to the Acquario di Cala Gonone for a truly up-close and personal experience with the mediterranean sea life.

“Sardinia is out of time and history.”

D. H. LAWRENCE, SEA AND SARDINIA, 1921