CHRISTMAS IN ITALY: DISCOVER ALL THE ITALIAN TIDINGS AND TRADITIONS

CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON LIKE AN ITALIAN.

Throughout Italy, in winter, the air becomes crisp and fills with the comforting smell of wood-burning chimneys. It is a time for heartwarming holidays, with delicious food cooked over open flames and cozy firesides. The country transforms into a magical wonderland at night, with tall Christmas trees decorated with shining ornaments and twinkling lights everywhere. Storefronts are alive with enchanting displays, and lively holiday markets grace the charming town squares. Locals can be seen wrapped in festive shawls and scarves, gathering around traditional stoves on street corners to enjoy vin brulé and roasted chestnuts. If you want an old-fashioned Christmas experience, Italy is the perfect place. While the holiday season in Umbria has become more commercial over the years, some of the region’s charming traditions still remain, making a winter getaway or festive retreat in Italy’s green heart truly unforgettable, especially when the land is covered in a delicate white snow in December.

Discover the most enchanting towns to visit this year in my latest post, 12 Towns of Christmas 2023! Embark on a merry adventure and let the spirit of Christmas guide you through these 12 extraordinary towns filled with festivity, warm hospitality, and breathtaking landscapes!

The festive season in Italy begins on December 8th, called the Day of Immaculate Conception. Italian families decorate their homes, put up Christmas trees, bake cookies, and wrap gifts with love. Schools and government offices close during this time. The streets are beautifully decorated, and holiday markets open from November until January 6th, which is Epiphany. This day remembers the visit of the Three Wise Men to Bethlehem, when they brought gifts for Baby Jesus.

Important dates during the Italian festive season.

• DECEMBER 6: La Festa di San Nicola – The festival in honor of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of shepherds, is celebrated in towns such as Pollutri with the lighting of fires under enormous cauldrons, in which fave (broad beans) are cooked, then eaten ceremoniously.
• DECEMBER 8: L’Immacolata Concezione – celebration of the Immaculate Conception
• DECEMBER 13: La Festa di Santa Lucia – St. Lucy’s Day
• DECEMBER 24: La Vigilia di Natale – Christmas Eve
• DECEMBER 25: Natale – Christmas
• DECEMBER 26: La Festa di Santo Stefano – St. Stephen’s Day marks the announcement of the birth of Jesus and the arrival of the Three Wise Men
• DECEMBER 31: La Festa di San Silvestro – New Year’s Eve
• JANUARY 1: Il Capodanno – New Year’s Day
• JANUARY 6: La Festa dell’Epifania – The Epiphany

Below, you will find some of the most significant events and traditions that define Christmas in Italy. And if you want to fully immerse yourself in the genuine essence of an Italian-style Christmas, we warmly invite you to spend the holiday season with us at GROVE COTTAGE.

NATIVITY SCENES (PRESEPE).

It’s truly a magical experience to wander through the streets of Italy during the holiday season. Everywhere you turn, you’ll come across beautiful creches, ranging from small, simple manger scenes to grand, intricately designed villages complete with flowing water fountains, crackling cook fires, and moving figurines.

It’s astounding how every shop window, church alcove, and piazza showcases its own unique version of these charming scenes. What truly warms your heart is the hidden creativity that emerges from the usually reserved Umbrian neighbors during this festive time. Some of them dedicate days on end to gather stones, bark, moss, and fine sand, crafting rolling landscapes filled with tiny statuettes of shepherds, washerwomen, market hawkers, and the Holy Family. These humble yet awe-inspiring works of art are not to be missed.

The live nativity pageants, known as “Presepe vivente,” hold a special place in the hearts of the locals. They were first organized by St. Francis of Assisi in the quaint town of Greccio back in 1223. The historical connection to this tradition, combined with the picturesque medieval stone hill towns of the region, make it seem as though these towns were purposefully designed to resemble a live nativity pageant.

When you attend these events, it’s truly worth bundling yourself up against the nippy night air. You can wander through the torchlit streets, enjoying the cozy atmosphere with the delightful combination of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine in hand. Just a stone’s throw away from Città della Pieve, you’ll discover a captivating live Presepe in Monteleone di Orvieto. This enchanting display takes place after sunset on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and the Epiphany. Meanwhile, in Citta della Pieve itself, a fabulous Presepe awaits you. It has been meticulously crafted with extraordinary detail and often embraces a modern theme, such as climate change. The Presepe winds its way through the underground catacombs of the Palazzo della Corgna, adding a touch of mystique to the experience.

THE SHOOTING STAR.

The shooting star is said to have guided the 3 wise men to baby Jesus and has become a Christmas symbol that can be seen adorning the tops of trees and projected onto grand buildings. It can also be found in sculptures that grace the piazzas. One of the most famous is erected every year in Verona – The enormous metal star has been displayed in Piazza Bra since 1984 and has become an integral part of the Christmas experience in Verona. The structure is 70 meters high and weighs an astonishing 78 tons.

THE CHRISTMAS TREE.

In Italy, the arrival of this cherished symbol in the late nineteenth century brings a sense of joy and togetherness. Thanks to Queen Margherita of Savoy, who graced the Quirinale Palace in Rome with a beautifully adorned Christmas tree, a trend quickly swept across the entire peninsula.

Here in Umbria, we can proudly claim two of the world’s largest Christmas trees. One stands tall on the slopes of Monte Ingino, overlooking the medieval town of Gubbio. Every year, the town comes alive with a breathtaking lighting ceremony that has been a cherished tradition since 1981. Crowned with a magnificent star, this towering tree measures an astounding 750 meters in height and proudly earned its place in the prestigious Guinness World Records in 1991.

The majestic tree is adorned with 300 vibrant green lights, outlining its grandeur for all to see. As you step closer, you’ll be enchanted by the interior embellished with 400 dazzling multicolored lights. What makes each light truly special is that they have been lovingly “adopted” by locals, dedicating them to their cherished ones. From heartwarming messages celebrating the arrival of newborns to heartfelt tributes honoring dearly missed grandparents watching over, each light holds a personal story, connecting the community in a tapestry of love and remembrance.

The second destination you can visit is located nearby, in the charming village of Castiglione del Lago, which offers stunning views of Lake Trasimeno. There, you will find ‘Luci sul Trasimeno’, a mesmerizing creation consisting of 165 nine-meter supporting poles placed in the lake bed, forming the shape of a Christmas tree. This remarkable installation has set the record for the Largest floating Christmas tree in the world, as recognized by the Guinness Book of Records. With a length of over one kilometer and adorned with 2,600 perimeter lights connected by seven kilometers of electric cable, it is truly a sight to behold. Make sure to visit and immerse yourself in the magical ambiance of ‘Luci sul Trasimeno’.

WREATHS AND MISTLETOE.

Laurel leaves are a cherished symbol during the Christmas season in Italy. They are lovingly hung as wreaths (known as “una ghirlanda natale d’alloro”) to bring good fortune, and placed on tables as a centerpiece. This beautiful tradition has its roots in ancient Rome, where the pagan god Ianus (Janus) was honored on January 1st. People would exchange gifts of figs and dates, accompanied by the presence of laurel leaves.

In the Christian tradition, the Advent wreath holds a special place. It is typically placed on a table rather than the front door, as it signifies the anticipation of the birth of Jesus Christ. Crafted with evergreens to symbolize eternal life, the wreath’s circular shape represents endlessness. The holly leaves remind us of Christ’s crown of thorns, while the berries represent his precious blood. The wreath is adorned with four candles, usually three purple and one pink, resembling the vestments worn by priests during this sacred time. Additionally, a fifth white candle, symbolizing Christ as the light of the world, is often lit on Christmas Eve. Interestingly, in Italy, it is still customary for graduates to receive a laurel wreath to wear on their heads as a symbol of accomplishment, success, and wisdom. This time-honored tradition serves as a reminder of their achievements and highlights the value of education.

Kissing under the mistletoe has a long and fascinating history, adding romance and warmth to the holiday season. This tradition is believed to bring love and protection, especially for couples. It originated from ancient pagan rituals and has become synonymous with Christmas. In pagan times, mistletoe symbolized love, prosperity, and fertility. With the arrival of Christianity, this tradition merged into the Christian custom of kissing under the mistletoe. Mistletoe grows on trees in a unique and ethereal way, adding to its heavenly significance. While this tradition is generally linked to Christmas, there are slight variations in timing around the world. For instance, in Italy, people exchange kisses under the mistletoe on New Year’s Eve for love and good fortune in the upcoming year.

A TIME TO GIVE BACK.

Throughout December Italians organise charity food collections for families in need. You may see volunteers hand out empty shopping bags in the local supermarkets which you can use for food products purchased especially to hand back to the volunteers. Italians buy what they can afford and no-one looks into the bag when it is handed back, thus making it a more personal and discreet way to donate.

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING.

When you are gift shopping in Italy, it is usual for the sales person to offer to gift wrap your purchases for free. And, though it takes time you’ll be delighted with the results as they use quality patterned paper, raffia bows and gift tags even for the smallest item. And you’ll notice that if a huge queue piles up behind you, no-one moans or complains, as everybody expects to be given the same festive treatment.

While the big Christmas sales in England and America traditionally start on Boxing Day (26th December), in Italy the winter sales start around 5th January. This way you can focus on the festivities for as long as possible and still have a couple of days to spend at the sales before going back to work.

Sending Christmas cards is not as popular in Italy as it is elsewhere as most families and relatives see each other often. Another reason could be that Christmas cards are rather expensive with a simple card from the local supermarket costing anything from 2.90 euro upwards, also postage is not cheap. Better to spend the money on panettone and pandoro!

THE ITALIAN GIFT BEARERS.

And what about the gifts? Is it Santa Claus, Santa Lucia, San Nicola or Jesus who delivers the presents in Italy? Nowadays Italy has their own portly gentleman in red with a jolly face and long white beard – Babbo Natale! He is the Italian equivalent of Santa Claus. All these derive mainly from the same historical figure: St Nicholas, Bishop of Myra (today Demre, a city in modern-day Turkey).  It’s said St. Nicholas found and brought back to life three children who had been kidnapped and killed by an innkeeper, and from then on he was considered the Protector of Children. As in other countries, children write letters to Babbo Natale. But Italian kids can also send letters online or in hard-copy free of charge through Poste Italiane (Italian Postal Service), and are assured of a reply.

In Venice, there is even a Santa Claus Regatta where people dressed as Santa compete in small traditional Venetian boats along the Grand Canal from San Marco (Pieta) to Ca Foscari. The regatta is traditionally held in the third week of December. There is also an accompanying water parade and children have the opportunity to meet Santa and his elves on Santa’s own boat.

Whilst you are here in Città della Pieve, it’s heartwarming to experience the festive spirit with the ‘Babbo Natale’ Christmas band parading through the streets of the old town, dressed in Santa costumes and joyfully playing holiday classics. Italy has embraced the tradition of Babbo Natale (Father Christmas), but it’s interesting to note that different regions have their own unique customs. In northern Italy and some parts of the south, children eagerly anticipate December 6th, which is St. Nicholas Day (La Festa di San Nicola). On this special night, gifts are exchanged in celebration of the beloved and revered saint. St. Nicholas, who lived between the III and IV centuries AD, passed away on December 6th, 343. This significant date was later chosen as the day to honor him. Today, his relics are preserved in the city of Bari, where he has been revered as a patron for countless centuries.

Saint Nicholas, who is remembered as a man of immense kindness, was always ready to assist the poor and the unfortunate. The saint’s popularity has led to the creation of the beloved figure of Santa Claus, as mentioned earlier.

Likewise, in Bergamo and Verona, children celebrate on December 13th in honor of Santa Lucia. Her name is derived from the Latin word “lux,” meaning light. Santa Lucia (or St. Lucy, as she is known in English-speaking countries) is celebrated as the bringer of light during the dark and cold winters. Children typically write letters to the saint, expressing their good behavior and deserving nature of a gift. As a token of gratitude, they leave hay, milk, or carrots for her donkey, as well as a cup of coffee with bread and biscuits for Santa Lucia herself. Interestingly, a parent’s relief lies in the fact that children easily fall asleep on this particular night. According to belief, if the saint finds them awake, she may sprinkle ashes and blind their sight.

There was a time, in a less consumer-driven era with fewer global influences, when it was even Jesus Christ himself who traditionally bestowed presents upon Italian children.

MASSES AND MUSIC.

Christmas season masses are held on December 8th and 26th — the Feast of Saint Steven and January 6th. But of course the most poignant and beautiful Masses are those at midnight on Christmas Eve. The festive atmosphere, seasonal music (many have special Christmas music programs during the Mass), and pretty evening lighting make it worth the lost sleep. Even if you are not drawn to Mass, you can enjoy wonderful classical music in many of the same cathedrals during their Christmas concerts — usually held in the afternoon a few days before or after the 25th. Otherwise, if the thought of one more carol or Handel piece is more than you can bear, shake things up a bit at either the winter edition of the famed Umbria Jazz Festival — held in Orvieto each holiday season.

ASSISI – THE FATHER OF CAROLLING.

Only church officials had been encouraged to sing carols prior to the time of St. Francis. In 1223, however, the saint placed a creche (miniature Nativity scene) in a hermitage at Greechio, Italy. After this, many churches began displaying such scenes at Christmas and soon, people began to act out the events of the Holy Night. The actors composed Christmas carols to sing during their Nativity plays and, later, would stroll through the streets still singing, from which carolling came to be.

By the Middle Ages, wandering minstrels were traveling from hamlet to castle performing their carols. Later still, villages had their own bands of “waits.” Waits were originally watchmen who patrolled the streets and byways of the old walled cities, keeping guard against fire and singing to while away the night hours. During the holiday season, the waits would include carols in their repertoires. Eventually the term was used to describe groups of musicians who sang and played at various civic events during the Christmas season. The town of Assisi still retains this tradition during the festive season, the town is illuminated in a magical lights display as well as a market with wondering carollers.

CLAP ALONG TO THE ZAMPOGNARI.

Think bagpipes are a purely Scottish phenomenon? Not so much… Here in Italy you’ll also hear their unmistakable tones as you walk through markets around Christmastime. The musicians known as Zampognari will be dressed like shepherds, wearing sheepskin vests. The Zampognari would historically be mountain folk who would arrive from the hills to celebrate Novena – the nine-day period before Christmas when the shepherds journeyed to the baby Jesus’s manger. They take their names from their instruments – zampogna. This tradition can manly be found in the south but can be seen in some rural towns as far north as Bologna, in fact the Umbrian town of Spello has a festival of medieval and traditional Christmas music and bagpipes every year. Another Christmas tradition in southern rural areas, is for children to go from house to house dressed as shepherds and perform Christmas songs or poems during Novena, often in exchange for money or sweets. 

THE CHRISTMAS FEASTS.

Around the World Christmas centres around delicious foods. And here in Italy where food is king and every mealtime a feast the Italians excel. From antipasti to dessert, from breakfast to dinner, and from Christmas Eve to la Befana day, Italians prepare special treats. Here are some of the more popular:

On an Italian Christmas Eve—only fish, please! According to tradition, the meal for Christmas Eve, La Vigilia, doesn’t have any meat. It’s all about fish and vegetables. This is in line with the customary practice of enjoying a giorno di magro, a light day of eating that helps purify the body for the holiday. However, whether the fish dishes served can truly be considered “light” is a different story altogether!

One classic dish for Christmas Eve is capitone (eel), although nowadays, more common fish options include baccalà, octopus, and shellfish. In Rome, a well-loved local delicacy is pezzetti—fried cubes of ricotta or pieces of artichokes, zucchini, or broccoli. In Naples, it’s not uncommon to start the meal with a sautéed mix of broccoli and seafood.

Then, of course, come the pasta dishes. These also vary across regions. In the north, particularly in Lombardy and Piedmont, lasagna is topped with anchovies, parmesan, and seasonings. In Naples, it’s vermicelli served with clams or mussels.

If you thought we were talking about a mere 3-course meal here, think again. Traditionally, it goes way beyond that… but fret not, there’s a theological reason behind this indulgence! Seven courses might be served to symbolize the 7 sacraments, 9 for the Trinity (squared), 12 for the apostles, 13 for the disciples with Jesus, or a staggering 21 (yikes!) to represent the Trinity multiplied by the 7 sacraments. So, on Christmas Eve, take it easy and savor each dish, knowing that the following day is the grand Feast.

On Christmas day, the table is filled with a delightful array of appetizers. There’s the refreshing seafood salad, the succulent fresh salmon or tuna fish, and the delectable shrimps with cocktail sauce. Of course, we can’t forget about the assortment of cured meats and salumi. As for the second course or pasta, it truly depends on the region. However, the most renowned options are tortellini in broth, lasagne or pasticcio – just like the ones grandma used to make. Following the pasta, it’s time for the roast meats. Lamb, pork, and goose are the usual suspects, accompanied by seasonal vegetables.

No Italian Christmas lunch would be complete without the famous sweet treats. There’s the traditional Veronese buttery sweet yeast bread called pandoro, and the tall Lombardian sweet bread enriched with raisins and dried fruits known as panettone. And to satisfy our sweet tooth even more, we indulge in classic Italian nougat, fabulous Perugino chocolate, and homemade cookies like the hazelnut biscuits known as baci di Dama from Turin. Christmas in Italy truly is a feast for all the senses.

The holidays menu wouldn’t be complete without mentioning one essential item that Italians treasure at every meal: wine! It truly adds that special touch to any dining experience. And fortunately, we have an exquisite selection of wines to suit every occasion.

For a Christmas roast, you can’t go wrong with a superb Brunello di Montalcino or a Super Tuscan red, like Biondi Santi or San Polo. If you prefer a white wine that pairs well with a variety of dishes, consider the delightful Umbrian grechetto or trebbiano. Alternatively, a Piedmont Arneis from Castello di Neive or Ceretto would also be an excellent choice. And for a celebratory “Cin Cin” moment, sparkling wines such as Franciacorta (Bellavista, Ca’ del bosco, or Ricci Curbastro) or Ferrari Trento DOC are the perfect choice. Lastly, let’s not forget about the Vin Santo, the traditional Tuscan and Umbrian dessert wine that pairs wonderfully with panetone or cantucci.

If you’re unable to experience Italy’s traditional Christmas foods firsthand during the holiday season, why not consider visiting a food festival or Christmas market instead? These festivities are adorned with enchanting stalls filled with handicrafts, regional delicacies, and of course, wines, including the famous vin brule’ (mulled wine). It’s a wonderful way to immerse yourself in the holiday spirit and savor the delights of Italian cuisine.

RINGING IN THE NEW YEAR ITALIAN STYLE.

The New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner is a wonderful tradition filled with an array of delicious treats from various regions. One can always find two mainstays, the Zampone and the Cotechino, accompanied by lentils. The symbolization behind these dishes is truly charming – the abundance of lentils is believed to represent the money that will come our way in the coming year. So, the more lentils you eat, the more money you’ll make! To conclude this delightful feast, dried fruit and grapes are served. It is said that having grapes on the table on New Year’s Day will bring good fortune, as those who partake in them will have financial prosperity throughout the year. Such traditions add a touch of magic and anticipation to the festivities!

GOING OUT WITH A BANG.

In Italy, the arrival of the New Year is met with an explosion of joy and excitement. The sky is painted with a dazzling display of firecrackers and fireworks, illuminating the darkness and filling hearts with anticipation for what lies ahead. As the clock strikes midnight, Italians come together to exchange warm wishes and embrace the tradition of kissing their loved ones under the mistletoe. And what better way to toast to new beginnings than with a glass of the finest Italian sparkling wine? Let the bubbles of joy and hope fill your glass, as you raise it high in celebration of the possibilities that await in the coming year. Cheers to a magnificent New Year in Italy!

RED KNICKERS!

The color red holds great significance when it comes to bringing good fortune. It may sound surprising, but wearing a red undergarment on New Year’s Eve can symbolically help ward off negative energy and ensure a positive start to the upcoming year. However, there are a few important things to keep in mind. Firstly, the red undergarment must be new and received as a gift; it shouldn’t be something you purchase for yourself. So, be sure to add it to your Christmas list! Additionally, there’s no need to worry about availability, as lingerie stores will be filled with an array of red undergarments, suitable for both men and women, right after Christmas.

THROWING OLD THINGS OUT OF THE WINDOW.

Even though it used to be way more popular, the tradition of throwing old belongings out of the window is probably one of the oldest Italian New Year’s traditions. Practiced throughout Italy, but considered Neapolitan in its essence, this tradition was a way of letting go of past unhappiness on New Year’s Eve. Today, most Italians have abandoned this practice, and those who still observe it do so inside the house, against a wall or on the floor. (Disclaimer – if you do decide to throw anything out of the window, please be mindful of your surroundings. I cannot be held responsible if an unlucky passer-by gets hurt.)

NEW YEAR BINGO.

During Italian New Year’s parties, guests often find joy in playing a beloved game, known as ‘Tombola’, which for you and I, is simply bingo. This delightful game has its origins in Naples, way back in 1734. It was the king of Naples and Sicily, Charles III of Bourbon, who had the ingenious idea of making the lottery game, known as ‘lotto,’ accessible to the public. Up until then, it had been a clandestine affair in the Kingdom. The purpose was to bring it into the open and regulate it in order to collect taxes and ensure a substantial source of income. Such intriguing history behind this entertaining game!

The Dominican friar Gregorio Maria Rocco opposed the game of lottery, considering it deceptive and amoral. Despite his opposition, the game was eventually legalized in Naples by Charles III, with the condition that it be suspended during Christmas. However, the game became deeply ingrained in Neapolitan culture and was adapted into a year-round board game for families to play. Lotto and tombola remain popular in Italy, with players selecting five numbers between 1 and 90. Superstition and the interpretation of dreams are associated with guessing the numbers. The Smorfia, a famous association of images and meanings to each number, is used to interpret dream images and determine which numbers to play. The Smorfia has an ancient tradition rooted in the Jewish Kabbalah and is believed by many to be the key to becoming a millionaire.

BEFANA AND HER WITCHY WAYS.

The holiday season in Italy concludes on January 6th, known as Epiphany day or “giorno della Befana”. During this special night, children eagerly await the arrival of the Befana, a legendary character from Italian folklore. According to the tales, the Befana is depicted as an witch-like woman who gracefully descends on a broomstick, symbolizing the act of sweeping away the old year and welcoming a new one filled with hope and happiness.

Similar to the beloved Santa Claus, the Befana travels through chimneys, leaving delightful surprises for children. These surprises can range from sweets and chocolates to a lump of coal, depending on the child’s behavior throughout the year. However, in the charming town of Città della Pieve, a unique tradition takes place. A high wire is stretched from the cathedral tower to the town square, and the Befana, embodied by a courageous fireman dressed as a witch, exhilaratingly zips high above, showering the piazza with a cascade of candies. The joyful screams of the children fill the air, making it a truly awe-inspiring spectacle.

The celebration of Epiphany in Italy is filled with enchantment and delight, as families come together to bid farewell to the holiday season and embrace the promises of a new beginning. It is a cherished tradition that brings joy and excitement to both young and old, creating beautiful memories that will be treasured for a lifetime.

ITALIAN SEASONS GREETINGS.

Now that you have learned more about how Christmas is celebrated, I want to share with you some delightful Italian holiday greetings. To wish someone a Happy Christmas, you can say “Buon Natale” (Natal-eh) in Italian, or “Bon Natali” (Natal-e) in Sicilian. If you happen to be in the South Tyrol region, where Ladin is spoken, you can wish people a “Bon/Bun Nadèl” (Nad-ell). And if you simply want to wish someone a happy holiday, you can say “Buona Festa“. As for the new year, you can extend your well wishes to your family and friends by saying “Buon anno” or “Felice Anno Nuovo“. Enjoy spreading joy with these lovely phrases!

Stay tuned for my annual holiday gift guide. And wherever you find yourselves this holiday season I wish you good health, happiness and a wonderful New Year.