A MONTH OF MONDAYS IN FLORENCE.

MY ADVENTURES IN LEARNING ITALIAN AND LIVING LIKE A FLORENTINE.

In my post ITALIAN WAYS I mentioned that in November 2021 we spent the month in Florence whilst attending an intensive Italian language course which also afforded us the opportunity to live as locals and discover a different, more intimate side of this beautiful city that I’d like to share with you:

The city of Florence always conjures thoughts of the Renaissance, with its stunning architecture and beautiful art work crowned by the most famous jewel of Florence -The Duomo, with its extraordinary terracotta-tiled dome engineered by Brunelleschi and a bell tower by Giotto. Not forgetting its six bridges spanning the wide river Arno including the dazzling Ponte Vecchio packed with glittering jewellery boutiques. Then there’s the Galleria dell’Accademia where you’ll find Michelangelo’s “David” sculpture and the breathtaking Uffizi Gallery home to Botticelli’s “The Birth of Venus” and da Vinci’s “Annunciation.” And not forgetting The Medici’s, the Italian banking family and political dynasty that rose to prominence under Cosimo de’ Medici in the Republic of Florence during the first half of the 15th century and went on to create the Florence we know and love today.

But its history and ancient architecture are just one aspect of this intriguing city, scratch the surface and you will also find a vibrant, hip, young and diverse sub-culture. The truth about Florence is it can be mercilessly jam-packed with annoying fanny-pack wearing, stroller-pushing, T-shirt-buying tourists especially in the warmer months (present company accepted). But fear not, I discovered that there are many places to escape the selfie snapping mobs where you can hang with the locals.

EUROPASS LANGUAGE SCHOOL.

Europass is an online and on-site Italian language school based in Florence, Italy.

How Hard Could It Be To Learn A New Language After 50?

As Aristotle famously wrote, ‘The more you know, the more you realise you don’t know.’ And that couldn’t be a truer for me. I had thought that with my years of Youtube tutorials, duolingo and private tutors combined with a months intensive Italian language course in Florence, I’d return to our beautiful hilltop town and be able to dazzle our Italian friends with my language skills. Hmm… Not so much. Prior to the intensive my Italian was passable, I could happily jolly along understanding most of what was said and respond in a hap hazard way but be understood. However, after my first lesson in a proper school I came to realise that on a good day I spoke like a 7 year old and on a bad day like an infant.

So the big question is, post course is am I now fluent in Italian? Unfortunately no. I came to think that perhaps learning a new language proficiently at 50 was going to be an insurmountable challenge and maybe I was passed my prime age for learning. But after conducting some research I discovered that there really is nothing holding me and all of you 50 and overs back- You just have to do the work and Practice, practice, practice. You need to speak Italian constantly – After all, Do you remember how long it took you to speak English the way you do today?

But the good news is that the AARP advise, that older learners have some advantages: They are not only motivated to learn, but they have acquired study strategies, mnemonic devices, literacy skills, and other resources to make learning easier. Plus, learning a new language is great for the brain– it actually develops new neural pathways, makes new connections, adds flexibility. And who among us couldn’t use a few new neural pathways?

So, is it worth taking an intensive language course? I hear you ask. Si, it certainly was. Thanks to our teacher I came away with a clearer and more cohesive understanding of the language and its nuances. I also learned that If you approach study with just a sense of obligation and without a sense of humour you’ll end up frustrated, They don’t say ‘Rome or should I say Florence wasn’t built in a day’ without reason.

THE ITALIAN LANGUAGE.

The birth of the modern Italian language, it is thought to have began in central Tuscany and was first formalized in the early 14th century through the works of Tuscan writer Dante Alighieri, written in his native Florentine. Dante’s epic poems, known collectively as the Commedia, to which another Tuscan poet Giovanni Boccaccio later affixed the title Divina, were read throughout the peninsula and his written dialect became the “canonical standard” that all educated Italians could understand. Dante is still credited with standardizing the Italian language. In addition to the widespread exposure gained through literature, the Florentine dialect also gained prestige due to the political and cultural significance of Florence at the time and the fact that it was linguistically an intermediate between the northern and the southern Italian dialects. Thus the dialect of Florence became the basis for what would become modern Italian language although most regions still had their own dialect. It wasn’t until the advent of television and standardized schooling in the late 50’s when the tuscan dialect was formally adopted by the nation.

INSIDE FLORENCE:

THE FLORENTINE MAGAZINE.

The first thing I would suggest is picking up a copy of THE FLORENTINE. A free monthly English news magazine packed with all the goings on in and around the city, as well as interesting articles with artists, expats and the like. You can find it in most cafes, coffee shops or news stands. If you want to get the low down before you arrive then simply follow them on all the socials or subscribe to their newsletter just click the link here: https://www.theflorentine.net/

GETTING AROUND. 

Florence is an easy city to get around and the neighbourhoods are well connected thanks to the great public transport system. This means that you’re never going to be further than a couple of bus or tram stops away from the buzzing city centre

But if using public transport to get around is not your thing or your feet were just not made for walking… 

Don’t despair Florence is a bike friendly city with lots of pedestrianised areas. You can rent a bike easily with RIDEMOVI. An amazing and economical bike share company with a myriad of pick up and drop off locations throughout the city. It’s simple to use just down load the APP, up load a payment method, scan the barcode and ride. They have standard or electric bikes as well electric scooters. But if you’re planning to explore the outer reaches of Florence then a Vespa rental is probably your best option. You can rent easily with local companies like Ti MOVE and BIRD both of which have an easy to use APP.

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY.

Part of the allure of a big city is the variety of eateries serving International cuisine, Of course everyone loves Italian food but once in a while it is nice to have the option of trying something different and Florence did not disappoint. See below for my top picks:

HELPFUL HINTS.

I can most definitely recommend downloading the restaurant booking app THE FORK it’s free, very easy to use and has access to restaurants all over Europe and Australia. Besides being convenient they also have great discounts to many of their restaurants, sometimes with up to 50% off, all their offers are exclusively available with the app. And the application of the discounts is seamless and requires no discussion.

Another handy tip is when looking for an Italian eatery, and this goes for all Italian cities, towns and villages, try to avoid any place that calls itself a restaurant instead opt for Osteria’s, Trattoria’s or Pizzeria’s which tend to be cheaper and more authentic.

TO SLEEP PERCHANCE TO DREAM.

Over our month of Mondays we managed to stay in a myriad of accommodations, I began to feel like I was suffering from a goldilocks syndrome, some had great rooms and terrible beds while others had great beds but noisy neighbours and some that were just right.

Palazzo Galletti – Florence b&b

Following a sympathetic restoration, Palazzo Galletti was transformed reopened as a boutique B&B in 2004 and offers spacious bedrooms overlooking a peaceful courtyard.

Palazzo Galletti, in the neo-classical style dates back to 1831, It was designed by the architects Vittorio Bellini and Antonio Catelani, for the printer Vincenzo Batelli, to house in a modern chalcography studio. Located in Florence’s historic heart at 12 via Sant’Egidio, Palazzo Galletti B&B is a 10-minute walk to the Duomo and the church of Santa Croce.

The Duomo Rooms.

Located in the historic center of Florence, just steps from the Duomo, the B&B Le Stanze del Duomo and 10 minutes from the Santa Maria Novella station. Each room is beautifully appointed and some have amazing views of the Duomo. The staff are friendly and helpful. I’d request a room overlooking the inner courtyard as the Main Street can be noisy. (And Eataly is right downstairs, so skip their breakfast and use the savings enjoy something better)

Villa Tortorelli.

Villa Tortorelli is located minutes from Florence’s most important cultural attractions and immersed in peacefulness of the private garden. The villa has been recently painstakingly restored to its former glory with beautiful frescoed ceilings, mosaic floors and marble walls and furnished with 18th and 19th century antiques making it a truly magical place to stay. They also offer a wonderful breakfast and the possibility of internal parking. This villa was a last minute find and we had wished we found it earlier as it was simply divine.

FASHION AND SHOPPING.

Florence is a shoppers paradise with outlets to satisfy all tastes from fancy department stores like Rinascente with its wonderful roof terrace to famous designer stores like – Ferragamo, Gucci, Cavalli – And for vintage lovers an exceptional array of interesting pop-up stores, boutiques and markets which add to the richness of the fashion scene. Whilst the name brand stores are easy to locate below are two of my favourite vintage outlets:

STREET DOING VINTAGE COUTURE.

Inside this fabulous shop you will find the most prestigious designer accessories and clothes from the 1920s onwards. The owners have painstakingly sourced and researched each garment and will guarantee their authenticity. Gianfranco and Giovanna are always on hand to tell you about the origins and history of every piece, and They can even tailor the garment so it fits perfectly. They also pride themselves on having an extensive knowledge of all the most famous and influential Florentine fashion houses, so much so that their shop has become an important reference point in the Italian vintage world, and a go to hub for many renowned magazine stylists, costume designers, artists and general fans of vintage fashion.

FASHION LOVES YOU.

FLY is the creative learning lab of the students of Fashion and Accessories Studies and Technology
at Florence University of the Arts. The retail space is open to the public and features high quality vintage, consignment, and emerging designers.

ART.

Renaissance art may not be everyone’s cup of tea. But don’t be fooled into thinking that’s all Florence has to offer. You’d be surprised by the amount of beautiful fashion museums, street and contemporary art galleries you can find. For those interested in exploring the prominent, young and emerging talents of the contemporary art scene.

A great place to start is at the Palazzo Strozzi which at the moment is featuring the works of Jeff Koons and Forte di Belvedere who often host more prestigious contemporary art exhibits, while museums like the Galleria dell’ Accademia and Palazzo Vecchio are known for integrating modern creations into their historic collections. Besides these larger exhibits around the city, you’ll find a number of spaces dedicated to promoting and exposing Florence’s contemporary art world. Below you’ll find a small selection to help get you started. But for a complete list of galleries and upcoming exhibitions check the THE FLORENTINE MAGAZINE.

Biagiotti Progetto Arte.

Opened back in 1997 as a contemporary gallery, the Biagiotti Progetto Arte is situated in the heart of the historic center in a 17th century palazzo. Captained by Carole Biagiotti, the gallery turned into a private non-profit foundation in 2012 and promotes young and emerging talents from a myriad of artistic backgrounds – from the visual to the graphic arts, including photography, paint, sculptures, installations and street art. 

C2 – Contemporanea 2.

C2 was the studio of the artist Antonio Lo Pinto who organizes, curates and presents contemporary art projects. Today, it presents itself as an independent space and an alternative reality to traditional art galleries. Born in 2011, C2 Contemporanea collaborates with galleries, public and private foundations and cultural institutions. Since its inception, it has hosted projects by young and emerging artists as well artworks by great artists

OUTDOOR ART.

Another Florentine treasure are the open-air museums. From Piazza della Signoria to Clet’s funky signs adorning the streets, Florence is home to a wide range of places with art in the open air. If you’re looking for some greenery and modern art, you can opt for places like the Terzo Giardino, a strategically overgrown garden area that boasts striking modern sculptures and a unique view of Florence. For more outdoor arty fun don’t miss these beauties below.

ROSE GARDEN.

More up the hill, near the famed Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence’s beautiful Rose Garden offers visitors a special treat: ten bronze sculptures by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon, an interesting pairing to the idyllic 19th-century garden. Here, you’ll also find a beautiful Japanese Shorai oasis, a gift from Florence’s sister city, Kyoto, which gives your European art tour a splash of East Asian flair.

ARIA ART GALLERY.

Hidden by a lush garden in the heart of Florence is another contemporary indoor/outdoor treasure: Aria Art Gallery. This trendy space moved to Florence in 2009 from its original Pietrasanta location. Wander through a historic tropical garden (from 1534) to enter a vibrant exhibition space. Here, besides contemporary exhibitions, art fairs, events and performances, you’ll find works by masters of the past and present, including Andy Warhol, Amedeo Modigliani and Carole A. Feuerman. Contemporary Florence is unique in its blending of the past and present; this gallery successfully transmits the best of Florence’s rich history with its blossoming contemporary art world. 

THE ODEON CINEMA.

The Odeon Cinema was another of our great discoveries, this stunning screening room has been a main stay of cinema in Florence since the beginning of the twentieth century. The Odeon with it’s grand hall which recalls the glorious movie houses of yesteryear has played host to all the best films, famous Italian and international actors and directors and many historic events since its inauguration in 1922. To view their full program of films and upcoming events click the link here. THE ODEON

THE HOODS.

Just like any major city Florence has its fair share of neighbourhoods some more famous than others. To help you navigate some of the the less tourist-worn routes I’ve curated some of my favourite neighbourhoods where you can discover the fun, fresh, urban Florence where the locals hang.

Oltrarno.

Across the Arno river the Oltrarno district breathes true atmosphere of Florence and is made of small shops, artisans and artists (goldsmiths, painters, printers, restorers, shoemakers …), trattorias and cafes. Despite the area’s liveliness of the area, Oltrarno is a quiet place to stay. The prices are generally lower than those in the central area of the city. Something to keep in mind when looking for accommodation in Oltrarno because of the narrow streets it’s a good idea to try and find rooms on the upper floors of the buildings to be able to get some sun and have less street noise. The district is made up of many smaller neighbourhoods each with its own unique atmosphere, I’ve listed my favourites below:

San Frediano.

Narrow streets and tiny sidewalks, small artisan shops and local bars, mixed with the newest pubs and restaurants, creating a village atmosphere where you can taste the Florence of the past whilst experiencing the vibrancy of the present which makes San Frediano the coolest neighbourhood in Florence.

Le Murate.

Le Murate is a part of the city with a modern, international and hip spirit. Le Murate was once a prison but after it closure it had been given urban redevelopment that resulted in a multi-purpose complex: a center for contemporary art and culture, offering exhibitions, workshops and other artistic and cultural activities focusing on contemporary themes and styles; A literary café, a place to drink a coffee or sip a happy hour drink while participating in one of the planned events: Readings, debates, video showings, exhibitions of art and photography, live concerts and family activities; as well as a restaurant, apartments, offices and businesses, all in a framework tinged with a Central European flavour.  The Murate complex is located in the heart of the historic district of S. Croce, is bordered by via dell’Agnolo, via Ghibellina and viale Giovine Italia and overlooks piazza delle Carceri and piazza Madonna della Neve.

San Niccolò. 

Located on the south bank of the Arno river, the San Niccolò neighbourhood is the upscale part of the city. This area of Florence has completely preserved its medieval atmosphere, resembling a small Tuscan borgo with still intact cobbled streets and massive walls of the 13th century. It is a district of contrasting vibes. Near the Arno the streets are lined with laid-back restaurants and wine bars, and in warm weather, locals set up parasols and deckchairs along a stretch of the riverbank. Closer to the hills, elegant villas set a more upscale tone. A path snakes through the Giardino Bardini park, climbing up to the 17th-century Villa Bardini, which has 2 museums and offers amazing city vistas. The upscale vibe of the neighbourhood means that you should expect everything to be a little more expensive than in the rest of the city but its well worth a visit if only for the views.

Sant’Ambrogio.

Packed with plenty of things to see, taste and shop, it’s tough to beat the lively Sant’Ambrogio neighbourhood, the eastern end of the historic center roughly extending from via Pietrapiana to piazza Beccaria, and encompassing some of the streets and squares jutting out from these main drags. Its most iconic monument and claim to fame is the Sant’Ambrogio Market, daily life buzzes around its fresh food market which opens at 7am. The outside stalls brim with colourful, seasonal fruits and vegetables stacked on trestle tables, while inside the wrought-iron market building an incredible variety of meats and cheeses are displayed under gleaming glass counters.

Santo Spirito.

The southern side of Florence in the Oltrarno district is another renowned area called Santo spirit which is known for its bohemian feel and artisan workshops. Santo Spirito is a particularly popular neighbourhood in the area, centred on a leafy piazza lined with eateries perfect for an al fresco lunch or a sunset aperitivo. Pop into Basilico di Santo Spirito, the neighbourhood’s namesake church, whose simplistic facade is something of a visual trick. Within its walls you’ll find mesmerising, ornate Baroque styling. Be sure to seek out the church’s “secret” side room, which has a Michelangelo crucifix on display.

ARRIVEDERCI FLORENCE.

As our time in Florence drew to an end I had gained a whole new appreciation for this little Tuscan outpost built on the banks of the river Arno which for more than two millennia has seen countless invasions (armies and tourists), political and religious turmoil, warring factions and numerous cycles of financial boom and bust. And somehow it keeps rising up and moving with the times but without losing it’s sense of place in the glorious history of Italy. I hope that my post has given you a new outlook on Florence and inspired you to plan your next visit. I for one can’t wait to get back and discover more.

Buon Viaggio a tutti.