ITALIAN WAYS: NAVIGATING THE HABITS AND SUPERSTITIONS OF ITALY.

People’s habits change in subtle ways when they move abroad, and in food-driven Italy, the changes are most obvious when it comes to eating and drinking but not limited to them, as you will discover in my post.

Over the last couple of months, my partner and I have made an earnest attempt to improve our Italian language skills, first by attending a month’s intensive in Florence and now with regular classes online. This made me think of all the ways our everyday lives have changed since moving to Italy. Not only do we speak a new language and have new habits, but our body language has also changed. So below, you’ll find the most impactful, amusing, and curious things that have influenced me and our lives in Italy.

1. They speak with their hands (literally).

When it comes to using body language, nobody excels like Italians! Hand gestures, facial expressions, and posture play an essential role. They are the physical equivalent of words and add depth, texture, and context to conversation, as does punctuation in writing.

It is estimated that Italians commonly use around 250 physical gestures while conversing, making it practically a language unto itself. Some sociologists have pondered that these gestures may have emerged as a way for Italians to communicate secretly in times of foreign occupation and that a common non-verbal code to communicate can be traced back as far as the fall of the Western Roman Empire, when the arrival of migrants forced people to find new ways of communicating to overcome language barriers. Others suggest that gesticulation emerged as a way of competing for attention in the crowded squares of Renaissance Italy.

Whatever the reason, hand gestures constitute a vital part of the Italian language; in fact, one could say that most conversations are incomplete without them! One thing we’ve noticed is that the longer you live in Italy, the more likely you are to throw your hands into the air when making a point. And why not?

2. Italians will not “drive” in the passing lane.

While most Italians drive fast and mostly in a manner that suits their mood., they do strictly adhere to one rule. NO DRIVING IN THE PASSING LANE UNLESS YOU ARE PASSING A VEHICLE. So if you are driving in Italy, don’t pootle along in the passing lane because it is nice and empty, or you’ll suddenly find a line of honking and flashing vehicles right up your ‘cull’.

3. Italians don’t put money in your hands.

In Italy, it is considered unhygienic to put money directly in someone’s hand, both for the cashier when giving you change and for the customer when paying. Instead, both parties should put the money down on the little tray next to the cash register.

Side note: despite the fact that around the world it is becoming more and more popular to pay with a debit or credit card, in Italy it is still quite common to pay in cash. And remember, however you pay, always take the receipt (scontrino) with you.

4. Italians love a bidet.

Speaking of hygiene, if you ever go to an Italian house and enter the bathroom, you might notice a strange little sink next to the toilet for personal hygiene. While it’s not common in all countries in Italy, all houses must have at least one bidet; it’s the law.

This may explain why you might hear some Italians complaining when they go abroad and they don’t find a bidet in the bathroom. These days, modern toilets can also provide a bidet function, which not only free’s up space in the bathroom but also means you don’t have to squat quite so low to get a clean bum.

5. When entering a room in someone else’s home or a store, they say “Permesso.”.

You might have already greeted your visitors at the gate. Or they could be moving with you from room to room in your house, but regardless, each time they are about to cross a threshold, a well-mannered Italian will say “Permesso” (May I enter?) This may sound strange to a foreigner, but for an Italian, it formally signals their right to enter your space and is a sign of good manners.  But to most other nationalities, it sounds strange, especially when you have already been invited to their home or they say it as they move from room to room once inside.

6. Italians greet each other with such affection.

Italians are very touch-feely, and at first, seeing so much hugging and kissing amongst family and friends can seem a bit strange to us Anglo folks. But physical greetings are a big part of Italian culture and something you simply have to get used to.

Kisses and hugs are generally for family and friends. Strangers, workmen, and shopkeepers are not, but after meeting someone in a social setting once or twice, you will almost always greet them with a kiss. Remember, always start on the left cheek. So your left cheek is against theirs. Then, move to the right cheek against their right cheek. A little crisscross dance, if you will. Whether you actually touch cheeks, make kissing sounds, or actually kiss each other’s cheeks is a personal preference. As a child, I remember being swept up in the arms of my Italian family and kissed and hugged, followed by much enthusiastic cheek pinching, much to my chagrin.

It is also not unusual to see same-sex friends or family members walking arm in arm. It’s actually a heartwarming sight and a healthy way to express care. Science suggests that being a bit more touchy-feely could make you happier, as physical contact with other humans produces oxytocin, a feel-good hormone that is central to social bonding.

Sadly, since the dawn of the dreaded coronavirus, this has no longer been the norm and has changed the dynamics of Italian society, and I sincerely look forward to the day things return to normal.

7. Beware the ‘colpo d’aria’.

If you go out to a bar or a café in winter with your Italian friends, you might notice that most of them don’t want to sit next to the door or with their back facing the door. The reason being they are afraid of the drafts, Or, as they would say, un colpo d’aria (which literally means “hit by air”) 

The colpo d’aria normally affects not only your neck or throat but also your back, with the result of being stuck in bed for a couple of days or not being able to turn your head or speak. That is why you’ll see many Italians wearing scarves of varying thickness throughout the year, which appears to be a fashion statement but is actually to protect them from the drafts.

8. Italians always dress up to go out.

Italians pay special attention to the way they look, especially whenever they leave the house, no matter the occasion. It’s not just about clothes; shoes, bags, and accessories are also never worn for convenience but are carefully chosen to match their outfit.

You will never, ever see a “people of Walmart” post in Italy. Mainly because there are no Walmarts, but also because they would never be caught dead outside the house in pajamas, torn shirts, sweats, workout clothes, or even a slightly worn t-shirt unless they were going to or coming from a building site or gym.

Paying attention to their appearance is equally true for both men and women, though perhaps a little less for teenagers and young adults, who nowadays tend to conform to more international standards and don’t really mind walking around in their tracksuit pants, sneakers, or workout clothes.

It’s great for your self-esteem to look nice and put your best foot forward, and in Italy, where its fashion designers are famous the world over for being beacons of style, one must believe it’s in their DNA.

9. They know their local shopkeepers.

Italians hold all material things in high regard, perhaps because they have suffered so many hardships and have lived in abject poverty. And in turn, they like to have respect for and knowledge of those who serve them in the shops and supermarkets. In Italy, especially in small towns like ours, it is not uncommon to see the locals greeting shopkeepers like family members as they discuss the pro’s and cons of all the merchandise, which also makes your shopping trip a chance to socialise and catch up on the local gossip with the various vendors. Of course, as a foreigner, if you are standing behind someone in line who is having a long conversation with the salesperson, this can be frustrating, but that’s the price we pay for living in a place with a true sense of community.

Knowing your local shopkeepers makes life easier. Bought a dodgy product? Just swap it; no lengthy wait at the customer service desk. Strapped for cash? Pay next time! At the end of the day, you are recognised and respected as a human being.

10. They love a local market.

Most small towns in Italy have an outdoor market at least once or twice a week, while in the larger cities you can probably find one on almost any day. But why make a trip to the market part of your weekly routine?

Apart from the fact that most markets offer everything you could wish for, they also get you outdoors and are a chance for you to socialise and be seen, especially for folks who may live alone.

The market can save you money too; you can buy the exact quantity of whatever item you need and even haggle over the price if you feel like it, and most offer genuine farm-to-table produce delivered and sold by local farmers.

11. They peel their fruit.

Here is another anomaly: Even though we are taught that the skin on fruits has the most nutrients, for some Italians, it’s essential to peel their fruit before taking a bite! You will never see an Italian bite into an apple or pear unpeeled, even if it is washed. That sucker has to be stripped before it passes those lips, and the same goes for most vegetables. Even my Italian grandparents, who were organic fruit farmers, always carried a small pocket knife, which they would use to cut and peel their fruit for me. As a child, I paid no mind to it and thought that it was something celebrities did, but low and behold, I discovered it’s an Italian thing.

12. Eating a proper lunch is essential.

The two-hour lunch may be in decline in some Italian cities, but it’s far from a thing of the past. Taking time to eat lunch, or any meal, “properly” is paramount; you won’t find anyone here scarfing a sandwich at their work desk. And Italian state employees even get food vouchers, which can be used at restaurants or supermarkets, while some workplaces have full kitchens where employees can cook and eat together.

Nothing but wine (and water) with meals, just like Jesus.

You might be used to having a beer, soda, or something else with your lunch, but that’s all about to change if you’re moving to Italy. Here, water is essential with every meal, and wine is practically seen as a condiment and essential to the proper enjoyment of a meal.

The exception to this may be pizza, when drinking beer is acceptable.

13. No salad as a starter.

In what is a fairly steadfast rule, leafy salads are eaten last in Italy—and not as a side dish or starter.

Salads are almost exclusively dressed with olive oil and vinegar, and their position in last place is because they are thought to cleanse the palate and aid digestion. One of the few exceptions is a crispy Roman salad of puntarelle, dressed in anchovies and olive oil, which is usually served as a starter.

14. They don’t eat or drink on the go.

You will hardly ever see an Italian walking down the street with a cup of coffee. You will also never see them driving while eating a sandwich. Although in some countries the practice of walking and eating is commonplace, in Italy it’s taboo and almost always wrong. Indeed, the county’s famous slow food culture revolves around sociable sit-down dinners. Even legendary street foods, such as Sicillian panelle (chickpea fritters), Arancini, or Roman supplì (deep-fried rice balls), are not eaten on the go, although they can be eaten standing up if a convenient sitting spot can’t be found. You’ll also find that at a gas station rest stop, people will order their sandwiches, then eat them at either the counter or a table, never on the go.

There is one notable exception: gelato. One of the most enjoyable (and socially acceptable) ways to eat Italy’s famous ice cream is during your evening stroll, or passeggiata.

15. No colourful foods when ill.

Every culture has its own ideas about what to eat when ill. Some swear by energy drinks, others by chicken soup, and for bedouins, its camel’s milk.

For Italians,’mangiare in bianco‘ (eating white) is a practice that involves eating bowls of sauce-less spaghetti, white rice, or clear consume. The idea is that these foods are less challenging for the body to digest. The belief is that without taxing your digestion, you will have the energy needed to fight off what’s ailing you. If you want some flavor, you can season the bland dish with olive oil, and mercifully, the rules even permit some Parmesan. 

16. Never a cappuccino after midday.

Coffee is a big deal in Italy, so much so that they have just recently put in an application to unesco for ‘espresso’ to be approved for world heritage status. So it’s no surprise that there are many rules and traditions surrounding the humble cup of Italian Joe. The number one is to never have a cappuccino after midday, and definitely not during a meal that isn’t breakfast! This has probably to do with the fact that many Italians have cappuccino, or more generally, warm milk for breakfast, which often comes with sweet (and not savoury) food such as biscuits, pastries, cornettos (croissants), or cereals (they rarely eat a cooked breakfast, so don’t gripe when you don’t see brunch advertised). And that is why, unless you’re having a very late breakfast, you don’t typically order any milk-related beverage after 11 am. However, it is allowed (and quite common) to have an espresso, a macchiato (coffee with a few drops of milk), or a corretto (coffee with a tiny bit of grappa or other liquor) after lunch or even after dinner. Needless to say, you won’t find the one-gallon hazelnut, pumpkin spiced, half and half with double whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles at your local bar here in Italy.

17. Italians never go swimming after eating.

Every Italian has this indelible childhood memory: A grown-up is warning them to wait at least two hours after eating before going for a swim! This was definitely true for me. Can you imagine us at the beach in Australia and having to wait for hours to go back in the water while our Aussie compatriots were downing sausages and burgers as they ran joyously back into the surf? It was torture! Italians believe that the water in the sea or swimming pool, especially when it’s cold, can negatively affect your digestion. This belief is taken pretty seriously, and there wasn’t much you could say as a kid to convince your parents otherwise. That’s why, after lunch, many Italians simply spend their time at the beach playing cards, taking a nap, or going for a walk.

18. How do Italians wish you good luck?

Just like you might tell someone to “break a leg” in English, Italians have their own idiom to wish someone good luck. ‘Bocca al lupo‘, (‘In the mouth of the wolf’), is said to anyone about to take on a challenge that requires good luck. And the response to this isn’t to say thank you, but ‘Crepi,’ meaning ‘May the wolf die.’

19. Watch where you lay your hat.

After a long day of sightseeing, you might be tempted to toss your hat onto your bed—don’t! Putting a hat on a bed is considered unlucky because it’s associated with death. According to tradition, when priests visited the dying to give them their last rights, they would remove their own hat and put it on the bed.

20. Don’t place a loaf of bread upside-down.

According to Italian traditions, a loaf of bread must always be placed facing up. This superstition is based on the fact that in religion, bread is considered a symbol of life; therefore, it is bad luck to turn the bread upside-down or stick a knife into it. That’s why Italians will always tear bread with their hands.

21. Ways to avoid bad luck or the evil eye.

In Australia, the UK, and America, people will knock on wood to avoid a tempting fate. In Italy, it’s common for people to “tocca ferro” or “touch iron.” And when it comes to toasting, there are several things that can cause you to have bad luck. For example, never raise a glass that’s full of water, and don’t cross arms with the person next to you when you clink glasses.

The Malocchio, or Evil Eye, is one of the most ancient superstitions in Italy. Every region seems to have their own version of the Evil Eye, but some take it more seriously than others. One thing they seem to have in common is that the evil eye is caused by jealousy and envy. One test for the Malocchio is done by dropping olive oil into a plate of water. If the oil forms one large drop in the middle of the plate, it’s a sure sign of the presence of the evil eye. To break the curse of the Evil Eye, the chanting of prayers ensues (prayers that usually only women are allowed to know), after which one hopes the oil will break up into tiny droplets and spread out, thus indicating the curse is broken.

The cornicello is used to ward off the malocchio, or evil eye. A cornicello or corno portafortuna (literally “horn that brings luck” in Italian) is an Italian amulet or talisman worn to protect against the evil eye (and bad luck in general) and, historically, to promote fertility and virility. The amulet is also sometimes referred to as the Italian horn. Or we can go back to those hand gestures and use Mano Cornuta, a gesture made by pressing your two middle fingers into your palm with your hand facing downwards to look like horns, then flicking the wrist downwards to emphasise the action. Either one will ward off all that bad juju.

Final thoughts.

Italians are steeped in history and traditions, and they certainly don’t call it ‘la dolce vita’ for nothing; wellness and family are integral to life in Bella Italia. So whether you live in Italy or not, you can adopt these habits and live like an Italian. You can always indulge in the Italian tradition of aperitivo, wherever you may be. For some delicious inspiration, check out my post, MY ITALIAN COCKTAIL CLUB. Please let me know if I’ve missed any other habits, traditions, or superstitions that you have come to adopt or simply witnessed and thought noteworthy.