Naples is often referred to as Italy’s New York City, Not because it’s filled with soaring skyscrapers but for its palpable, frenetic, unquantifiable raw energy.

Like NYC, Naples is complicated, unapologetic, loud, messy and brimming with hidden treasures. It’s truly a city to behold from its charming waterfront to its bustling historic centre all set against the backdrop of the magnificent, ominous Mount Vesuvius reminding all in its shadow of their fragile mortality.

Most things in Naples run at their own pace. A pace that coincides with “I’ll do as I damn please.” Cars are old and brandished with dents like medals hard-won in a complex war. Traffic signs are loosely interpreted by distracted drivers. Vespa’s are used like buses, with the host often sandwiched by children with a dog at their feet. All precariously balanced on two wheels, honking constantly as they zig-zag through the gridlock of cars and pedestrians. This cacophony of madness is what makes Naples, Naples.

This port city has been a meeting place for people the world over since 475 BC and has created a melting pot of peoples and cultures. This is evident when walking through its streets, which are full of artistic and architectural treasures. Naples, like New York City, is made up of a patchwork of neighbourhoods that puts ornate mansions beside gritty street art and ancient churches next to bohemian drinking holes. 

For centuries, Naples was passed from empire to empire and civilization to civilisation. Greek, Roman, Norman, Bourbon, French, and Spanish cultures have all occupied the region at one point in history. In previous eras, Naples enjoyed a certain degree of economic and political prosperity. But also, since the 18th century the city has experienced many events with adverse consequences: Cholera, fascism, the Great Depression, Nazi occupation, a volcanic eruption, an uptick in unemployment and organized crime.

Very few cities in Italy have been as fraught with turbulence as Naples. However, in spite of this the city, and its occupants have only grown stronger. Today, tourists from all over the world come to behold its unique landmarks. Including yours truly, when in September 2022 we attended the San Gennaro festival.

Naples is perfect for a weekend getaway – the city is easy to navigate and you can hit up most of the must see sites over the course of two days or equally fabulous for an extended stay which allows you to venture further a field.

Looking for a taste of Naples without leaving home. Then I recommend Elena Ferrante’s My Brilliant Friend series. And the beautiful and haunting films Hand of God, The Life Ahead and the latest Netflix series The lying life of adults. All of which offer an entertaining glimpse into the cities storied past.

What to see and do in Naples.

Naples has a vast assortment of unique offerings for visitors. So to help you plan your Neapolitan adventure in this post I’ve curated some of what I believe to be the best.

Check out Ancient Naples in Napoli Sotterranea

Considering this southern Italian city set its roots as a Greek settlement as early as 475 BCE, it isn’t too surprising that here you’d find a goldmine of ancient historic sites. Get the most accurate depiction of the cities roots by going underground at Napoli Sotteranea.

Discover the secrets of the Greeks and Romans with Context during an Ancient Naples: Above and Underground Tour where you’ll get a true sense of how the past lends to the present in Naples. Tours start at various locations around the city center and follow the decumani, ancient, above ground Roman roads originally laid out 2000 years ago that are still in use today. Then you’ll make your way below ground where Naples’ ancient forum was once. On these tours you’ll explore this archaeological complex with a true archaeologist. If you have some time, you can also check out the San Gennaro Catacombs, a network of tunnels and passageways that contain over 3000 ancient graves, crypts, frescoes, and art.

Walk through Castel Nuovo and Castel dell’Ovo

Castles are another remnant of Naples’ occupational history. Did you know there are seven castles in the city? In fact, Naples used to be referred to as the “City of the seven castles”. The two I’d suggest visiting are Castel Nuovo and Castel dell’Ovo.

Castel Nuovo

Built in 1279 for the Aragon and Spanish rulers, Castel Nuovo is one of the most scenic and recognizable architectural landmarks in Naples. This imposing fortress feels like a true castle with its isolating moat and rook-like structures adorning its facades. The castle houses the Civic Museum and the library of the Neapolitan Society of Homeland History. People are especially drawn to the frescoes of renowned, Late Middle Ages painter Giotto di Bondone. Be sure to also look out for the Roman ruins that lay under a glass floor in the Armoury Room.

Castel dell’Ovo

Castel dell’Ovo, or Egg Castle, is the oldest castle in Naples. Its strategic location on the waterfront, looking out to the Bay of Naples, offered safety to the Greeks and Romans that first built the fortification. Castel dell’Ovo’s curious name comes from a legend involving the poet Virgil, who was known to be a great sorcerer in the Middle Ages. As the legend goes, Virgil buried a magical egg around the castle to support its foundation. He warned that if the egg broke, the castle would crumble and Naples would experience disastrous events. The castle remains standing to this day, so thankfully, nobody has crushed the egg. Castel dell’Ovo is definitely worth a visit because it’s completely free! It also includes access to exhibitions and other special events. (And right next door is an excellent fish restaurant……..)

Piazza del Plebiscito

Not too far from Castel Nuovo, the Piazza del Plebiscito is a beautiful, must-see city center plaza. It was named after the referendum, or plebiscite, that pulled Naples into the unification of Italy in 1860. The bold square stands as a symbol of a rejuvenated Naples. The four buildings that surround the Piazza del Plebiscito include the Royal Palace, the Basilica of St. Francis of Paola, and the Prefecture and the Palace of Salerno, two symmetrical buildings that bring harmony to the place.

Fun fact: in 1963, the Piazza del Plebiscito was transformed into a parking lot to deal with the chaotic increase of cars in Naples. It was reverted back to a pedestrian plaza in 1994. The large public gathering site also holds outdoor events and concerts. International singers and bands like Elton John, Bruce Springsteen, Maroon 5, Muse, and others have played at this grandiose piazza!

Bourbon Tunnel

If touring the underground Napoli Sotterranea and catacombs wasn’t enough for you, the daring history junkie in you has to check out the Bourbon Tunnel. Originally built as an escape route for the aristocracy in 1853, this deep tunnel now contains rusted over vintage cars and wartime relics. It was also used as a bomb shelter to protect against air raids. You can still see objects left by people who were sheltered here like hair brushes, children’s toys, and beds.

Museums in Naples

Sanservo chapel Museum

The Sansevero Chapel Museum in the historic heart of Naples is a jewel of the world’s artistic heritage. Here, baroque creativity, dynastic pride, beauty and mystery blend to create a unique and almost timeless atmosphere. With its masterpieces such as the famous Veiled Christ, renowned world over for the remarkable tissue-like quality of the marble. It is considered one of the world’s most remarkable sculptures, and legendarily thought to have been created by alchemy. Sculptor Antonio Canova, who tried to acquire the work, declared that he would willingly give up ten years of his life to produce a similar masterpiece. The Sansevero Chapel is one of the most impressive monuments that the human mind has ever conceived. A noble mausoleum, a temple of initiation, which admirably reflects the multi-faceted personality of its ingenious architect, Raimondo di Sangro, seventh Prince of Sansevero.

Archaeological Museum of Naples

This renowned museum holds the world’s most important and richest collections of Roman artifacts. Founded in the 18th century by the Bourbon King Ferdinand IV, the museum was originally intended to store his vast collection of statues left over from the Roman Farnese family. With its throngs of paintings, mosaics, and sculptures, this museum is especially important in understanding the ancient Greco-Roman history of the city. Even more fascinating, you’ll be able to see the archaeological archives of Pompeii and Herculaneum, Roman cities frozen in time by the nearby volcano, Mount Vesuvius. The whole family is sure to stare in awe at the antiques of Naples’ past.

Explore Caravaggio and Baroque Art

In the 17th century, Naples was an economic and political powerhouse that fueled an artistic flourishing. Most notably, Baroque art and architecture made its way to Naples during this time period. Baroque is characterized by contrast, intense color and detail, and elaborate decor. The style had its roots in Rome, but quickly moved to Naples, especially once Caravaggio moved to the city. After killing a man in Rome, this tortured artist fled to the city and established his great reputation as a Baroque artist. His dramatic use of light and dark is exemplified in The Seven Works of Mercy masterpiece, which you and your significant other will have to see in the Pio Monte chapel and palace.

Contemporary Art and the Stazione della Metropolitana dell’Arte

While Naples isn’t widely regarded as a city with the best contemporary art, it has an amazing modern scene that can unfortunately go missed if you don’t look for it. Naples first became a center for modern art in the 1960s when the top artists of the time, including Andy Warhol, Robert Rauschenberg, and Cy Twombly spent time in the city and became inspired by the local Neapolitan flavor. In fact, the New York Times recently declared that “Naples is Italy’s best-kept secret” in terms of contemporary art! You’ll love staring in awe at the evocative installations, smattering of cutting-edge galleries, and stunning collection of modern art.

Also Naples has not shortage of amazing street art from large murals that cover sides of buildings to small Banksy inspired works.

Ride the Subway/Metro

There are two things I like to do when I visit a new city, one is to rent a bike to get about and the other is use public transport, and I would highly recommend the latter when in Naples. As each metro stop has its own all encompassing contemporary art installations. But the piècé de résistance is the Stazione della Metropolitana dell’Arte (Toledo station). Here the entire station has been transformed into a surreal, dream-like landscape it is truly a wonder to witness.

 Climb Mount Vesuvius

Classified as a Stratovolcano, Mount Vesuvius dominates the skyline and landscape surrounding Naples and is the legendary volcano that famously erupted in 79 AD and caused the destruction and burial of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Vesuvius stands as the only volcano in mainland Europe that has erupted in the last 100 years – It is considered extremely dangerous due to the amount of human settlements that are situated in its danger zone. Today you can take a bus tour from Naples to visit this magnificent natural phenomenon and climb up its slopes to peer into the crater. A hike will take between 20-30 minutes and is considered not too challenging – The views from the top on a clear day are stunning.

Suggested tour: Vesuvius 4-Hour Wine Tasting Tour and Lunch from Naples

Visiting Pompeii & Herculaneum

If you’re in Naples, Pompeii and Herculaneum are archaeological sites you just have to see. This is one of the few places in the world where you can actually see an ancient city as it stood over 2,000 years ago. These findings have given us insights into the civilisations that might even surprise you. Walk through ancient cobblestoned roads, explore old homes, temples, shops, civic buildings, and public spaces that intricately illustrate everyday activities in the city.

Info to visit Pompeii: Visitpompeiivesuvius.com

Take a boat to explore Sorrento and the islands

Sorrento

Let’s address some of the more well known destinations right out of the gate. Sorrento is a popular day trip from Naples and for good reason. It offers beaches, history, shops, breathtaking views of Vesuvius and an endless supply of its local specialty, limoncello. You’ll find plenty of things to do in Sorrento, but visiting Marina Grande, enjoying the beach and hitting the shops are on my short list for a successful day trip. Want to stay the night? Check into Surriento Suites for unique views and easy access to ferries at a reasonable price.

How to get to Sorrento: 

Naples to Sorrento is about a 45-minute journey by ferry with frequent departures from the port. This site is easy to navigate for schedules and information, but you can also book directly ahead of time on the ferry’s site or just buy a ticket from the port (get there early and expect a queue).

Capri

Capri is a small island that is known for its dramatic scenery, rugged coastline dotted with beautiful caves and its quaint and charming villages. Regular ferries depart from Naples harbour and the journey takes just under two hours. Walk through the wonderful Marina Grande, admire the boats in the harbour and then set off to explore the island. Don’t forget to take a trip to see the famous Blue Grotto Sea Cave or the view from the top of Monte Solaro.

Available tour: Island of Capri: Full-Day Tour from Naples

Procida

Procida is an island destination that’s very doable for a day trip. The whole island is just 3 km long (less than 2 miles). There is a small shuttle that runs round the island. Procida is most known for the colorful marina Corricella (find on Google Maps) and was named Italy’s Capital of Culture 2022. Start your day trip with a short walk from the port to the small marina. For the best views of Procida, head up the hill towards the Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo. Once to the top of the abbey, you’ll also find a small cafe and a lookout point with views of Capri and Vesuvius. Have lunch in the Marina Corricella before heading to the beach for the rest of the afternoon.

How to get to Procida: 

Ferries from Ischia and Naples run daily to Procida in the high season. For the full schedule click here: naplesbayferry.com

Ischia

Ischia is often overlooked by the more well-known and luxurious island of Capri. However, Ischia has long been the island of choice by Neapolitans on vacation around Ferragosto, the Catholic holiday on August 15th. With Elena Ferrante’s best selling My Brilliant Friend series and the very Instagrammable luxury resort of Mezzatorre’s opening, the island has only increased in popularity over the last few years. After getting off the ferry in the main port, stroll towards the medieval Aragonese Castle. The main street offers ample opportunities to stop at shops or get a caffe. If time permits after a fresh seafood lunch, park at one of the lidos along the beach. You can also spend the day at one of Ischia’s healing thermal spas. Ischia is the largest island in the Bay of Naples and a day trip would just scratch the surface of what it has to offer. Consider staying the night to see more of the island. Sadly in more recent times the island has suffered some terrible landslides that destroyed a few villages and damaged lots of homes. The island is still a beautiful place and you’d be much appreciated if you chose to visit as the inhabitants really need tourist euros to help rebuild.

How to get to Ischia: 

There are three main ports in Ischia: Forio, Casamicciola and Ischia. Be sure to book the right destination based on what part of the island you wish to visit. Ischia port is the best if you want to visit the castle. Direct ferries leave from Pozzuoli and Naples, and takes about 40 minutes depending on the type of ferry and port. You’ll find all the ferry information at naplesbayferry.com

Gaiola Island

Just a thirty minute drive from the city center, Gaiola is a small, beautiful, and perhaps cursed island off the coast of Posillipo in Naples. The site is quite interesting to behold — there’s a sliver of a stone arch that connects two huge rocks that make up the island. That isn’t the only odd thing about the place either. All eight of Gaiola Island’s owners have suffered one tragedy or another. The first went bankrupt, the second was found dead and wrapped in a rug, the third died of a heart attack while visiting the island, the fourth was locked up in an asylum where he committed suicide, and on and on. Eventually, the island became the government’s property. Check out this unique island from the coastline, or for the brave of heart take a boat, swim, scuba dive, or snorkel at the nearby Gaiola Underwater Park, a marine protected area.

Indulge in the food of Naples:

Italy is often, well almost always, associated with amazing weather, gorgeous landscapes and… delicious food. But in Naples, it’s more than just good food as mealtimes become almost a religious experience.

Street food tour

One of the best ways to experience the local cuisine is by taking a street-food walking tour. And Naples is no exception. On the tour you’ll wander up and down the cobbled streets of the old Spanish Quarter and other local neighbourhoods learning about all the local history, enjoying food once prepared for kings and noble families, but still enjoyed by the locals today! Indulge in everything from real Neapolitan pizza to specialties such as deep-fried pasta and flakey sweet pastry called sfogliatella.

Available tour: Food walking tour with tasting.

Where to wine and dine in Naples !

Ooo.. where to start? Naples is a gastronomical paradise, everything is delicious, especially pizza which has its origins rooted here. The city being named, ‘The birthplace of the pizza.’

To help you navigate your Naples food journey, here are some of my favourite restaurants and hotspots:

Osteria La Chitarra
Simple delicious traditional Neapolitan food. The wine is also really great value.

Osteria Il Gobbetto
The best lunch in Naples. You will need a reservation or to be patient, or perhaps even have a late lunch to experience this dining venue. But trust me, it’s so worth it!

L’Albero dei Visconti
This top-class pizzeria is always packed, and rightly so. The food is simply delicious, so much so we went twice during our five day stay. Making a reservation is, therefore, a must. Located in the Centro storico not too far from the famed Spanish quarter district, making it perfect location for a stroll after your meal!

Il Ritrovo dei Sapori, Caseificio Marigliano
This tiny, rustic venue next to the Central Station is the place to eat the local speciality, buffalo mozzarella. I’d suggest ordering the antipasto plate, and let the gods guide you. The plates are huge and the assortment excellent. They also have great wines by the glass. And if you can’t finish (which is certainly the case since there is such a major amount of food on a plate ), no problem, they are happy to give you a doggy bag!

Trattoria e Pizzeria Spaccanapoli This tiny place in a small alley close to the duomo serves up wonderful authentic local cuisine. We found the pasta here a sensation. They have a small outside dining area set up in the lively piazza opposite. It is a true Naples vibe with lots of locals hanging out.

Trattoria Don Vincenzo This Trattoria is right next door the Spaccanapoli and has an outdoor dining area opposite, here you’ll find delicious fish dishes. They don’t take reservations so go early if you want to sit right away otherwise you’ll wait but in this lively piazza that is half the fun, order a glass of wine and chat to the locals.

Wine cafe da Mario Rounding out the trio of places dine in this piazza is Wine cafe da Mario. The perfect spot for an aperitivo after a day of sightseeing. It takes up centre position in the piazza and you can sit at high barrel tables and enjoy a yummy cocktail and people-watch.

I Gerolomini
Trattoria Pop Napoletana owes its name to the nearby Piazza dei Gerolomini. A unique venue, with a design that tells a story of pop art through every single piece of furniture. Elements sought after and scrupulously placed by mixing tradition and innovation but also passion and creativity. The result is a familiar and cheerful environment where you can taste traditional and inventive Neapolitan dishes, everything is prepared fresh in house including all pasta, breads and desserts.

Gino Sorbillo
Naples, the origin of the Pizza! According to legend, the pizza was created in Naples. Therefore, when in Naples, you MUST eat a pizza. Why wouldn’t you do this at the pizzeria where, according to the legends, the first pizza was created? (Note: this place is very touristy.)

Januarius
There’s a reason why this restaurant is rated 9th out of 2500 in central Naples as it’s truly delightful, delicious and delovely. We tried to eat here on several occasions during our stay but it was sold out every time but fortunately we made it for lunch on our last day and boy we were so glad we did. Januarius is both a restaurant and a shop where you can purchase many excellent products used in their kitchen. (generally from Campania and the South) plus an excellent choice of local wines.You can also purchase housed cured meats, cheeses and other yummy delicacies to take away. There are two dining rooms with just over 40 seats. There is also a window counter dedicated to street food (clearly Neapolitan). Januarius is a Neapolitan pearl, so be sure to reserve table in advance. You won’t be disappointed.

Pintvauro
Here you will find the best Sfogliatelle (Neapolitan pastry of puff pastry filled with ricotta) and Baba (Neapolitan turban cake with rum) of the whole city.

Libreria Berisio
By day a bookstore, in the evening a living-room bar where live concerts are held. Sit between the books, enjoy the atmosphere and the fun music!

As the Neapolitans say, “Vedi Napoli e poi muori! — See Naples and die!” One can’t blame the locals for never wanting to leave nor its poets singing its praises in lofty hyperboles because Naples is truly magnificent.

We just scratched the surface of what’s on offer in this amazing city and I for one can’t wait to go back. And if you have any additional favourites or suggestions please let me know. Ciao