SPRING AWAKENING: EASTER IN CITTA DELLA PIEVE

Around Easter, the Umbrian countryside comes alive with blossoming trees, blooming gardens, and meadows of wildflowers, and the woods reveal an array of wild bounty, from mushrooms to asparagus and a plethora of greens. And as the days grow longer and the sun stronger, the hills and fields burst with glorious colour. These longer days and milder temperatures make this the perfect time to explore the area’s beautiful villages—like Citta dellà Pieve, Montefalco, Bevagna, Spello, Todi, and Orvieto—all rich with history, art, and some stunning vistas. These medieval towns awaken with a myriad of activities, from concerts, fairs, and exhibitions to outdoor events and food festivals. A great way to spend a springtime afternoon is to visit one of the many top-notch thermal spas or Roman baths nearby. For a full rundown of the local hot spots, just click the link: My Italian Thermal Spa Club.

Easter is the biggest spring holiday, and, like most Italian holidays, food plays a principal role at Easter. Breakfast is traditionally the contents of the specially prepared and blessed Easter basket, including hardboiled eggs, new salami, wine (yes, the breakfast of champions), savory cheese bread (torta pasquale or torta di formaggio), and the dove-shaped Colomba sweet bread. At lunch, expect egg-based pasta in all shapes and forms, lamb or young goat, artichokes, asparagus, fennel, and other spring vegetables, and the first strawberries of the season. Afterwards, merrymakers break open their hollow chocolate eggs to find their surprise inside and eat the remains as dessert. Our wonderful local eateries serve up a traditional Easter lunch, but be sure to book early as they fill up fast.

A Good Friday procession through the medieval streets of Assisi allows you to take part in the lively celebrations there as well. In addition, you can view the historic castle and ruins at the Basilica of St. Francis.

Come to Panicale on Easter Monday and participate in the local game of ruzzolone, which involves rolling a 4-kilogram wheel of cheese around the historic town walls. There is music and lots of festive fun after the games, and people love to have a fish dinner at the neighboring Lake Trasimeno.

Easter in Città della Pieve

But perhaps one of the most incredible experiences is visiting Pieve and witnessing the ‘living pictures’. This tradition involves a group reenacting famous paintings of Christ’s passion and the Easter story. Using costumes, lights, and backdrops, these performances are visually stunning and emotionally powerful recreations of classic masterpieces and give you a new appreciation of the region’s deep cultural roots.

Easter in Pieve is a special time indeed. You’re in for a double treat! Not only do you get to experience the atmospheric underground caverns of the Palazzo Orca with the living paintings of Quadri Viventi, but you can also explore the wonders of the Easter Market. From March 30th to April 1st, the town’s historic centre will once again host one of my favourite farmer’s markets and craft fairs. This wonderful Market of Artisan and Agro-Food Products will offer a tantalizing smorgasbord of Italian specialties, with over 50 exhibitors serving up some of Umbria’s finest—truffle, oil, wine, and saffron—as well as Norcia’s best charcuterie and Trasimeno’s lentils. Also for sale are tasty delights from as far south as Puglia, Calabria, and Sardinia. You can enjoy the festivities from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

I Quadri Viventi: The “Living Paintings”

This exquisite tradition of living paintings has been celebrated for over 30 years in Città della Pieve. Every year, the Terziere Borgo Dentro district (one of the three districts in which the town is divided) reconstructs the Passion of Jesus, known as I Quadri Viventi (the living paintings/tableau).

The tableau’s creation follows the story of Christ’s crucifixion, including The Last Supper, The Garden of Gethsemane, The Flagellation, The Pity on the Dead Christ, and The Resurrection, all brought to life in the evocative underground cellars of the Palazzo Orca. Here, through artistic lighting (electric lights and candles), a poignant soundtrack, and a series of meticulously set-up living tableaus, the evangelical scenes are re-proposed into a moving and emotive atmosphere with a strong emotional impact.

The 40 live figures remain immobile for the entire event, providing an atmosphere with intense emotion and powerful impact. A task that is far from easy but is done by the locals with such dedication and love.

This year’s theme also pays homage to the ‘Divine Painter’, Peter di Cristoforo Vannucci, on this 500-year anniversary of his death. Peter di Cristoforo Vannucci, also known as Il Perugino, was one of the most influential Italian painters of his time.

To learn more about his life, check out my post here: IL Perugino.

When I have visited this amazing event in the past, it feels as if I’ve leapt right into a religious painting, perhaps a masterpiece by Caravaggio or Perugino. Thanks to the effective play of light and shadow, the costumes with fine workmanship, and the intense facial expressions of the participants,.

All this hard work and attention to detail is what makes the ‘I Quadri Viventi one of the most moving and unforgettable events in the Citta della Pieve calendar, and one I’d say you shouldn’t miss.

Take advantage of the warm springtime by spending Easter at Città della Pieve. And with a plethora of great restaurants, galleries, artisanal markets, vineyards and excellent accommodations, including our picturesque Grove Cottage the town really does offer something for everyone.