VENICE: TO CICCHETTI OR NOT TO CICCHETTI

Exploring Venice’s Delectable Cicchetti World.

Ah, Venice! Just the name of this charming city conjures up images of elaborate canals, striking architecture, and the ageless charm of gondolas gliding through the waterways. But wait—Venice is more than just what meets the eye! Come with me as I reveal this amazing place’s hidden culinary gems. A delightful journey through the enticing world of Venetian Cicchetti awaits you as you get ready—those delicious bite-sized wonders that have, sadly, been unfairly overlooked. Come along with me as we explore the best places to savor these delicious bite-sized pieces of culinary art. From delicious fried seafood delicacies to rich tramezzini, these irresistible gems are a culinary revelation that never fails to sate one’s appetite. Encountering the taste, passion, and ageless traditions that make Venice genuinely remarkable, let us set out on our gastronomic journey together.

“Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go,” says Truman Capote.

What is cichetti?

Allow me to introduce you to the gastronomic delight known as cicchetti. These petite, yet exquisite, morsels are an awe-inspiring manifestation of Italian culinary artistry. Imagine a harmonious amalgamation of flavors and textures meticulously arranged atop a delicate round of bread. From the velvety richness of mascarpone to the delicate interplay of sweet figs and honey, or the savory symphony of marinated octopus with vibrant tomato accents, cicchetti stands apart from its counterparts, bruschetta and crostini, bearing a distinct and refined character. As you traverse the labyrinthine alleys of the canal city, each corner presents an establishment dedicated to the creation of these delectable indulgences.

The origin of the word cicchetti is believed to come from the little fish that were caught in the lagoon and served in tiny portions, called cicen. Today, cicchetti is a broad term encompassing a variety of bites ranging from seafood and meat to vegetarian and vegan options. One thing is for sure, cicchetti is meant to be shared, savoured, and enjoyed in the company of friends or family.

Where can I find the best cichetti bars?

With so many options available, it can be overwhelming to decide which bars offer the tastiest bites. However, there are a few spots that are consistently praised for their cicchetti offerings. One such place is Cantina Do Mori, the oldest bacaro in Venice. This bar is known for its selection of fish and seafood cicchetti, which are freshly prepared every day. Another favorite is All’Arco, a small bar located near the Rialto Market. All’Arco serves a variety of cicchetti, but their standouts include the creamed cod and sea bass with polenta. For a more modern take on cicchetti, head to Osteria Bancogiro. Their cicchetti menu includes unique creations, such as truffle fondue with black truffle shavings and fig compote with gorgonzola. These are just a few examples of where to find the best cicchetti in Venice. But ultimately, the best approach is to wander through the city and pop into the local bars where the most mouthwatering ingredients will be on display.

How to Enjoy Cicchetti Like a Local

Once you’ve found your perfect spot for cicchetti in Venice, it’s important to know how to enjoy it like a local. First and foremost, cicchetti is meant to be enjoyed with a glass of wine or spritz. Locals will often order a cicchetto and a small glass of wine or spritz before moving on to the next bar for another.

It’s also important to note that cicchetti is typically eaten while standing at the bar. Many cicchetti bars have limited seating, and standing at the bar is a traditional and social way to enjoy the small bites. If you do manage to grab a seat, it’s considered polite to offer it up once it’s finished to someone else who may be standing.

Another tip for enjoying cicchetti like a local is to not be afraid to try new things. Many cicchetti bars have unique creations and specialties that may not be found elsewhere. Locals love to experiment with new flavour combinations and ingredients, so don’t hesitate to try something that may seem out of the ordinary.

Cross the Grand Canal in a Gondola

After indulging in the best cicchetti that Venice has to offer and enjoying some delicious Venetian wine, it’s time to explore the city from a different perspective. And what better way to start living like a local than by crossing the Grand Canal and standing up on a Gondola Traghetto?

I love the Traghetto in Venice; it’s easy, and for those who want a gondola experience without breaking the bank, its a fun way to cross the Grand Canal. It’s a truly liberating experience, as you are usually crammed on with businessmen, some well-heeled women, and a couple of nuns eating gelato.

To catch the Traghetto, there are seven crossing points along the Grand Canal between the Train Station and St. Mark’s Basin:

• Fondamenta S. Lucia Rail Station
• San Marcuola, Fóndaco dei Turchi
• San Samuele – Cà Rezzónico
• *Campo Santa Maria del Giglio: Salute
• *San Tomà – Santo Stefano
• Rialto Market, Cà D’Oro
• Riva del Carbòn – Fondamente del Vin

*During The Feast of Madonna della Salute a temporary bridge is built on boats crossing the Grand Canal from the Traghetto of Santa Maria del Giglio to Salute so thousands of people can make the pilgrimage.

HOW TO GET THE TRAGHETTO

Find the “Traghetto” sign, usually posted close to the pier along the canal, and stay in line waiting for the gondola. Normally, you shouldn’t have to wait long if the service is running. When the traghetto arrives, say your fare to the oarsman as you board.

PRICES AND TIME

• Weekdays: 7.30 a.m.–8.00 8.00pm
• Holidays: 8.30 a.m.–7.30 7.30pm
• Closed on Christmas Day and January 1st
• The cost of the ferry service is € 0.70 for residents and € 2

With the breathtaking views of Venice surrounding you, you’ll forget all your worries and simply enjoy the moment.

THE RIALTO MARKET

Get ready for another incredible culinary experience at the fabulous Rialto Mercato! It’s smack in the middle of the San Polo district, right next to the famous Rialto Bridge. This place is buzzing with energy and has everything your senses could ask for. When you step inside, you’ll be transported to a world where old meets new and the smell of fresh seafood fills the air. Imagine strolling through the covered market with the sunlight streaming through and reflecting off the ice-covered fish. You’ll see eels squirming, swordfish shining, and juicy tuna that’ll make your mouth water. And that’s not even the half of it! Head over to the open market, where you’ll find an explosion of colors and delicious aromas. Fresh fruits, veggies, dried goodies, and mouthwatering cuts of meat will be calling your name. The Mercato is where all the food lovers gather to get a taste of the real Venice. It’s a place to experience the flavors, traditions, and local vibe that make this city so special. Trust me, you don’t want to miss out on this vibrant marketplace.

Opening hours:

• Fresh produce market (7:30 a.m.–1 p.m., Mon–Sat)
• Pescheria market (7:30am-1pm a.m.–1 p.m., Tuesday–Sat)

the fabulous Guggenheim Museum

Now it’s time for a little culture! Nestled amidst the charming narrow streets and picturesque canals of Venice, Italy, lies a treasure trove of artistic brilliance and cultural significance—the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. This extraordinary institution, housed within the elegant confines of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, offers an unparalleled experience for art enthusiasts and history buffs alike.

From the moment you cross the threshold, you are transported into a realm where artistic expression knows no bounds. The collection proudly showcases an array of groundbreaking works by influential artists from around the world. Marvel at masterpieces from the likes of Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, and Mark Rothko, who have undoubtedly left an indelible mark on the art world.

As you wander through the halls of the museum, allow yourself to be transported back in time, immersing yourself in the vibrant tales that each artwork tells. The carefully curated selection paints a vivid picture of the artistic progression and evolution of the 20th century, serving as a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of human creativity.

In addition to the remarkable collections housed within the museum’s walls, the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni itself stands as a remarkable architectural gem. This palatial residence, which served as Guggenheim’s private abode, exudes elegance and grandeur, offering visitors a glimpse into the glamorous world in which she resided.

Whether you are a seasoned art connoisseur or simply an admirer of beauty and creativity, a visit to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection promises an unforgettable experience. Immerse yourself in the vibrant energy of the art world, bask in the brilliance of iconic works, and embrace the profound impact of the modernist movement—all within the enchanting confines of this Venetian sanctuary.

The Jewish ghetto

The Ghetto of Venice is Europe’s first “ghetto,” the ancient Jewish quarter in the center of the city. And in truth, we came here in search of potato latkas, a delicious fried potato cake that sadly eluded us. However, with its tall buildings in warm and welcoming colours overlooking wide spaces and surrounded by canals, this intimate quarter delivered in many other ways. Its uniqueness is due to its five synagogues. Two of them are open to public and private tours and are currently in use for religious services and ceremonies.

And be sure to stop at Panificio Volpe Giovanni a delicious kosher bakery sure to evoke similarity to any traditional New York kosher eatery with its pastry and baked-goods offerings, from bagels and challah to babka and rugelach. Its other offerings include traditional Venetian pastries such as fruit-filled “Orecchiette di Amman,” an s-shaped “Bisce,” the donut-shaped “Zuccherini,” and “Sweet Azime.” But FYI The bakery shuts its doors on Saturday’s.

FINAL THOUGHTS

With the introduction of the new Venice day-visitor tax (5 euros) and the news that there are now more tourists than resident beds on the island, it seems the life of the city as a once important centre of commerce (especially silk, grain, and spice) and art has all but vanished.

Who knows how the story will end for this once-mighty financial and maritime power? Venice, a city that now captivates the hearts of millions of visitors each year with its unique charm and enchanting beauty,.

After several visits to this wondrous city, for me, its true beauty lies not on its well-trodden touristy main arteries lined with flashy window displays, but rather, one block back. Here, amidst the lesser-known canals and walkways, cicchetti bars and the few remaining artisan workshops offer a more genuine glimpse into how this unique city was formed.

And for those who venture out before dawn, you’ll be gifted with an even more authentic experience as the purveyors of the city, its restauranteurs and shopkeepers, take delivery of goods in exactly the same way they have for centuries from barges piled with cargo that navigate the narrowest of canals. Then offload their wares onto high quaysides, where rugged delivery men trundle handcarts stacked impossibly high along cobblestone alleyways, cigarettes permanently affixed to the lower lips on their stubbled faces.

So, let your senses guide you as you explore this mesmerising city, step away from the tourist arteries and let the whispers of its storied past transport you to a place where dreams and reality seamlessly intertwine. Venice awaits, ready to enliven your senses and weave her enchanting spell upon you.