PUGLIA- ROAD TRIPPING.
A LAND OF HITS AND MISSES FOR US.
Puglia, is the most southern region of Italy forming the heel of its “boot,” and is known for its whitewashed hill towns, centuries-old olive groves and the hundreds of kilometres of Mediterranean coastline. The capital city of Bari is a vibrant port and university town, whilst, Lecce is known as the “Florence of the South”. Alberobello and the Itria Valley are famous for their “trulli,” stone huts with distinctive conical roofs. The heat here along with dry landscape brings to mind Greece, which is just 45 miles (72km) away, And many towns and villages with their flat-roofed, white washed and blue shuttered buildings are a reminder of Greek influence that goes back as far as the 8th century when the Romans called this area Magna Grecia because it was over run with Greeks.
This land of sea, hills and olive groves, is filled with wonder, intrigue and beautiful architecture but sadly haphazard city planning, general lack of civic pride outside the old cities and overdevelopment of the beach resorts meant it didn’t always deliver for us.
As this was a road trip I was expecting some stunning and interesting views but unfortunately on the east coast the wide A14 autostrada Adriatica is only peppered with uneventful gas stations and supermarkets that only teased with the occasional glimpses of the sea or ancient olive groves. This road that runs almost in a straight line form north to south through the flat landscape making it more monotonous than wondrous. It certainly didn’t have the same visual impact as the Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre, where memories of driving along the narrow coastal road between colourful towns straddled precariously on top of rugged cliffs are seared into my mind. Whilst their are undoubtedly beautiful vistas in Puglia there is no danger that the car in front of you will suddenly stop so it’s occupants can leap from the interior, phones in hand to capture the dramatic view.
However, once past Lecce the landscape became more rugged and road tripping afforded us the opportunity to thoroughly explore the picturesque and relatively undeveloped area around the heel of the boot of Italy.
OUR PUGLIA ROAD TRIP ITINERARY.
We decided to start our adventure in Monopoli then follow the east coast down to Otranto with overnight stays in Ostuni and Lecce, hitting the hotspots like Alberobello, San Vito Dei Normanni and Locorotodo to name a few.
TIP–We travelled in late June 2021 and my first tips would be to check the approximate temperatures before you plan your trip. For us it was 40+ degrees most days which was unseasonably hot, So just in case (global warming in mind) make sure you are prepared with sun-hats and water bottles. Start your days early, take Riposo (An afternoon nap) and check the distances between car parks and your accommodation.
After Otranto (A beautifully preserved historic seaside town and our favourite stop) we took the scenic route along the southern coast road to Santa Maria di Leuca. En route making stops in Castro, Porto Badisco and Marina di Noveglie. From here it was up the west coast with stops along the coast at the famed Maldives of Italy to Gallipoli for our two night stay.
From Gallipoli we headed north to Taranto along the scenic coastal route which took in the charming Porto Cesareo. Lastly it was onto Matera (Miglionico) for our final overnight stay before heading home to Umbria.
YOU HAVE TWO AIRPORTS TO CHOOSE FROM.
Flying into Puglia? You have two choices – Bari in the north, and Brindisi about a two and half hour drive further south. As we were driving from Umbria we chose to start our holiday in Monopoli, Whereas if you’re flying into Brindisi airport I would think your first stop should be in Ostuni – Or perhaps San Vito Dei Normanni or Alberobello. For those travelling from elsewhere in europe, Bari is the obvious choice as the flights are more plentiful – and a little cheaper.
DO YOU REALLY NEED A CAR?
The only answer is yes.
Sure, there are trains and local buses but you’ll likely miss many of the small coves and little towns and villages that we thought made Puglia so interesting.
A WEEK OR TWO IS PERFECT!
If you only have seven days in the region base yourself somewhere relatively central and then make a few day trips to beaches and surrounding towns, Most places tourists are drawn to are within thirty minutes of each other so you can comfortably visit one a day and still have time to relax.
If going for ten days to two weeks, then definitely plan a few lazy days in-between your excursions to ensure you don’t wear yourselves out in the heat. .
And remember, having a car gives you freedom to stay somewhere a little different, a little out of reach, Perhaps a small village thats more reminiscent of the Italy of your dreams!
THE ROADS.
The main autostrada that runs from Bari to Otranto is in fairly good shape but most of the secondary roads and lanes along the same route are in grave disrepair with big potholes or unpaved rocky surfaces.
However the coastal road from Otranto to Gallopoli was slightly better and the sea view was stunning. I would say the best coastal road was on the scenic drive from Porto Cesareo to Taranto.
Interestingly, President Draghi has promised that a portion of the EU Covid recovery fund will go toward revamping the souths infrastructure, Lets hope it happens. Until then I would advise you to hire a car that suits your trip, if your planning an off-the- beaten-path road trip then don’t be tempted to get a cute little 2 door Fiat.
Like all Centro Storico’s (Historical town centres) the ones in Puglia were not built to accomodate a world where everyone owns a car, The streets are narrow, generally one-way and congested. And beware because require a permit for cars to enter and have cameras strategically placed to catch the un-suspecting tourist, (*Zona Traffico Limitato). So plan your parking-spot in advance and ensure that if you book ‘Centro Storico’ accommodation it is within comfortable walking distance. It’s also worth noteing that a lot of towns have tuk tuk’s ( A tiny three wheeled van with an open-air seating area) the drivers of which hang around the old-town gates soliciting locals and tourists alike. It’s a cheap, fun and easy way to either explore a town or be delivered to your accommodation in style.
*Limited Traffic Zones (Zona Traffico Limitato) are found in most major Italian cities to reduce congestion and accommodate residents. Unfortunately many a tourist finds themselves swept unwittingly into one of these areas because roads are narrow and one-way. Fines can be steep and can take up to twelve months to reach you, by which time any chance for appeal has passed and you will probably also have a late-payment fee.
THE PARKING.
Parking is always a quandary in Italy especially parking in the Centro Storico which is next to impossible even for residents.
If you plan to stay in the Centro Storico of most of the larger towns like Ostuni, Lecce or Brindisi then expect to pay for parking – daily rate is between 5-10 euros.
Parking indicators:
- A blue sign with the white letter P or the phrase Parcheggio
- Blue lines mean you can park, but you have to pay either by scratch-card or meter
- White lines mean you can park and it’s free (but double check because the duration may vary and you may need to us a ‘parking disc’ to indicate your arrival time)
- Yellow lines are only for disabled badge holders
- There are also official and unofficial paid parking lots that are usually fenced with a gate keeper or electronic arm.
The parking dilemma is not only exclusive to the towns and cities, it is also a problem beachside where Free parking was practically non-existent, So be prepared to pay to play – prices ranged from a reasonable 4 euros to an outrageous 20-30 euros for the day. But to avoid this you’ll see locals park practically anywhere: In a field, on the side of the road or even on an embankment, however, be for warned, park like this at you own peril as we witnessed police issuing fines in more populated locations.
STAYING IN THE OLD TOWN. (CENTRO STORICO)
Almost every town and city in Italy has a ‘Centro Storico’ (old town), a wonderful place of crumbling facades and labyrinthine streets filled with history, churches that offer a glimpse into the past. Naturally, this is where the tourists flock, and for short stays, by virtue of sights and amenities, where you’ll likely spend most of your time. We found the most photogenic to be in Otranto, Locorotondo, and Monopoli.
However, that said, I will advise you to do your homework, find out if there is parking available, if there are lots of hills or stairs and the exact distance and time to walk to the amenities. As we discovered in Ostuni staying in the Centro storico wasn’t as convenient as we first thought especially in the extreme heat.
A disappointing aspect of Puglia are the sprawling modern suburbs that have sprung up around beautiful historic centres that often make them difficult to find and access.
PUGLIA DOES NOT END AT OTRANTO.
When we were researching this trip, it took some time before we released just how large the region of Puglia was, as most travellers who’d reviewed the region seemed to stick firmly to the east coast.
However there is soooo much more to Puglia than just Polignano, Ostuni, Alberobello, Lecce and Gallipoli…
THE NOTEWORTHY TOWNS.
MONOPOLI.
Although Monoploi’s sprawling new town butts right up to the walls the old town is still well worth a visit. The town juts provocatively into the sea and was founded by fishermen. The maze like streets with whitewashed houses festooned with colourful flowers and fresh laundry hung from balconies reflect the high number of local inhabitants and their civic pride. In the evening the narrow cobblestone streets are flooded with restaurant tables serving yummy fresh fish and local specialities, While boutiques of all kinds ply their wares and gorgeous people fill the streets with life as the sea breeze that weaves up from the sea offers welcome relief from the heat of the day.
LOROCORTONDO
Is a very picturesque town perched on a hill in Val D’Itria. Locorotondo means ‘round place’ And its historical center is picture perfect: small alleys, cute balconies and dainty corners quietly bask in the Southern Italian sun evoking a slow and relaxed pace of life. Lorocorotondo’s buildings are whitewashed as are 9 others in the region, And the sight of the white walls against the blue of the Apulian sky is beautiful. The town of Alberobello is also close by and named the capital of trulli (Whitewashed conical roofed houses) it’s unique main street is well worth a visit.
CEGLIE MESSAPICA.
Ceglie Messapica , one of the oldest towns in Puglia. The town stands on a hilly relief in the southern part of the Murge plateau . It is located in a rather interesting position, since it is located a few kilometers from the main towns of the region, such as Brindisi, Ostuni and Taranto. But its main feature is undoubtedly the fantastic panorama that this area offers: Ceglie Messapica extends along the valley from which it takes its name – it is called the Messapian threshold – which borders the Salento plain. From this loft vantage point you get admire the full grandeur of the ancient olive groves that unfold as far as the eye can see. Unfortunately, we only got to see this town briefly as we drove through but friends have recommended it and I wish we had more time to explore it.
SANTA MARIA DI LEUCA.
Santa Maria di Leuca is the southernmost point in Salento, Its Church, the original Santa Maria at first a sanctuary, is now the Basilica of Santa Maria De finibus terrae (at the ends of the earth). Also standing on this promontory with Santa Maria di Leuca is a famous lighthouse (157 ft tall, standing at 335 ft above sea level), while Marina di Leuca is situated further below, made up of Punta Mèliso to the east (at the feet of the promontory) and Punta Ristola in the west.
The Basilica was fortified in 1700 to protect against Turkish and Saracen assaults, but visitors today need not worry: they can frequent the buzzing seaside of Leuca in peace, admiring its ancient port and strolling its charming coast, rich as it is in oleanders and Art Nouveau villas.
LECCE.
Bequeathed with a generous stash of baroque buildings by its 17th-century architects the city has a completeness and homogeneity that other southern Italian metropolises lack. Indeed, so distinctive is Lecce’s architecture that it has acquired its own moniker, Barocco Leccese (Lecce baroque), an expressive and hugely decorative incarnation of the genre replete with gargoyles, asparagus columns and cavorting gremlins. It’s a lively, graceful but relaxed university town with some upmarket boutiques, fun galleries, decent Pugliese restaurants, and a strong tradition for making papier-mâché models of religious figures. Also it’s a great base from which to explore the Salento region. From our experience the only downside seemed to be the aggressive street hawkers that seem to over run the popular tourist areas. Now I’m all for entrepreneurship and I understand people are just trying to eek out a living but they are rude and demanding. No thank you means NO. But they were relentless and would follow us on the street and even wait outside a shop to pounce again. Or or visit multiple times when you are seated at an outside dining and harass the enjoyment right out of you.
OTRANTO
Otranto has repelled quite a few invaders over the centuries and has been brutally ravaged by others – most notably the Turks. Sleuth around its compact old quarter and you can peel its past occupants off in its layers of architecture – Greek, Roman, Turkish and Napoleonic. These days the town is a generally peaceful place, unless you’re fighting for beach space at the height of summer. Otranto was one of our absolute favourites and from the crystal clear water right off the habour full of happy bathers to it’s fabulous restaurants and unique shops it really was perfect for us.
CASTRO.
Perched atop a precipitous cliff, 100m above the sea, Castro looks out across the Adriatic towards Corfu and southern Albania, from where, it is said, Aeneas once arrived. Recent archaeological digs point to the probability of there having been a Temple of Athena on the site and this handily explains why the Romans called the town Castrum Minervae (Minerva being the Roman equivalent of the Greek goddess Athena). The Normans took control of the town in the 12th century, elevated it to a contea and started building the impressive fortress, which, alongside the defensive walls and towers, is one of Castro’s most significant attractions. Similarly venerable is Castro’s religious architecture, which includes a 12th century cathedral with a delightful Romanesque façade, and the remains of a small 10th century Byzantine church. All the narrow windingroads seem to lead to the main square and the panoramic terrazza from where the views out to sea are superb. Down below, Castro Marina was alive with bars, restaurants and cafés. The little harbour, home to the town’s small fishing fleet, impressive yachts and pleasure boats also offers day cruises to the caves and coves or for the more adventurous the opportunity to rent your own boat to explore the coastline at leisure.
PORTO CESAREO.
Porto Cesareo, 28 km away from Lecce, is located by the Ionian Sea and it is a beloved tourist location, in the heart of the Terra d’Arneo (Arneo Land). Well-known for its golden beaches, azure sea and ancient towers, notably: Torre Cesarea, Torre Chianca and Torre Lapillo. This small picture perfect village sits around a beautiful port, where you’ll find the fish market and the colourful fishing boats. Porto Cesareo belongs to the Protected Marine Area among the largest in Italy. It is worth to take a stroll along the trails which go through the park, to immerse in the unspoiled nature and visit the Research Station of Marine Biology and the Oceanography Museum. There are several small sand-bank islands adjacent to the port and water taxis regularly shuttle beach goers back and forth throughout the day, The shallow calm waters make it perfect for young children or less experienced swimmers.
YOU CAN STAY IN A TRULLI- TRULY
The trulli are dotted across the Puglian landscape and are perhaps the emblem of this region. They are whimsical in design and fairytale like in their structure and could be easily mistaken for something from the lord of the rings.
These other worldly structures have been present in Puglia for several thousand years and have a history that although widely discussed, continues to mystify historians as to their true origins. Were they the result of Greek invasion or the heavy tax laws of the 17th century when any permanent structure incurred a significant levy – When being able to topple your trulli with the removal of a single keystone would have been of tremendous benefit to a poor farmer.
Perhaps we’ll never know, but that doesn’t make their existence – and experience – any less of a Puglian must.
On a recent trip to Puglia our good friends stayed in a trulli and raved about the experience: The dome holding the heat leaving the sleeping chamber wonderfully cool – With no hum of an air conditioner or windows to let in light or sound make them the perfect environment for a great nights sleep. You can rent trullis on Airbnb, take a look at some of the best Airbnb options in Puglia for inspiration.
THE FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD.
The food in Puglia is delicious and was definitely a hit for us. Seafood is plentiful and caught daily and in almost all towns, pasta is handmade, the pizza is divine, olive oil is local, and we never met a piece of bread (focaccia is a speciality of this region) we didn’t immediately inhale. We indulged, and indulged even more – And you should too.
For millennia Puglia has been predominantly an agricultural region, producing around 40% of Italy’s olive oil and a large proportion of its wine. Vast tracts of the region’s territory are given over to farming, whether it be crops or livestock, and many inhabitants continue to grow their own produce.
This essentially agricultural nature means that the region’s cuisine is home-country inspired, predominantly using the abundant local produce such as durum wheat, tomatoes, artichokes, fava beans, rocket, courgettes, beans, fennel, peppers, onions, beef and lamb.
In terms of pasta, Puglians pride themselves on their orecchiette, little ear-shaped shells that are still produced by hand on a daily basis by many signore. It is usually served with tasty sauces such as meat ragu, broccoli and lard, mushrooms or turnip tops. The pasta itself is made rigorously from durum wheat flour, water and salt. Eggs once considered a luxury, are not used in traditional Puglian pasta-making.
The other star in on the menu is of course the seafood. Puglia’s long coastline and fishing tradition bring large quantities of seafood to the table. Red mullet, anchovies, gilt-head bream, mussels, sea bass and cuttlefish are featured in many recipes and the many seafront restaurants in towns like Gallipoli, Otranto, Brindisi and Taranto serve up feasts of just-caught fish and let me tell you they know how to cook a fish.
Over our two weeks in Puglia we never had a bad meal, everywhere we ate whether a hole in the wall cafe or 5-star restaurant was sensational – Buon Appetito
THE NOTEWORTHY BARS AND RESTAURANTS.
SALEBLU RESTAURANT-MONOPOLI
We stumbled upon this restaurant purely by happenstance, From our sun beds we spotted a shimmering white oasis that seemed to float in the azure sea, So at lunchtime we made our way around the beach to investigate, And discovered it was a fabulous 5 star Hotel La Peschiera. Saleblu is the restaurant (a reference to the Persian blue salt used in the kitchen) and is the jewel in the hotel’s crown. Perched right on the water’s edge overlooking a specially dug lap channel and shaded by rippling canvas sails, the all-white terrace combines with the blue of the Adriatic to form the most classic of maritime colour schemes. Come evening, the open sides give diners uninterrupted sunset views. Naturally, seafood’s the speciality, paired with vegetables from local farms and wine from Puglian vines. Whether you’re in the mood for oysters, langoustines or grilled snapper, you can be sure it will be prepared perfectly by their classically trained chefs.
PIAZZA PALMIERI-MONOPOLI
This delightful restaurant right in the heart of Monopoli is defiantly one to visit. Piazza Palmieri is where tradition and creativity meet and this is reflected on the menus with a mix of some local classics and some sophisticated dishes all made to perfection. Especially yummy was the fritti di mare and the whole fish.
ESSENZA RISTORANTE-SAN MICHELLE SALENTINO
If your looking for a place where the locals go then this is the restaurant for you, It came highly recommended by a Puglianese and he was absolutely right. Located in a authentic small town called San Michelle Salentino the restaurant is located adjacent to the pretty town square. There are two crisp white washed dining rooms with vaulted ceilings and an expansive outside terrace. But forget the stylish interior the stand out thing here is the food, From homemade bread served in a delightful little box to the the daily catch, Wheeled to the table for your appreciation then prepared perfectly to your liking dining at Essenza won’t break the bank and is a dining experience you’ll probably never forget.
COFFE AND MORE-OSTUNI
Excellent lunch time option with lots of fantastic sandwiches, mezze-style plates, veggie and healthy options. They also have a great wine and beer selection and wonderful outdoor seating with stunning views. Defiantly go for the platter with scallops, it was simply sensational.
SOFISH/SANTAMAREA-OTRANTO
‘SoFish’ is a street food Mecca tucked away in one of the many alleyways of Otranto’s old town. They serve up scrumptious fish sandwiches, lobster rolls and local delights like the octopus panini. Not only do they have a take window for all their yummy treats you can also dine in. However, we were having an aperitivo at what turned out to be their sister location Santa Marea on Otranto’s sea wall, we noticed the same moniker on the placement and asked if it would be possible to get a lobster roll from SoFish, It so happened that we unknowingly asked the owner of both locations and he happily complied. The roll was delivered by a waiter on a hover board, and arriving by land, sea and air it turned out to be the BEST lobster roll we ever had! And having spent time in Louisiana and New England where we’ve enjoyed fabulous crustaceans that was quite an achievement. That evening we were also introduced to a delicious Puglian gin called MUMA, distilled with sea water.
FRONTE MARE-OTRANTO
This is modern eatery with an inventive menu. Only recently opened by three talented brothers from a farming family most of its produce is either home-grown or sourced from local contacts. The large stepped terrace overlooks the bay and old town offering wonderful sunset views whilst the interiors are are stylish and comfortable. The food was superb, the creative chef successfully elevated simple, fresh and local ingredients into something truly special. And overall the menu is great value for money.
BAR DI CARLO-PORTO BADISCO
This little no frills cafe with an amazing view is the perfect place to stop for a coffee, lunch or to pick up a made to order panini from the deli in the back before you head off to your next location.
LO SCALO-MARINA DI NOVAGLIE
The restaurant is perched on a cliff top over looking the azure sea and you’ll be entertained throughout your meal by young and old thrill-seekers leaping from the high rocks into the sea. The food was good but very expensive and my advice would be to check the price of the fresh fish before you ‘dive-in.’
AGRITURISMO FONTAN DI NOCE-MATERA
This agriturismo is not located in Matera itself but a 20 minute drive away in Miglionico. It was a grand villa that had been left to ruin and was bought by a generous family who have spent 20 painstaking years bringing it back to life. The restaurant interior has vaulted ceilings and the original (restored) enormous chandeliers that are simply exquisite, Whilst the large terrace offers dining al-fresco and sweeping views of the rolling countryside where the landscape is reminiscent of Tuscany. This a true family business, mama in the kitchen, papa in the fields and the daughters front of house. The daily menu is the same for all diners, they explain the dishes you will receive and were very accommodating when not came to food allergies/preference. But of with an appetite because the food is plentiful, rustic yet refined and features many specialities of the region. Almost everything they serve is produced on their farm from the olive oil and wine to the produce and meats even the bread is homemade.
THE LIDO RULES.
And, they do ‘rule’ as they dominate almost every shore of the east coast from Bari to Otranto and on the west coast from Marina di Pescouluse to Gallipoli. (To find out more about the Italian Lido click here) .
There are many fabulous beaches in Italy, and I happen to be of the opinion that everybody should have access to them. Unfortunately, in Puglia (as in many areas of Italy), large sections of beach along the coast are either completely inaccessible unless you pay a fee.
It’s a thorny issue in Italy, and whilst you may see some brave Italians placing towels right at the water’s edge, directly in front of the lido’s sun loungers, technically they’re on private property and could be moved along. It unfortunately meant that on occasion when we pulled up to what we thought as a beautiful beach area over the crest of the dunes we’d find a horrendous explosion of signs and sun beds, meaning we’d turn around and return to the car.
If the somewhat nuanced rules of the lido’s become a little too much for you, consider visiting one of the ‘free beaches’, or spiaggia libera. Although significantly rarer, they at least allow you the opportunity to plonk your towel wherever you damn please! Below are some of our beach finds that were less crowded, not on the must see lists and some were even lido free.
THE NOTEWORTHY BEACHES.
SPIAGGIA DI CAPITOLO
The Capitolo beach is part of the splendid territory of Monopoli, it is one of the nicest beaches we found along the east coast. This fine golden sand beach is located in the hamlet of Capitolo, a few kilometers from the city center. Although, there are the ubiquitous lido’s it is possible to access the free beach quite easily.
PORTO BADISCO SPIAGGIA.
Posto Badisco, a natural inlet with a beach and a calm sea, Enea landed Natural port of the Salento Andriatico, Badisco is just north of ‘Punta Scuru’, about 12km south of Otranto. The seaside resort has a beach of modest size, tenderly embraced by two granite rocky ridges, which protect it from the winds, even if strong, making the sea calm, almost at all times of the year.
MARINA DI NOVAGLIE.
Marina di Novaglie is characterized by a low cliff and is ideal for lovers of scuba diving, rowing and fishing. It is accessed via an asphalted road, which starts from the coast road and arrives at the seaside village. The more adventurous can explore by canoe, kayak or with guided tours by boat, in search of the numerous and splendid natural sea caves that embellish the coastal stretch. Those who simple want to relax you can rent Beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sun beds at Lo scalo’s lido, a lido like no other it’s perched on a cliff face with access to the water from a stair way.
RISERVA NATURALE LE CESINE.
Le Cesine Spiaggia is part of the nature reserve on the coastal road between San Cataldo and Otranto located in the town of Vernole. You can access the beach along a wooden path between the dunes covered in Mediterranean vegetation and Sea Lily’s. This spacious beach has volcanic black sand and crystal clear water. There is also a lovely beach bar and small lido that is perfect for lunch or an afternoon cocktail.
OTRANTO PORTO & COVES.
This part of Puglia has some on the most lovely beaches including the harbour which has the cleanest and clearest water I have ever seen in a port which temps most visitors to take dip. Otranto also boasts several lovely sandy beaches, with a couple just a stones throw from the Centro storico. And just a few kilometres south of Otranto, at Capo d’Otranto, one comes to the easternmost point of Italy, it is here at tip of the heel where the Adriatic and the Ionian seas meet and mingle at Santa Maria di Leuca, the coastline in this part is characterised by rocky cliffs, probing inlets and sandy coves. You are really spoilt for choice here and as it is not on most peoples radar yet the beaches are not as crowded.
TORRE LAPILLO BAY. (Porto Cesareo)
Torre Lapillo, a jewel of nature set in the Marine Reserve of Porto Cesareo. It is more lovely than the so called Maldives of Italy and is almost like being in the Caribbean. As it’s no as well known as the other beaches along this stretch you can find a quiet piece of sand to while the away day undisturbed.
MONSCO MIRANTE.
This was our favourite beach in Puglia and if we had decided to start our trip on the west coast and happened upon Mirante we may have never made to the east coast. Monaco Mirante was an ideal beach for us, it was wild, sparse and uncontaminated, without a lido in sight for miles. In fact the whole of this coastal road from Campomarino to San Pietro in Bevagna, north of Porto Cesareo with it’s gentle hills peppered with brush, sea grass and wild flowers brought to mind the Australian or California coasts. The shore a combination of borders, golden sand and turquoise water was all so dreamy. This area is not on the tourists radar as it’s a little isolated with only few restaurants, bars and shops, that said it’s only an hour from Lecce or Ostuni. It’s definitely the place to come and relax and decompress in this paradise.
YOU CAN NIP TO MATERA.
When we were planning our road trip, one place kept popping up – Matera, perhaps because of the hype around the new Bond film, ‘No time to die’ and it’s delayed and delayed and delayed release.
This interesting city, one of the longest inhabited in the world – and 2019 European City of Culture – is a no-brainer when planning your Puglia road trip. Of course, it’s not actually in Puglia but don’t you dare let that put you off.
It’s breathtaking architecture make it well worth a visit, although be prepared for the touristy nature of the place. If your your looking to stay the night we were referred by a friend to stay in wonderful b&b (Residenza Delle Grazie) just a short drive away in a neighbouring village.
WHAT WOULD WE HAVE DONE DIFFERENTLY?
Of course every trip is subjective and it’s success or failure is dependant on a huge number of factors. For us the un-seasonal 40+ degree heat toward the end of June made the going tough as we had several overnight stays and should probably have just chosen two central locations to tour from as we discovered most of the noteworthy sights are reachable within thirty to forty minutes from most popular towns, and to cross from the east to west coasts takes only an hour. Secondly, I came to realise I’m just not a road trip person, I like the idea of it but the reality of the constant checking in and out, together with loading and unloading of the car never let us feel settled and was way too much like hard work for a vacation.
FINAL THOUGHTS.
Is Puglia worth a visit? Absolutely, The food is fabulous, the architecture is interesting and the people, (outside of the main tourist hubs) are generous and thoughtful.
Will we go back? Let’s just say with so much Italy still to explore we won’t be rushing back any time soon. So for us it’s Grazie and Arrivederci Puglia.
If you to happen to venture to Puglia and discover any gems you’d like to share, please message me.
A curious adventurer living la dolce vita creating insightful narratives with his skills as a Freelance Writer, Content Creator and printmaker taking you on adventures through the wonderful landscape of fine food, wine, art and all things Italian.
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Hairstyles
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