CHRISTMAS IN ITALY: DISCOVER ALL THE ITALIAN TIDINGS AND TRADITIONS

CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON LIKE AN ITALIAN.

Throughout Italy, winter gently wraps us in a tapestry of crisp air infused with the comforting aroma of wood-burning chimneys. It invites us into a season of heartwarming holidays, where delectable dishes sizzle over open flames and cozy firesides welcome us with open arms. As night falls, the country transforms into a magical wonderland, adorned with towering Christmas trees embellished with shimmering ornaments and twinkling lights that dance in the darkness, casting a warm glow on our hearts. Storefronts come alive with enchanting displays, while lively holiday markets fill the quaint town squares. Locals, bundled in festive shawls and scarves, gather around traditional stoves on street corners, savoring vin brulé and roasted chestnuts, sharing laughter and stories. For those yearning for an old-fashioned Christmas experience, Italy offers a perfect embrace. Though the holiday spirit in Umbria has become more commercial over the years, the charm of its timeless traditions still lingers, allowing a winter getaway or festive retreat in Italy’s verdant heart to feel truly unforgettable, especially when December blankets the land in a delicate shroud of white snow, inviting us to create cherished memories together.

The holiday season in Italy kicks off on December 8th, known as the Day of the Immaculate Conception. During this time, Italian families adorn their homes, set up Christmas trees, bake cookies, and lovingly wrap gifts. Schools and government offices close for the festivities. The streets are splendidly decorated, and holiday markets operate from November until January 6th, which marks Epiphany. This day commemorates the arrival of the Three Wise Men in Bethlehem, who brought gifts for Baby Jesus.

Important dates during the Italian festive season.

• DECEMBER 6: La Festa di San Nicola – The festival in honor of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of shepherds, is celebrated in towns such as Pollutri with the lighting of fires under enormous cauldrons, in which fave (broad beans) are cooked, then eaten ceremoniously.
• DECEMBER 8: L’Immacolata Concezione – celebration of the Immaculate Conception
• DECEMBER 13: La Festa di Santa Lucia – St. Lucy’s Day
• DECEMBER 24: La Vigilia di Natale – Christmas Eve
• DECEMBER 25: Natale – Christmas
• DECEMBER 26: La Festa di Santo Stefano – St. Stephen’s Day marks the announcement of the birth of Jesus and the arrival of the Three Wise Men
• DECEMBER 31: La Festa di San Silvestro – New Year’s Eve
• JANUARY 1: Il Capodanno – New Year’s Day
• JANUARY 6: La Festa dell’Epifania – The Epiphany

Get ready to jingle all the way through some of the most epic events and traditions that make Christmas in Italy a festive wonderland! And if you want to dive headfirst into the authentic Italian holiday spirit, we’re rolling out the red carpet for you at GROVE COTTAGE.

NATIVITY SCENES (PRESEPE).

Wandering through the streets of Italy during the holiday season is truly a magical experience. Everywhere you look, you’ll encounter stunning creches, ranging from simple, small manger scenes to elaborate, intricately crafted villages featuring flowing fountains, crackling woodfires, and animated figurines.

It’s remarkable how every shop window, church nook, and piazza presents its own distinct interpretation of these delightful scenes. What truly touches your heart is the unexpected creativity that blossoms among the typically reserved Umbrian neighbors during this festive season. Many dedicate countless hours to collect stones, bark, moss, and fine sand, fashioning rolling landscapes adorned with tiny figurines of shepherds, washerwomen, market vendors, and the Holy Family. These modest yet breathtaking creations are a must-see.

The live nativity pageants, known as “Presepe vivente,” hold a special significance for the locals. This tradition was first initiated by St. Francis of Assisi in the charming town of Greccio in 1223. The deep historical roots of this custom, along with the picturesque medieval stone hill towns of the region, create an enchanting atmosphere, making it feel as if these towns were intentionally designed to embody a live nativity scene.

When you participate in these events, bundling up against the chilly night air is definitely worthwhile. You can stroll through the torchlit streets, savoring the cozy ambiance while enjoying a delightful mix of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine. Just a short distance from Città della Pieve, you will find a mesmerizing live Presepe in Monteleone di Orvieto. This captivating display occurs after sunset on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and the Epiphany. Meanwhile, in Città della Pieve, an impressive Presepe awaits your visit. It has been intricately designed with remarkable detail and frequently features a contemporary theme, such as climate change. The Presepe winds through the underground catacombs of the Palazzo della Corgna, adding an element of intrigue to the experience.

THE SHOOTING STAR.

The shooting star is believed to have led the three wise men to baby Jesus and has transformed into a prominent Christmas symbol, often seen atop trees and projected onto majestic buildings. It also appears in sculptures that embellish public squares. One of the most renowned examples is set up annually in Verona.

This massive metal star has been a fixture in Piazza Bra since 1984, becoming a vital part of the Christmas celebration in Verona. Standing at 70 meters tall and weighing an impressive 78 tons, it truly captivates onlookers.

THE CHRISTMAS TREE.

In Italy, the arrival of this beloved symbol in the late nineteenth century brought a wave of joy and unity. It was Queen Margherita of Savoy who introduced the beautifully decorated Christmas tree to the Quirinale Palace in Rome, setting off a trend that quickly spread across the entire country.

In Umbria, we take pride in having two of the largest Christmas trees in the world. One of these stands majestically on the slopes of Monte Ingino, overlooking the medieval town of Gubbio. Each year, the town comes alive with a stunning lighting ceremony, a cherished tradition that has been celebrated since 1981. Topped with a magnificent star, this towering tree reaches an impressive height of 750 meters and earned its spot in the prestigious Guinness World Records in 1991.

This grand tree is adorned with 300 vibrant green lights that highlight its splendor for all to admire. As you approach, you will be captivated by its interior, embellished with 400 dazzling multicolored lights. Each light carries a special significance, as they have been lovingly “adopted” by locals, each dedicating them to their loved ones. From joyful messages welcoming newborns to heartfelt tributes honoring beloved grandparents who watch over us, each light tells a personal story, weaving a tapestry of love and remembrance within the community.

The second destination worth exploring is the picturesque village of Castiglione del Lago, which boasts breathtaking views of Lake Trasimeno. Here, you can experience ‘Luci sul Trasimeno,’ a captivating installation featuring 165 nine-meter support poles submerged in the lake, arranged to resemble a Christmas tree. This extraordinary creation holds the Guinness World Record for the Largest Floating Christmas tree. Stretching over 1 kilometer and embellished with 2,600 perimeter lights linked by 7 kilometers of electrical cable, it is truly a mesmerizing sight. Be sure to visit and soak in the enchanting atmosphere of ‘Luci sul Trasimeno.’

WREATHS AND MISTLETOE.

Laurel leaves hold a beloved significance during the Christmas season in Italy. They are affectionately crafted into wreaths (known as “una ghirlanda natale d’alloro”) to attract good fortune and are used as centerpieces on tables. This charming tradition traces back to ancient Rome, where the pagan god Ianus (Janus) was celebrated on January 1st. During this time, people exchanged gifts of figs and dates, accompanied by laurel leaves.

In the Christian tradition, the Advent wreath is particularly meaningful. Unlike the front door, it is typically displayed on a table, symbolizing the anticipation of Jesus Christ’s birth. Made from evergreens to represent eternal life, the circular shape of the wreath signifies infinity. Holly leaves serve as a reminder of Christ’s crown of thorns, while the berries symbolize his precious blood. The wreath is decorated with four candles, usually three purple and one pink, reflecting the vestments worn by priests during this sacred period.

This charming tradition boasts a rich, captivating history, infusing the holiday season with romance and warmth. Believed to bring love and protection, particularly for couples, it has roots in ancient pagan rituals and is now closely associated with Christmas. In pagan culture, mistletoe represented love, prosperity, and fertility. As Christianity spread, this practice evolved into the custom of kissing beneath the mistletoe. The way mistletoe grows on trees adds to its ethereal and heavenly significance. While primarily linked to Christmas, variations in timing can be found across the globe. For example, in Italy, people kiss under the mistletoe on New Year’s Eve to wish for love and good fortune in the year ahead.

A TIME TO GIVE BACK.

Throughout December, Italians organise charity food collections for families in need. You may see volunteers hand out empty shopping bags at local supermarkets, which you can use for food products you purchase and then hand back to the volunteers. Italians buy what they can afford, and no one looks into the bag when it is handed back, thus making it a more personal and discreet way to donate.

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING.

When shopping for gifts in Italy, it is common for salespeople to offer complimentary gift wrapping for your purchases. Although it may take some time, you will be thrilled with the outcome, as they utilize high-quality patterned paper, raffia bows, and gift tags, even for the tiniest items. You’ll also observe that if a long line forms behind you, no one grumbles or complains; everyone anticipates receiving the same festive service.

In England and America, the significant Christmas sales typically kick off on Boxing Day (26th December), while in Italy, the winter sales begin around 5th January. This timing allows people to fully enjoy the festivities and still have a few days to shop the sales before returning to work.

The tradition of sending Christmas cards is less common in Italy compared to other countries, as families and relatives tend to meet frequently. Additionally, Christmas cards can be pretty pricey, with simple cards from local supermarkets starting at around 2.90 euros, and postage costs can add up. It’s often more enjoyable to invest that money in delicious panettone and pandoro!

THE ITALIAN GIFT BEARERS.

What about the gifts? Is it Santa Claus, Santa Lucia, San Nicola, or Jesus who brings the treasures in Italy? Today, Italy embraces its own cheerful figure in red – Babbo Natale! He serves as the Italian equivalent of Santa Claus. All these characters share a common lineage traced to a notable historical figure: St. Nicholas, Bishop of Myra (now Demre, Turkey). According to legend, St. Nicholas brought three children back to life after they were killed by a wicked innkeeper, thus earning the esteemed title of Protector of Children. Similar to children in other countries, Italian youngsters write heartfelt letters to Babbo Natale. However, they can send their letters online or by traditional mail, free of charge via Poste Italiane (the Italian Postal Service), with a promise of a response.

DON’T MISS OUT!

In the enchanting city of Venice, Santa Claus takes to the waves in a jolly regatta where festive folks decked out in red race traditional Venetian boats down the Grand Canal, from San Marco (Pieta) to Ca Foscari! This merry spectacle splashes into action during the third week of December! And guess what? There’s a whimsical water parade too, with kids getting the chance to meet Santa and his cheerful elves right on Santa’s very own boat!In Venice, there is even a Santa Claus Regatta where people dressed as Santa compete in small traditional Venetian boats along the Grand Canal from San Marco (Pieta) to Ca Foscari. The regatta is traditionally held in the third week of December. There is also an accompanying water parade and children have the opportunity to meet Santa and his elves on Santa’s own boat.

Whilst you are here in Città della Pieve, it’s heartwarming to experience the festive spirit with the ‘Babbo Natale’ Christmas band parading through the streets of the old town, dressed in Santa costumes and joyfully playing holiday classics. Italy has embraced the tradition of Babbo Natale (Father Christmas), but it’s worth noting that different regions have their own unique customs. In northern Italy and some parts of southern Italy, children eagerly anticipate December 6th, St. Nicholas Day (La Festa di San Nicola). On this special night, gifts are exchanged in celebration of the beloved and revered saint. St. Nicholas, who lived between the 3rd and 4th centuries AD, passed away on December 6th, 343. This significant date was later chosen as the day to honor him. Today, his relics are preserved in the city of Bari, where he has been revered as a patron for countless centuries.

Saint Nicholas, renowned for his remarkable kindness, was always eager to help the needy and the less fortunate. His enduring popularity has contributed to the creation of Santa Claus, as previously mentioned.

Similarly, in Bergamo and Verona, children celebrate Santa Lucia on December 13th. Her name comes from the Latin word “lux,” which means light. Santa Lucia, or St. Lucy as she is called in English-speaking countries, is honored as the bringer of light in the midst of dark, cold winters. Children often write letters to the saint, detailing their good behavior and their worthiness of receiving a gift. In gratitude, they leave hay, milk, or carrots for her donkey, along with a cup of coffee and some bread and biscuits for Santa Lucia herself. Interestingly, parents find relief in the fact that children tend to fall asleep easily on this special night. According to tradition, if the saint discovers them awake, she may sprinkle ashes and blind them.

In a time when consumerism was less prevalent and global influences were fewer, it was even Jesus Christ himself who was traditionally believed to give gifts to Italian children.

MASSES AND MUSIC.

Christmas season masses are held on December 8th and 26th — the Feast of Saint Stephen — and on January 6th. But of course, the most poignant and beautiful Masses are those at midnight on Christmas Eve. The festive atmosphere, seasonal music (many have special Christmas music programs during the Mass), and pretty evening lighting make it worth the lost sleep. Even if you are not drawn to Mass, you can enjoy wonderful classical music in many of the same cathedrals during their Christmas concerts — usually held in the afternoon, a few days before or after the 25th. Otherwise, if the thought of one more carol or Handel piece is more than you can bear, shake things up a bit at either the winter edition of the famed Umbria Jazz Festival — held in Orvieto each holiday season.

ASSISI – THE FATHER OF CAROLING.

Before the time of St. Francis, only the esteemed church officials were encouraged to uplift their voices in song with carols. Yet in 1223, the saint unveiled a creche (a miniature Nativity scene) in a hermitage in Greccio, Italy. This moment sparked a divine transformation, as churches soon began to adorn their halls with such sacred displays at Christmas. As the spirit of the Holy Night flourished, people took to the stage to reenact the cherished events of that miraculous eve. In their joyful performances, they birthed Christmas carols, serenading the streets as they wandered, giving rise to the cherished tradition of carolling.

By the Middle Ages, wandering minstrels roamed from village to castle, sharing their festive carols. In later years, villages formed their own groups known as “waits.” Initially, watchmen were those who patrolled the streets of old walled cities, guarding against fires while singing to pass the night. During the holiday season, their performances began to feature carols. Over time, the term evolved to refer to groups of musicians who entertained at various civic events throughout the Christmas season. The town of Assisi continues this delightful tradition, transforming into a magical display of lights and hosting a market filled with wandering carolers during the festive season.

CLAP ALONG TO THE ZAMPOGNARI.

Think bagpipes are just for Scotland? Think again! In Italy, those iconic sounds fill the air as you meander through markets during Christmas. Meet the Zampognari, musicians rocking sheepskin vests, channeling their inner shepherds! These mountain folk would trudge down from the hills to join in the Novena festivities—the nine-day lead-up to Christmas when shepherds flock to see baby Jesus. They even got their name from their trusty instrument, the zampogna! While this festive vibe is primarily a southern affair, you might catch it as far north as Bologna, where the Umbrian town of Spello throws a medieval music and bagpipe bash every year. Oh, and don’t miss the adorable tradition of kids in shepherd costumes going door-to-door singing Christmas carols during Novena, often scoring some cash or sweet treats for their efforts! How merry is that?

THE CHRISTMAS FEASTS.

Around the globe, Christmas is celebrated with an abundance of delightful foods. In Italy, where culinary excellence reigns and every meal is a celebration, the Italians truly shine. From antipasti to dessert, from breakfast to dinner, and throughout the festive period from Christmas Eve to la Befana day, Italians create special delicacies. Here are some of the most beloved treats:

On an Italian Christmas Eve—only fish will do! Following tradition, the Christmas Eve meal, known as La Vigilia, consists solely of fish and vegetables, avoiding meat altogether. This aligns with the practice of observing a giorno di magro, a light day of eating intended to purify the body for the festivities. However, whether the fish dishes served are genuinely considered “light” is another matter!

A classic dish for this evening is capitone (eel), but these days, more popular choices include baccalà, octopus, and shellfish. In Rome, locals enjoy a favorite called pezzetti—fried cubes of ricotta or pieces of artichokes, zucchini, or broccoli. In Naples, it’s common to kick off the meal with a sautéed blend of broccoli and seafood.

And then we come to the pasta dishes, which vary by region. In Northern Italy, particularly Lombardy and Piedmont, lasagna is topped with anchovies, Parmesan, and various seasonings. Meanwhile, in Naples, vermicelli is typically served with clams or mussels.

If you thought this was just a simple three-course meal, think again! Traditionally, the feast extends far beyond that… but there’s a theological explanation for this abundance! Seven courses may symbolize the seven sacraments; nine represent the Trinity squared; twelve are for the apostles; thirteen for the disciples with Jesus; or even an impressive twenty-one to signify the Trinity multiplied by the seven sacraments. So, on Christmas Eve, take your time and enjoy each dish, knowing that the next day brings the grand Feast.

On Christmas Day, the table is adorned with a delightful selection of appetizers. We have the refreshing seafood salad, the tender fresh salmon or tuna, and the mouthwatering shrimp served with cocktail sauce. Let’s not overlook the variety of cured meats and salumi that grace the table. For the second course, which often features pasta, choices vary by region. However, the most famous dishes include tortellini in broth, lasagna, or pasticcio – reminiscent of grandma’s cooking. After the pasta, we move on to roasted meats, typically lamb, pork, and goose, paired with seasonal vegetables.

No Italian Christmas lunch would be complete without the beloved sweet treats. We have the traditional Veronese buttery sweet yeast bread known as pandoro, and the tall Lombardian sweet bread filled with raisins and dried fruits called panettone. To further satisfy our cravings, we enjoy classic Italian nougat, exquisite Perugino chocolate, and homemade cookies, such as the hazelnut biscuits known as baci di Dama from Turin. Christmas in Italy is truly a sensory delight.

The holiday menu would be incomplete without highlighting a vital element cherished by Italians at every meal: wine! It truly elevates any dining experience. Luckily, we offer an exquisite range of wines perfect for every occasion.

For your Christmas roast, you can’t go wrong with a magnificent Brunello di Montalcino or a Super Tuscan red, such as Biondi Santi or San Polo. If white wine is more to your taste and pairs well with various dishes, consider the delightful Umbrian Grechetto or Trebbiano. A Piedmont Arneis from Castello di Neive or Ceretto would also make an excellent choice. For a festive “Cin Cin” moment, sparkling wines like Franciacorta (from Bellavista, Ca’ del Bosco, or Ricci Curbastro) or Ferrari Trento DOC are ideal. And let’s not overlook Vin Santo, the traditional Tuscan and Umbrian dessert wine that pairs beautifully with panettone or cantucci.

If you can’t experience Italy’s traditional Christmas foods firsthand this holiday season, consider visiting a food festival or Christmas market instead. These celebrations feature enchanting stalls filled with handicrafts, regional delicacies, and, of course, wines, including the beloved vin brulè (mulled wine). It’s a delightful way to immerse yourself in the holiday spirit and enjoy the wonders of Italian cuisine.

RINGING IN THE NEW YEAR ITALIAN STYLE.

The New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner is a wonderful tradition filled with an array of delicious treats from various regions. One can always find two mainstays, the Zampone and the Cotechino, accompanied by lentils. The symbolism behind these dishes is truly charming – the abundance of lentils is believed to represent the money that will come our way in the coming year. So, the more lentils you eat, the more money you’ll make! To conclude this delightful feast, dried fruit and grapes are served. It is said that having grapes on the table on New Year’s Day will bring good fortune, as those who partake in them will have financial prosperity throughout the year. Such traditions add a touch of magic and anticipation to the festivities!

GOING OUT WITH A BANG.

In Italy, the arrival of the New Year is celebrated with an overwhelming surge of joy and excitement. The night sky bursts into life with a spectacular array of firecrackers and fireworks, lighting up the darkness and igniting hopes for the year ahead. As the clock strikes midnight, Italians gather to share heartfelt wishes and partake in the cherished tradition of kissing their loved ones beneath the mistletoe. What better way to welcome new beginnings than with a glass of exquisite Italian sparkling wine? Let the effervescence of joy and optimism fill your glass as you raise it high, celebrating the endless possibilities that the coming year holds. Here’s to a splendid New Year in Italy!

RED KNICKERS!

The color red is like a lucky charm for inviting good vibes! Believe it or not, slipping into a red undergarment on New Year’s Eve is like a magical shield against bad energy, setting you up for a fabulous year ahead. But hold your horses! There are some quirky rules: first, your red undies must be brand spankin’ new and given as a gift—no self-shopping allowed! So, make sure to add this hot item to your Christmas wish list! And don’t sweat it; after the holiday rush, lingerie shops will be bursting with red goodies for everyone, ready to kick off the New Year in style!

THROWING OLD THINGS OUT OF THE WINDOW.

Even though it used to be way more popular, the tradition of throwing old belongings out of the window is probably one of the oldest Italian New Year’s traditions. Practiced throughout Italy, but considered Neapolitan in its essence, this tradition was a way of letting go of past unhappiness on New Year’s Eve. Today, most Italians have abandoned this practice, and those who still observe it do so inside the house, against a wall, or on the floor. (Disclaimer: – if you do decide to throw anything out of the window, please be mindful of your surroundings.) (I cannot be held responsible if an unlucky passerby gets hurt.)

NEW YEAR BINGO.

During Italian New Year’s parties, guests often find joy in playing a beloved game, known as ‘Tombola’, which for you and I, is simply bingo. This delightful game has its origins in Naples, way back in 1734. It was King Charles III of Bourbon, the king of Naples and Sicily, who had the ingenious idea of making the lottery game known as ‘lotto’ accessible to the public. Up until then, it had been a clandestine affair in the Kingdom. The purpose was to bring it into the open, regulate it, collect taxes, and ensure a substantial source of income. Such an intriguing history behind this entertaining game!

The Dominican friar Gregorio Maria Rocco condemned the lottery as deceptive and immoral. Despite his objections, Charles III eventually legalized the game in Naples, stipulating that it be paused during Christmas. Nonetheless, the lottery became deeply embedded in Neapolitan culture, evolving into a year-round family board game. Lotto and tombola continue to thrive in Italy, where players choose five numbers from 1 to 90. Superstitions and dream interpretations play a significant role in selecting numbers. The Smorfia, a well-known collection of images and meanings associated with each number, helps players decipher their dreams and determine which numbers to select. With roots in the ancient Jewish Kabbalah, the Smorfia is regarded by many as a pathway to striking it rich.

BEFANA AND HER WITCHY WAYS.

The holiday season in Italy concludes on January 6th, known as Epiphany day or “giorno della Befana”. During this special night, children eagerly await the arrival of the Befana, a legendary character from Italian folklore. According to the tales, the Befana is depicted as a witch-like woman who gracefully descends on a broomstick, symbolizing the sweeping away of the old year and the welcoming of a new one filled with hope and happiness.

Similar to the beloved Santa Claus, the Befana travels through chimneys, leaving delightful surprises for children. These surprises can range from sweets and chocolates to a lump of coal, depending on the child’s behavior throughout the year. However, in the charming town of Città della Pieve, a unique tradition takes place. A high wire is stretched from the cathedral tower to the town square, and the Befana, embodied by a courageous fireman dressed as a witch, exhilaratingly zips high above, showering the piazza with a cascade of candies. The children’s joyful screams fill the air, making it a truly awe-inspiring spectacle.

The celebration of Epiphany in Italy is filled with enchantment and delight, as families come together to bid farewell to the holiday season and embrace the promises of a new beginning. It is a cherished tradition that brings joy and excitement to young and old alike, creating beautiful memories that will be treasured for a lifetime.

ITALIAN SEASONS GREETINGS.

Now that you’ve journeyed through the enchanting traditions of Christmas celebrations, allow me to unveil some delightful Italian holiday greetings. To bestow the wishes of Merry Christmas, you can exclaim “Buon Natale” (Natal-eh) in Italian or “Bon Natali” (Natal-e) in the charming Sicilian dialect. Should you wander into the South Tyrol region, where the melodic Ladin tongue is spoken, greet others with “Bon/Bun Nadèl” (Nad-ell). For a warm holiday salutation, utter “Buona Festa.” As the New Year approaches, convey your heartfelt wishes to loved ones with “Buon anno” or the more festive “Felice Anno Nuovo.” Embrace the joy of sharing these beautiful phrases!

Wherever you find yourselves this holiday season I wish you good health, happiness and a wonderful New Year.

Leonardo Cossari

A curious adventurer living la dolce vita, creating insightful stories as a freelance writer, content creator, and printmaker, guiding you through the exquisite world of fine food, wine, art, and all things Italian.