As the summer tourists depart, the locals change gear and move into Autumn harvest mode. The olive groves hum with the sound of abbacchiatore's as plump olives are felled, winemakers refine their blends and the sweet smell of woodsmoke fills the air as the summers trimmings are sent heavenward from spiralling fires. With the breathtaking changing landscape, seasonal traditions, and special dedication to those who have passed away, this time of year in Umbria is a kaleidoscope of delight and wonder.