ITALY’S DAYS OF THE DEAD

Journey into the Realm of remembrance.

As the summer wanderers bid farewell to Italy, the locals gracefully shift their focus to the enchanting rhythm of the autumn harvest. The olive groves resonate with the gentle hum of abbacchiatori as plump olives cascade from their branches, while winemakers artfully refine their blends. The air becomes infused with the sweet scent of woodsmoke, as remnants of summer are sent skyward from spiraling fires. With the breathtaking transformation of the landscape, harvest traditions flourish, and a heartfelt dedication to those who have departed fills the season with a kaleidoscope of delight and wonder. To uncover more of what this magical season holds, delve into my article, AUTUMN MAGIC IN CITTA DELLA PIEVE.

Yet, this time of year offers more than just bountiful harvests and joyous celebrations, for on November 1st and 2nd, the sacred days of ‘All Saints Day and All Souls’ Day’ are honored. Join me as I traverse the unique events that blossom across Italy, commemorating this special time of remembrance and reflection, where ancestral customs and traditional symbols come alive through delectable food and captivating rituals.

THE origin story

The origins of honoring the departed twinkle through the annals of the Middle Ages, and perhaps even further back in time. Halloween, All Saints’ Day, and All Souls’ Day are thought to be born from the ancient festival of Samhain, cherished by the Celtic peoples of old. During this sacred Samhain, radiant bonfires danced in the night, crafting a mystical gateway for ancestral spirits to traverse into our world. A delightful tradition of this festival was the vibrant art of mumming, where eager bands of amateur performers journeyed from home to home, captivating onlookers with their enchanting displays in exchange for sumptuous food and drink. These spirited showcases added an extra layer of warmth and joy to the celebration of life and the beyond.

In the ancient days of yore, as the crisp autumn air chased away the last whispers of summer, the nights beckoned with tales of the supernatural. Our ancestors embraced the timeless custom of baking soul cakes—delicate treats reminiscent of shortbread biscuits. These sweet offerings were lovingly shared with “soulers,” often children and those in need. As they wandered from door to door, these souls sang poignant songs and offered prayers for the departed. Over time, this sacred observance intertwined with the Christian festivity of All Saints’ Day, also known as All Hallows’ Day, celebrated on November 1st. Thus, the eve before this holy day, October 31st, blossomed into its own enchanting identity as Halloween, forever captivating the hearts of young and old alike with its mystical allure.

All saints day / ognissanti

On the first of November, Italians unite to celebrate a momentous occasion—the Feast of All Saints, or All Saints’ Day. This day resonates with reverence, passion, and joy as people honour the saints who embody the very essence of faith and devotion. It is also a time to pay tribute to those who carry names inspired by these revered figures. Families across Italy exchange heartfelt gifts, symbols of love and remembrance, as we commemorate this extraordinary day. Each region infuses its own unique flair into the festivities, crafting an experience that is both deeply personal and rich in local cultural heritage.

Allow me to guide you through a mesmerizing exploration of the most extraordinary, eccentric, and delightful customs found in various regions. Together, we’ll delve into the captivating tapestry of traditions that enrich our world with diversity and enchantment.

In cities like Naples and Palermo, traditions come to life in splendid ways. Streets shimmer with radiant lights, melodious sounds fill the air, and magnificent processions unfold to honour the saints while celebrating the joy of life. People gather in awe to witness the brilliance of fireworks displays and to savour the unique culinary delights of the occasion, such as zeppole and cassate.

Meanwhile, visitors to Puglia will encounter the tradition of “cocce priatorje”—intricately carved pumpkins aglow with flickering candles. These ghostly lanterns line the cobblestone streets, casting an enchanting glow upon passersby. Each pumpkin, adorned with a unique visage, whispers its own tale through the dance of candlelight, accompanied by the mesmerizing bonfires of broom branches known as “Fuoc acost.”

In the charming village of Bormio, Lombardy, pumpkin festivities unfold in a truly remarkable fashion! Here, locals eschew the customary carving, opting instead to fill these vibrant orbs with the nectar of the gods—wine! A delightful fusion of autumnal splendour and indulgence, offering a taste of the season in every sip.

Now, let me whisk you away to Venice, where imagination takes flight with their exquisite “lumere” lanterns. Each intricately carved masterpiece serves as a portal to the whimsical world of Halloween, inviting us to marvel at their craftsmanship and vibrant glow. In Abruzzo, the little ones embark on a noble quest, traversing the streets with wide-eyed enthusiasm. Armed with kindness and innocent smiles, they seek gifts on behalf of the departed. The land of Friuli unveils a mesmerizing ritual, where illuminated buckets of water stand as beacons of hospitality. These humble offerings, accompanied by a loaf of bread, ensure refreshment for ethereal visitors, extending warmest invitations to partake in the earthly realm. In Trentino, reverence and celebration intertwine as tables adorned with unparalleled grandeur honour the spirits of the departed. The joyous tolling of church bells resonates through the night, summoning these ethereal guests, ensuring their journey from beyond is met with love and companionship. Ah, the realm of All Hallows’ Eve emanates a profound sense of wonder and unity, as traditions and rituals enliven our hearts with the timeless spirits of our ancestors.

In the verdant heart of Italy, a carnival and market known as “Fiera dei Morti” is held in Perugia in honour of the dead. This event, steeped in history, is considered the most significant fair of the year, tracing its roots back to medieval times when it was called the “All Saints Fair.” This vibrant gathering takes place during the religious holiday, amidst a rich calendar of fairs and markets in Umbria during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

The spirit of the event has endured, transforming it into a time of merriment and shopping. It serves as a haven for novelty and curiosity, a place to wander carefree, immersed in the aromas and colours of a festive atmosphere. Each year in Pian di Massiano, the Piazzale Umbria Jazz welcomes over 500 exhibitors for five days in November. Visitors can explore a diverse array of products, from personal and household items to herbal remedies, hardware, car accessories, toys, crafts, agricultural goods, and delectable food. Local specialties such as cured meats, torta al testo, sandwiches, crepes, and roasted chestnuts tantalize the senses. Alongside this lively marketplace, captivating street performances, jugglers, and impromptu shows enchant all who attend.

Another delightful Umbrian autumn spectacle awaits at the Pumpkin Patch just outside Spoleto, where everything pumpkin-related can be found: haystack mazes, fun activities for young and old, and much more.

All souls day / Day of the dead

The morrow, November 2nd, heralds the vibrant celebration of the Day of the Dead, a sacred occasion devoted to honoring those who have journeyed beyond. This day invites us to the hallowed grounds of the cemetery, yet its essence stretches far beyond mere remembrance. Rich in ancestral heritage, it intertwines with ancient pagan beliefs that embrace the return of the departed to the realm of the living, emphasizing the importance of offering them sustenance after their arduous voyage.

The Festival of the Dead becomes a moment for the souls to “awaken.” Rooted in the time-honored practices of various Indo-European cultures, this day transforms into a jubilant celebration. It is not merely a time of recollection but a heartfelt reverence for those who have transitioned. Gathered in the warmth of family, the day bursts forth with traditional dishes, merriment, gifts, and cherished moments shared with loved ones.

Undoubtedly, on the Day of the Dead, a transcendent bond is woven between the living and the departed, a connection that defies the boundaries of life and death. It serves as a poignant reminder to honor those who have gone, to keep their memories aglow, and to find solace in the belief that, if only for a fleeting moment, our beloved ones return to partake in our lives once more. It is a kaleidoscope of vibrant love and deep respect, inspiring reflection on life and mortality while embracing the rich tapestry of our ancestral traditions.

Food for REMEMBRANCE

Italy doesn’t celebrate anything without food, and these two days of remembrance are no exception. From time-honoured dishes steeped in history to delectable sweets that pay homage to the departed, the culinary delights of these days of remembrance add a delightful dimension to the tapestry of this enchanting celebration. So let’s dig in!

One of the most emblematic foods associated with All Saints Day is the “beans of the dead,” known as Fave dei Morti in Italian. These small, almond-shaped cookies pay homage to the departed by resembling the shape of a bean, symbolising the cycle of life and death. Made with almond flour, egg whites, sugar, and a hint of lemon zest, these delicate treats are often enjoyed alongside a glass of sweet wine, adding a touch of sweetness to the remembrance of loved ones.

Another delightful sweet treat is represented by the bone-shaped cookies called “Ossa di Morto“. Originating from the Parma area and popular in various regions of Italy, these cookies offer a pleasant reminder of life’s transience. Made with a base of shortcrust pastry covered in a delicate sugar or chocolate icing and adorned with almonds, these little delights invite you to savor each bite, while also prompting a greater appreciation for the fleeting nature of existence. Rest assured, their exquisite taste far surpasses their macabre name. Treat yourself to the experience of these flavors and let these memento mori serve as a gentle, albeit slightly eerie, reminder to seize every moment and cherish its preciousness.

In Umbria, the Stinchetti dei Morti, or “shins of the dead” cakes, hold significance as a way to commemorate the day and honour loved ones. Alternatively, a culinary treasure hailing from Milan and Tuscany is the famous Pane dei morti, or “bread of the dead.” This dense, spicy bread is traditionally made with ingredients like nuts, dried fruits, cocoa, coffee, and spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. The distinct aroma of this bread wafts through Italian households during All Souls’ Day, filling the air with warmth and nostalgia. Families often gather to bake and share this bread, creating a sense of togetherness and remembrance through this ancient tradition.

A typical Piedmontese preparation is the Cisra-“chickpea soup,” enriched and flavoured with pork ribs. It is also known as Minestra dei morti. Some prefer to accompany it with cotechino or pumpkin. It is not uncommon on such occasions to leave an extra dish on the table to satiate the souls of the visiting deceased. Sicilian sugar puppets and Sardinian “papassini” delight the younger ones. Both are traditionally presented to children, with the tale that they are gifts from the souls of the departed.

In the northern region of Puglia, Colva is prepared, a captivating mixture of softened wheat grains, pomegranate seeds, crushed nuts, vincotto, chocolate, and sugar takes center stage. This delightful concoction signifies the intricate fusion of flavors, embodying the meticulous attention to detail poured into the creation of culinary offerings.

No celebration in Italy is complete without the presence of pasta, and All Saints Day is no exception. Families come together to enjoy a comforting bowl of pasta al forno, a baked pasta dish layered with rich tomato sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan cheese, and sometimes meat such as sausage or ground beef. The flavours meld together, creating a hearty and filling dish that brings comfort and nourishment during this time of remembrance.

If you ever find yourself fortunate enough to experience the extraordinary celebrations of All Souls’ Day in Italy, you can anticipate embarking on a deeply moving and memorable journey as this day offers a remarkable blend of culinary delights and heartfelt tributes.

Visiting the Dead and Italian Cemeteries

A pilgrimage to an Italian cemetery on All Souls’ Day transcends mere remembrance; it weaves a tapestry of history and spirituality that resonates deeply. These sacred grounds stand apart from those in Australia or North America, inviting comparisons to the vibrant cemeteries of New Orleans. Here, the departed find solace in funeral niches, nestled alongside one another, their resting places often adorned with exquisite ceramic plates bearing their likenesses. Those of greater fortune may dwell in small private structures where families can gather, while grand multi-story edifices offer communal repose. By daylight, these hallowed spaces blossom with the splendor of gardens, trees, and fountains, reminiscent of the illustrious San Miniato cemetery in Florence.

Families converge in reverent unity, honoring their cherished ones with fresh blooms, flickering candles, and even sharing a meal amidst the serenity.

flowers FOR REMEMBRANCE

The humble chrysanthemum, a cherished bloom among Italians, finds its sacred place in cemeteries, gracing the paths of remembrance as the holiday approaches. Revered as a symbol of love and remembrance, these luminous flowers, known as “golden flowers” in ancient Greece, carry deep significance across cultures. Universally celebrated as harbingers of prosperity, joy, and goodwill, they inspire awe wherever their splendid petals unfold.

Moreover, the intricate petals of chrysanthemums weave a deeper narrative within the magical tapestry of All Souls’ Day. Each petal signifies a life lived, a memory treasured, or a moment shared. As we stroll through the hallowed rows of graves adorned with these exquisite blooms, we are gently reminded of the myriad stories and experiences that form the fabric of existence. More than mere symbols of loss and mourning, chrysanthemums embody the vibrant celebration of life itself. Their autumnal bloom, as leaves drift and days wane, stands as a testament to nature’s resilience, revealing beauty even amidst decay. It whispers a poignant reminder: life is a precious gift to be cherished, even in the shadow of mortality.

FINAL THOUGHTS

As I delved into the enchanting traditions of All Souls’ and All Saints’ Day celebrations in Italy, a wave of profound empathy washed over me for the emotions they evoke within our hearts. These sacred festivities, intricately woven with the customs of Ognissanti, beckon us to honor our dearly departed, keeping their memories alive in our thoughts and spirits. Amidst the ethereal glow of cemeteries and the delicate symbolism of chrysanthemums, we are gently reminded of the incredible power of remembrance and the lasting influence our loved ones have imprinted upon our lives. While my personal ties to this occasion may not run deeply, I wholeheartedly resonate with the intricate tapestry of emotions it stirs. The ache of loss lingers long after our beloved ones have taken their leave, and the act of honoring them unveils a beautiful mosaic of shared experiences and cherished memories. Through this recognition and the tender acknowledgment of our own mortality, we discover solace and renewal. May we each traverse our individual paths of grief and remembrance with compassion, offering support to one another and finding comfort in the everlasting love that knows no bounds.