Italy’s third-biggest city – the loud, cosmopolitan metropolis of Naples – is made up of a patchwork of neighbourhoods that puts ornate mansions beside gritty street art, and ancient churches next to bohemian drinking holes. The allure of this storied seaside city — the Baroque excess, the indulgent cuisine, the mesmerizing fugue state of it all — now beckons as it did in the city’s Grand Tour days.